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Beer Baron

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Everything posted by Beer Baron

  1. out of interest what sort of price range is an 07 model R32 worth? and what's the same year GTI worth?
  2. yep, as far as I know ALL R35 GTRs have this "feature" as part of it's pedestrian safety gear. anyway you'd be mad not to have comprehensive insurance on an R35 and of course if something happens insurance will cover the replacement cost.
  3. that logic is all good but I'm lead to believe they are more like $185K new right now, not $165K... so you're about $20K out on the 'quoted' new price.
  4. if you are central or nth try envy imports in brookvale. they do work a bit with haltechs and have a very nice set-up and a good tuner.
  5. lol, i wouldn't say 'it's proven walbro work'. in fact I'd say it's proven that they have a very high failure rate in turbo applications. they are a rubbish pump suitable for the tight arse only. I have seen enough of them fail with my own eyes to know that I would never buy one. you reckon tomei and nismo pumps fail but how many failures have you seen or even heard of? I cannot think of one nismo pump failure and I've personally bought over 20 of them, and know of dozens more that have been running for years. Yes they will fail eventually. All pumps can wear and fail, but most good ones last at least 5 years. I've seen a ridiculously high walbro failure rate. Of the installations I know of I'd say it's about 30% failure within a year. yours might be running fine, but you need to accept that they are a rubbish pump and having one in your car is a risk.
  6. agreed! GT40 replica is THE kit car to build. about the only thing that will burn your money quicker than modifying a GTR too... http://www.roaringforties.com.au/
  7. cool pics mate.
  8. yeah all I saw was a burnout and a 12.7? must be a secret vid!
  9. last time I bought a set of brand new TE37s in 18 I think they were around $3500 which I think is pretty fair considering the stupid money people ask for them used sometimes. plus by buying new you can chose pretty much any colour under the sun. size and offset, i'll check on. we were using some 19s on russ's 35 last time I drove it at oran park and they were a good size, but obviously far bigger rubber choice in 18s.
  10. well for starters you would have to cut the car in half... plus you would never be able to comply it. and never be able to register it.
  11. me personally I've always liked genuine nissan filters, but for any of my really tuned cars I use jap ones, mostly Greddy, but also like the sard mag filter and the nismo filters are not bad either. never tried drift ones, but with the ones I've used I never have problems with oil pressure coming up nice and fast.
  12. all I'll say is that it looks like good value for $20K, but to my knowledge you need to supply them an engine first for them to strip and rebuild, so if you don't have one you'll need to check with RHD how they get around that? do you have to buy a new stock crate motor to deliver to tomei? or can you just buy a used junker and give them that etc? if it really and truly is $20K for the full motor from rocker covers to sump (and everything in between!) delivered to your door in aus with nothing else to pay for, then it's a very fair price and a good way to go.
  13. just to clear up some stuff about the doors. yes the early model R32 (both GTR and GTST) do not have side intrusion bars in them from the factory. HOWEVER most of the cars that have been imported would have had the intrusion bars fitted during compliance (which them makes them just as heavy give or take than the late model doors). BUT, early model doors with aftermarket intrusion bars fitted CAN have the bars removed (they are usually riveted and welded in place). the early doors are 89,90 and part of 91. late model intrusion bar doors start during 91 and of course run to 94. the late model doors it's nearly impossible to remove the intrusion bar from. it's not really a bar at all. more of a giant plate of steel. and it's heavy as fark. the only option really is importing a set of early model doors from japan (so you can be sure they haven't had intrusion bars added). i'd say about 80% of the early model cars in aus were complied properly and have had the aftermarket intrusion bars added to them. to sum up: if you have late model doors: forget about removing the intrusion bars. if you have early model doors check if you have or don't have aftermarket bars in there. if you do have them they 'can' be removed but it's still not necessarily easy depending on which bar kit was used, and how they were installed. you also need to consider the safety aspect. the intrusion bars were introduced for a reason. and they were retrofitted during compliance for a reason too. it's to stop you from getting turned into a vegetable if you are unfortunate enough to get t-boned. if you have an extensive cage that has side impact protection then it's not such a concern, but if you have no cage, or a basic cage without proper side intrusion protection then I personally would leave the bars where they are.
  14. sexual chocolate!
  15. honestly I would probably rate the old a048s over the 888s with one downside that the a048 does go off after fewer heat cycles, but it's outright pace is better than the 888. the new A050 is miles better though.
  16. yes I have driven both. and i've owned an R35 and imported 2 others. as my post said, I thought the R8 was an awesome car, but performance and value wise the GTR has it beat. I didn't mention any other criteria. I didn't say one was a better road car than the other. read what I said. R8 is gorgeous, nicely made, awesome car BUT no where near the performance of the 35... leave it up to the individual to decide which car they like more.
  17. the best way is the one that gives you the lowest number on the lap timer. I don't know what it is yet but when I find it I'll let you all know too. actually fk that. I'm keeping it to myself....
  18. purely because you often find with a thicker than stock head gasket you loose some low/mid range. only because of the drop in static C/R. but if it's standard forget that then. look to the tune, and as others suggested make sure the cams are set and timed properly. could also just be the dyno... does it actually 'feel' lacking in midrange? maybe run it down the drag strip and see what kind of time and mph it runs, or even just run it up for a power run on someone else's dyno and see what you get.
  19. you can make any engine produce more power than another given enough money. I mean honda made 1.5l F1 engines that made well over 1000hp out of their puny capacity. mod for mod an R35 is always going to be ahead of the 32. it simply has more goodies to start with. for an all out drag car neither will be as good as most hardcore toranas out there. so that comparison is kind of useless.
  20. cutting out the bent rails and replacing is actually the best option and believe it or not you can actually buy those parts new from nissan! you can buy the new chassis rail pieces and take them and your car to a smash repair place and have the old bent rails cut out and the nice new rails welded in place. best bet is to go into a smash repair you trust and ask them what method they'd prefer. the new rail pieces were not that expensive. under $200 from memory.
  21. yeah I'm curious to know too.
  22. thanks mate. I am a great worker but a crap employee.
  23. my question is what kind of a name is jongbloed!!? they look nice but as LSX said check the calliper clearance as with a big flat centre like that can cause problems. they also end up being pretty pricey. for much less money than that you can get a set of brand new TE37s in suitable sizes which may not look all that fancy, but have pretty good calliper clearance, are very strong, are fairly light and are just all round a good wheel.
  24. I've sent you a pm too. My advice is don't choose a broker/importer/exporter based on price or promise of cheap cars. You want someone who is not afraid to search for you for a few months if need be, and someone who is not afraid to inspect and reject a few cars before finding the mint condition one you're after. in return you'll need a realistic budget in order to win that special car when it does come up and apart from that just some patience! Good luck with the hunt. With the right advice you will be able to get something really special.
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