someonestolecc

That sucks man hope you get it back. Post up pics and serial #'s ..

Who's the owner now narkie is it him or you or some sponsor? Wanna swap ? O_o

Where's the pic?

I have 2 plugs near my O2 sensor. One or both of which may or may not lead back to the ECU. Anyways, other than using a multimeter, which I don't have. Is there a way to tell which one is actually the right plug, so I can get rid of the other. I've had both of them plugged inone at a time on the dyno and it didn't make any difference. Thanks.

Just wondering if I was to go to Yokohama where could I find me some cefiro parts? I don't mean mod-up parts but just interior parts etc things like that. Is there a chain of places or can you just mail order them somewhere? I don't want to be running through yards doing pick me own. Thanks.

In your control panels under your profile - the first part custom name or something. The new board doesn't look as nice as the old and I prefer the old layout but Prank has outlined his reasons on another post and they sound solid. Either way the usebase is here and that's what counts.. as long as we keep all the smilies

Just mark out where it will go and cut slits so that the carpet doesn't have a chunk taken out of it but rather a slit so the bar can go through then the carpet part can kinda sit back on top of it. Hope that makes sense Good luck.

If you're having dead spots on gear changes do you have a plumback BOV or atmo? Mine was doing that when I had mine atmo because it would be getting too rich. Plumb it back and try then. Otherwise it might be set too tight or you have no BOV. When my BOV was too tight (i.e. pretty much like not having any BOV) my car would stutter as the turbo shat itself, almost like a surging.

I recently fitted an aftermarket BOV which is yet to be plumbed back. Prior to this my OEM s15 re-circ valve used to flutter when I was on full noise. My aftermarket bov - anything under 0.5 bar I hear flutter. Anything 0.6-0.7 bar it will blow off. My question is - what is "correctly" setup. Should I set it up so the BOV vents lower than 0.5 bar?

GPS will get coverage anywhere so long as you have line of sight to 3 civilian GPS satellites. GSM coverage as long as you're in range of the mobile phone tower of your network. You're thinking of quiktrak and limited coverage, as the GPS/GSM combination gives the greatest actual coverage. It's just underground that might fail it, whereas the radio frequency that QT uses may work. Trade-offs everywhere

Good suggestion I may look into it, but not everyone has 300rwkw so it's not a proven ceffy issue C'mon guys the only article up there is too_much's article. Anyone got any articles?

I smell an article for cefiroz

Far out that's where I go to uni sometimes.. I see that white one too parked outside the IT building. That's dodgy as, I always thought the places around there would be ok... especially quay street too, seeming it looks like a street with lots of cameras on it.

Don't think so. I got r33 muffler and welded on yesterday. Had to change all the mounts and cut off the actual bend of the pipe and that's just the muffler. The exhaust I think daveo is right - ceffy exhausts are pretty straight, skyline ones are rather bendy.

Capitalisation means little, it is J-English afterall. I know it's probably as S-Kid has summed up but I'll stick to saying gredy and grex

I think the clutch fan uses the clutch to vary it's speed so that's not quite true. I use twin fans with an unknown shroud. One of the fans is busted and doesn't work and it still cools my water temp to about 80 degrees (sr20) so the twins are good even one... it even spins my air condensor fan on the other side of the radiator! I have a manual switch that turns it on and off however jaycar have a temp sensor kit thing that lets you turn it on at say 85 degrees and turn it off at 80 degrees (I forgot what that particular ranging is called). I'm currently looking for a replacement fan though but I think the jaycar kit is the cheap and safe way to go.

GTS with bits on it that make it look like a fast car = beh :ak47:

replicate has HD in his ceffy. should give him a PM to see which type and rebound rates. His car has very little travel however so you'd probably not want his rebound rates

Still wanna know what those things on the bonnets are for.

Cheaper and less headaches to get a GTR.

D2 aren't J-brand. I've got teins I'd go them again my ride is great and they're hard when required. No probs so far and I would assume they live a very very sedate life since I've owned the car to before. Best handling cefiro I was in had JICs. Don't know what type either of em.

I too would like to know about ELF excellium. I saw it up at the local oil n filter garage and they had Beau Yates' drift australia rexxie there as a promo. The rep reckoned it's the same level as motul 8100 but $10 cheaper. To be honost I'm not fussed about saving $10 on an oil change cos it's the stuff keeping my engine alive. On the other hand if ELF is better or the same as motul and they're likely to stay easily available and a reliable supply I'll make the switch as I'm keen on ELF's racing heritage (although that's probably got no impact on the oil I'm getting but hey it makes me feel fuzzy). Any thoughts anyone? A bottle of oil is 5L - you won't need more than that. To get it right just use the dipstick

*boggle* Thanks for the pic - I can't imagine how that would work. It looks expensive. Do you know of a supplier so i can start hunting around? I will put it on my list of parts I need. I will try for more camber for now.. Seems like the cheaper options in the interim.

If you do 500 laps and get better you've become a good driver... Practice practice practice

I think Bee-R is Korean