Beer Baron

the V8Super car games on playstation 2 etc have eastern creek in it. you'll pick it up pretty quick though anyway once you get there.

lol, I'll bet you are!! the set of RGs would have helped sweeten the deal too!

lol, don't make me blush! there are lots of guys as smart or smarter than me on this forum. I am just a frustrated mechanic whose spent far too many years toying with peoples race cars. having lived and breathed working on and driving race cars for the last 15 years I would hope I'd learnt something!!! we are lucky that there are lots of very capable, logical guys on here (like your good self!) who are willing to share their knowledge, ideas, and experience with everyone.

ok, well 600hp is getting pretty serious and as we all know power generates heat so it's understandable that you need some decent cooling. is it a GTR? Greddy intercoolers are pretty decent with air flowing through the core to the radiator. do you still have the A/C core between the intercooler and radiator? if so it's probably time to remove that one. the only time I've seen people have trouble with air flow through good coolers like greddy ones are when they are too thick (using a drag cooler on a track car) for the application. how thick is the core? you don't need a super thick intercooler on a circuit car as they get lots of clean air through them as long as the bumper is fairly decent. for 32 GTRs you can get an insert which bridges the side gaps between the bumper opening and the intercooler effectively sealing the cooler to the bumper and thus forcing the air through the cooler core, it's a good idea. so is ducting air from the intercooler to the radiator. air will always take the path of least resistance so without sides forcing the air through the cores most of the air just hits it then flows around the gaps on the sides with not much actually making it all the way through and on to the next core. the greddy radiators are not bad, but I would still do the test with the factory radiator and if possible the factory clutch fan and shroud. it is not too hard to change and doesn't cost you anything to try (providing you still have the old bits of course!). with the oil cooler where is it mounted? actually just reading up above you said you removed left indicator to get more airflow to it. so I guess it's mounted on the side? some ducting around it will really help too, and you need to have an exit path for the air so that once it's through the core it can escape so some kind of vent into the wheel well is generally the way to go (either hole saw some vent holes in the plastic guard liner or cut out a big hole and install a louvred vent). always try the cheap fixes first like the ducting etc and see how you go. the other problem we have with radiators and intercoolers etc is a lack of exit path for their air flow too. if you have big power and are generating a lot of heat it may be time to look at a bonnet that has an extraction vent to allow air to flow through the cores and then up and out through the bonnet.

in my experience with a porsche cup car the michelein slicks are much better than the dunlops. we always run the micheleins but one or two events had the dunlops as the category tyre so we had to use them and were about a second off the pace on them.

yep, couldn't agree more. drove a V8 M3 and loved the sound but that was about it. after the 35 it felt soft in suspension and slow. felt like about half the power of a 35...

lol, that pricing is way off. add to that the fact that you cannot really import one any more. you can only import BRAND NEW pre-09 models purchased from a dealer. it will be very hard to find such a car. and if you do buy it for say $100K, don't forget to add 5% duty, 10% GST, 25% LCT on the portion over $57K, shipping, compliance (if you can get it, and it's around $10K), rego etc. I would say you are looking at over $160K if you were to import one now and like I said it's close to impossible. The only real options now are to buy JDM one that is already here. or a used ADM one, or a new ADM one. importing a super cheap one from japan is really not an option. I would probably go for a near new ADM or JDM, or hold out for the update model.

lol, reading that press release once statement stuck out at me. " While the presence of bowsers dispensing E85 has been advised in some states, consistent availability to the public has not been confirmed. Suppliers who may comply with this requirement should contact ANDRA." what a crock. consistent availability to the public has not been confirmed my hairy arse. United servo just near the anzac bridge (victoria rd rozelle) has been selling it 'consistently' for over a year now. any member of the public can walk in there and buy some if they so chose, just like they can at the other sevos that sell it. And if this was as they say "no confirmed" then why didn't they just call up and ask??? I'm sure united would be able to confirm that they retail E85 through a number of their aus-wide servos to any member of the public that wants to buy it. they couldn't lie straight in bed....

raise that budget to about $300-$350 and you will actually get something worth having on your car and installed properly. for $100-$150 I wouldn't bother. may as well put that money on number 3 in race number 7 at caufield..... at least if you win then you can afford an alarm. seriously, $100 is like 1 weeks worth of fuel. catch the bus/train/lifts for 2 weeks or so then you have your alarm money.

V12 is a winner for sure. just don't think about the iridium spark plug bill on that bad boy! lol. only 3 times your current donk and probably as much as a BP engine rebuild.

yep, my advice would be definitely go back to the standard rad for a meet. I've seen a lot of problems solved this way and unless you have done major stuff to fit the new rad it's usually an easy thing to change (20min tops). what type of radiator is it. i have seen lots of guys come undone with the current flavour of the month cheap, thick, chinese made alloy radiators. they usually do a much worse job than a standard rad and standard fan and shroud set-up. radiator upgrade is one of the last things you need and usually only on very serious track cars. the reason people get problems in general with water temp is because they fit a big, thick, cheap intercooler and it blocks all the good air to the radiator. a good, but not too thick intercooler (like ARC etc) coupled with the standard radiator and a nicely mounted oil cooler is usually enough for most moderately powered track cars. only once you get up over about 500hp do you generally need to get more serious than that.

not sure if the HPE are coming or not? but you're right if they are in they will be at or near the front. there are some other serious cars to contend with though too. not least of course mark in the 34 and I will do my best to help Russ in the 32 show everyone that the old POS can still do it! oh and that the car is good too... lol. lots of changes to the 32 means it will almost certainly gone quicker than it has before at EC. much quicker.

in all seriousness you are welcome to drive it if you want. would be good fun in clubsprint class. got some little improvements for it too. swapped out no name intercooler for new trust kit. about to put in some greddy cams and a re-tune too. and MORE BOOST!

yeah I've never had problems running A048s (medium compound) on the dyno with the same power as badhairdave. and they are R-comps so of course softer than any S-comp.

I honestly can't remember exactly but yeah around 1.37 is about right. It has some more time in it yet though, we still had a few problems that day and on top of solving those little issues there is also some improvements coming. Yeah I also heard that garth had done a 1.36 or something in the evo but it was third hand info, and when I asked the bloke when we were there he said they'd done a low 40 I think (maybe a 42?), I have a feeling the guy telling us that garth did a 36 had the evo time mixed up with a radical he was driving for his work with them. Depending on which model and spec his times in various radicals go all the way down to the low 30s at EC from memory but I don't think he got into the 30s with the EVO. Could be wrong though, it's certainly was very quick. But anyway I also heard that they apparently aren't running that car at SL this year or possibly not running it any more at all? yeah, 1.37 was right. back in august last year. http://www.natsoft.com.au/cgi-bin/results....08/2009.ARDC.S1

that's not corporate hill ya goose. corporate hill is the one in the middle of the track in between turns 7/8/9. the hill your thinking of is just 'the hill'. you're right though it's good viewing, just don't fall into the massive wheel tracks left by some clown doing donuts up there....

great little table. yeah I won't go less than 4.0 in a car that is street/track. I use chrono 300v in my street/track cars as it's still viscous enough at lower temps to give good lubrication but does not get too thin at high temp and has a good film strength and anti-shear. for a full on track car I'd probably go to the 300v comp as low temp viscosity is not such a concern and it has better film strength and a more suitable high temp viscosity. and the other advice was sound too. water wetter can help with a few degrees of temp. not a bad idea for some extra insurance.

fck me dead troy! that is some nasty power mate!!! bags a go.....

lol, the baron is bloody useless! no, that's not true, I'm good for some criticism. happy to tell everyone how and what they are doing wrong. got my phone back now so give me a call. I can start with you johnny. who knows I may even drive again this year.

Sierra Sierra is coming from the states (and they will be quick) don't think any UK cars are coming. we would love to have had the M-speed GTR here and tried. there are a few good japanese cars coming, and yes there will be some other serious GTRs there. The "old" Hi-octane GTR (the black 32) should be back with a few mods since last time it was there. some pretty tasty mods at that. and like marlin said Mark is working away on the 34 so that it should be quicker too (don't forget it's already well into the 1 minute 30 second range at EC!!). It's going to be a great event.

yeah I had to laugh at their description of how versitile and useful it is. what the fark else could you use it for? where else do you need a couple hundred metres of garages in a row with doors on both sides with useless empty rooms on top? which as you point out is built on a downhill slope... and yeah the gate ticket window is a joke. must be about $10 worth of raw material and looks like blind freddies less able cousin put it together..... in 1938... I would think $1 is pretty fair price for it. in fact pretty much everything they have is crap. About the only thing I'd want is the shell sign and would pay about $10 max for that one.

yeah agree on that point. and yeah there are still lots of good smart guys in aus who share stuff too. but just in general aus workshops play things much closer to the chest and don't want to give away hard earned knowledge/tricks etc. which is fair enough. it seems in the US their desire to show how smart they are overtakes the desire to keeps things secret! which is good.

I find tuned easier to 'drive' but you're right it seems easier to get a better ranking on normal as I think most guys prefer tuned and spend most time on that.

it's pretty unlikely they would deny your claim for illegal reo trimming, or boost controller etc unless[/i] they contributed to the severity of, or caused the accident. for example if your car sustained engine damage due to the modified reo they may argue that your illegal modification of that deformable crash structure means that they are only liable for a reduced payout or even able to deny the claim. in the case of a boost controller I can't think of any circumstance where they could argue it caused or contributed to a crash. for them to be able to deny a claim for illegal or un-roadworthy modifications it generally needs to be shown that those modifications where either not known to them (you must tell them about all mods so they can properly do a risk assessment and calculate your premium correctly) or that the modifications/road worthy issue caused or contributed to the severity of the crash. providing you tell your insurer about all your mods, and the mods did not contribute to your crash then you should be fine regardless of whether or not they are considered road legal or EPA legal etc, but the only real place you should be asking this question is your insurer. ask them what the deal is so you know for sure.

care to share this secret "heavy weighted reason" and the "second minor reason" as to why his cars unroadworthiness being the cause of the accident is not a factor? also, I think you mean moot not mute. they are 2 completely different words. you still have not explained why you think his claim will be paid. apart from your secret heavy weighted reason whatever that is...