STATUS

All the embedded photos are with photobucket, due to a recent owner change they have decided to charge for hosting (399 usd a year) if you use CHROME this work around will allow you to view allthe missing images. https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-embed-fix/naolkcpnnlofnnghnmfegnfnflicjjgj?hl=en https://github.com/kzahel/photobucket-embed-fix

ill fix this up when i get time, photobucket has sold out and wants drug money to host so every pic is missing.

yeah listen to the guys its too big for your needs.

if your looking to go 3582 later, go to a map based ecu now or make sure the afm is in the cold side of the piping to make it easier later on..

sorry i binned all my old gear a few years back.

dont go 8cm, we did back to back 8cm and 10cm on a t67 on 2.5 and found the 8cm just choked it, its posted on here somewhere or on our facebook page.

greddy radiator, new clutch hub and std fan, 45min sessions at winton non stop no issues @ 370rwkw on std engine in 35c heat. has 115mm greddy intercooler in front of it as well.

i have back to backs with 320rwkw greddy and plazmaman vs std and in both cases there was very little difference and there was zero difference between std throttle and q45 on the greddy at 350rwkw. That said the extra accessibility was worth it on both cars as they see lots of track work.

well based on the quality of the other products they produce why would the ignitor be any different?

haha but an awesome wifi printer for quick screen grabs for customers

Yellow Jackets are junk, dont waste your money.. i dyno engines all day every day and in the short time (5+years) yellow jackets have been around they account for more ignition troubles on the dyno than all the others combined..

its closer to 10% difference between din and SAEJ1349, a 9 sec pull on a dynapack in the correct setting should put you within 5% of a new DD (or dynotech in shootout) and MAINLINE. It starts to deviate when we use longer pulls as this long hard slow ramp rate (16-18 sec) usually results in wheelspin on the DD we used. either way as long as the same rating was used for each visit its fine. Back on topic i love WMI but love E85 more and on top of that again i like bp98 on primaries and methanol on secondaries... all the economy with all the power

Having to tune every ecu lyf

among 1000s of others like crank degrees to ms etc... but its a 2sec reference here instead of trolling through pages of spreadsheets

dont bother with r34 turbo they are still useless and prone to failure. Save up and steel wheel what you have.

T67-25g Greddy turbo kit. 850cc BLITZ injectors Greddy intake plenum ( tested stock vs the current q45 throttle and found no diff in power) 115mm greddy R-spec intercooler Greddy race radiator Greddy Header tank Trust Titanium exhaust GREDDY heat range 9 pro plugs (use denso IK01-24 now as the greddy are impossibly expensive even in NGK format) PowerFC (soon to be emtron KV8) Car also now has TOPSTAGE carbon front diffuser and Rear wing. This car will lap winton or phillip island non stop without getting hot or having any IAT issues, we did a 30 lap test session with JT and our VK twin turbo LS1 to check endurance.

Lol had to use my own reference thread today lol.

Im at a loss why a shop is still using DIN (1976 rating) that dyno should be set to SAE J1349 which is the latest correction method. Using DIN is one if the reasons hub dynos get hit with a higher reading stigma.

this still makes me giggle 5 years later

Never had this issue in 7 years.

yeah im back friday so i will forward something through

if pfc hand controller is at 15degrees put timing light on coil 1 (dont use loop at rear unless you are confident of the offset) and set cas so that the timing light and hand controller read the same.

yeah 10s would be pretty easy.

HAKON also spot on.

seven automotive, brand new machine, can do even the lowest racecars with all bars on. Shaun and Scott have been doing it for years but they have gone out on their own. https://www.facebook.com/SevenAutomotive/