Beer Baron

there are a few ways I've seen it done but basically you want a frame underneath the boot that transfers the load from the wing down to the boot floor/chassis rails. it's easier if you have a removable bootlid but can be done even with traditional hinged boot lid. a very good example is the Advan/RGM/Hi-octane R34. there should be pics somewhere of their set-up. but it's a bit hardcore for the average street/track car. generally it's a track only mod as it means your boot space is gone, and for it to be any use you'd need a pretty serious wing.

well if you find a good V spec or V spec II R32 that is reasonable money then there's no reason not to buy one. it's just that there is a 'badge premium' on them that is only really justified if you're a collector. they have different suspension (big deal it's probably old and fked), they have brembos (again, big deal, easy to upgrade from a 33 or even to something better like F40s etc), and a few other cosmetic differences (again easy to replicate), the only thing they have that is not easy to replicate is faster ATTESSA sampling rate but it's not a huge deal. I guess my point is, if you lined up 2 R32 GTRs. one is a very neat, non vspec 94 model, with log books and a genuine 80,000kms and one is a v spec of similar spec and condition I would have to seriously think about how much more I'd want to pay for the v-spec..... my personal answer is: not much. I certainly wouldn't exclude V-specs from your search as just like every car it is possible to find a good one for reasonable money, but I've found given there are lots more non-vspecs out there you have better chance of finding a quality, well looked after 32 that is not a vspec.

Hi guys, I usually have a couple of people who can help me with bits of translation as needed and I can read kana myself (albeit a bit slow atm) but I have a total kanji knowledge of about 10 characters so I'm a bit lost once there is any kanji in the equation. Below is a list of work I had done to a car of mine. It's a silver 94 model R32 GTR that I had work done to at Prime Garage in Japan. It had a Nur engine put in and various bits and pieces. I've had a few engines and 2 cars now built at prime and can't remember exactly what parts went in to it and really need a proper list. so if someone could please translate the copies of the invoices for me it would be much appreciated. it shouldn't be too hard as it's mostly katakana as of course most of the stuff is car parts etc. Domo Arigato Gozaimasu to anyone that can help me out.

I've got a small favour to ask. anyone in japan at the moment who is coming back to aus and would like to help me out and make a couple of bux, could you please buy me a carton of Mild Seven Super Lights (hard pack or soft pack either is fine)? it's easy to buy them at whatever airport you leave from (have to buy them at the departing jap airport as they don't have them at aus arrivals duty free). they cost 2,000 JPY duty free and I'll happily give you some reasonable AUD for your time. I'm a big mild seven fan but sadly they don't sell them in aus any more so I have to get them anyway I can!! Anyone who can help please send me a pm and I'll send you some $$ straight away. it can also be a good way to get rid of any yen that may be burning a whole in your pocket as you leave JP. PLS help the beer baron!! and enjoy your time in japan. arigato gozaimasu!!

honestly I would not bother with a 32 N1 or VII unless you want it as a museum piece. 32 N1s rarely come up but I see lots of 32 VIIs in shit condition and not worth buying. the ones that are original and in good condition cost decent $$$ and having paid that for it you'd be mad to put kms on it or modify it or 'enjoy' it in any way other than just looking at it and polishing it once a month. so if you want a 32 GTR to enjoy I'd seek out a low km, neat, good condition 93 or 94 model with owner history (pref even 1 owner car) and log books. that way it's not expensive enough to be a real collectible but it's still nice, neat and worth buying. and you can actually have some fun in it. as far as a car to drive and enjoy goes a 32 N1 or VII is not that special. there is nothing on them that can't be easily equalled (and bettered) with a few aftermarket parts etc. their value now is really only as a collection piece IF (and it's a big if) you an get one in original condition, and still in good nick and with supporting paperwork (owner history, log books etc) otherwise you are just paying too much money for an average condition 32 GTR that will be easily surpassed by a lightly modded neat 89 model. just my opinion, but paying big money for a 32 N1 these days doesn't make sense to me unless it's the 'extra' GTR that you keep just to admire.

so much for all the predictions that they'd be dirt cheap in 12 months time. it' now been 2 years since they were released in japan and the first grey import models were in motion and the cheapest one i saw on that carsales search above was a grey import model with 8,000kms on it and asking a whopping $145,499. not that much cheaper than you could have picked up a brand new import model for nearly 2 years ago with 50kms on it.....

great result Duncan and Kel! imagine what you could do with some grunt!!! time to buy a new radiator and wind up the wick....

looks good.

d'oh! that's why I had a missed call from berry. no full throttle eh??? hehe. probably scared a 10 year old skyline would lap quicker than the current super taxi's... good stuff. I can't believe they even let one of us crazy import loves get close to the big boys. well done mate.

sadly years of experience is no measure of honesty..... I know guys who've been in the business a long time. both brokers and exporters who are as bent as a 3 dollar bill.... and I'm sure there are guys who've been doing it 2 or 3 years who are smart, honest and switched on. it's a bit hit and miss but asking people who have dealt with people what they think is the only real way to find out short of buying a car from lots of different people and seeing who you like best...

I would say $1000-$1500 is about right. sure they are only a few hundred $$$ here but you need someone to buy one, (and they aren't going to run around for free) and have it shipped, pay whatever (if any) duties/taxes apply when it lands, have it cleared through customs and delivered to you. at the end of all that you may still end up with rubbish and then what? chase some bloke in australia who sold you an engine with no guarantees anyway? for a one off just pay the bloke in america selling them for $1000-$1500. at least you are dealing with someone local and you can hope that if they are going to the trouble of buying up RB30s in aus and shipping them out that they would have gotten some good ones so as not to waste their freight money etc. if you wanted 20 of them it may be worth trying to do it yourself but as a one off..... no way.

you would have to be nuts to bother with a grey euro anyway. imported used euros and the type of buyers for those cars just don't go together. they want warranty, and love from the local dealership. not some bloke a compliance plate. it definitely puts the kibosh on a little sideline for guys living in japan but apart from that it doesn't really affect anyone. it just denys us a few more special unique cars that have come in as PI's over the years. it's a bummer, but not the end of the world.

have slept with 32big boy and confirm he's an excellent lay and not much snoring at all. hook him up people.

josh where abouts are you? there are plenty of places in sydney that should be able to work with what you have, or start from scratch if that's what you want. unfortunately probably 80% of GTRs that are part time track cars have the rear straps put into the rear set belt points which as you say are not ideal due to the angle they create. even worse if you are using a stock type seat which will just snap in half. it's not so bad if you have a fixed seat that should offer more back protection. lots of people do use those points though mainly because it's easy, but also because being factory seat-belt mount points you know for certain they are strong enough for the purpose. a proper horizontal bar though will sort you out.

lol, yes indeed. the phones are cool and I like being able to use one to turn down the volume on the stereo etc. while I do like the sound the speakers make and the lossles transfer of music from CD to the beosound5 HD is cool I do think we'd be 90% as happy with the bose system or even a pieced together sonos based system. I guess the upside of the BO stuff will show in 30years time when the loudspeakers are still worth $$$ and still as good as anything else out. plus they do look a bit like the daleks from doctor who which I do enjoy...

god help me if we ever have a VW diesel engine in F1. I will stab out both my ear drums just to avoid having to hear it 'scream' it's way to 4,000rpm...

with the same sized tyre all round it shouldn't really cause any problems. they rears will probably have a slightly smaller diameter as the sidewall will be quite heavily stretched loosing a fair bit of it's height. this may be a problem, or may not. 235 wide tyres are really way too small for 10.5 inch rim. and on a 32 a 10.5 inch rim with a -9 offset is going to stick well outside the guards. my 18X10s with +18 sit just slightly outside but still clear ok on bump etc running 265/35 street tyres all round. my advice. don't do it. just run the same size wheels and tyres all round. it's the one way to ensure no problems with your GTRs AWD system and if gives you the benefit of being able to rotate rims/tyres from front to back easily to give them a longer life span.

lol, I have the same problem. been playing two player with my GF too and often end up getting each other killed, or accidentally hitting A at the wrong moment and ending up in a bubble only to watch the other die and we both have to start over. good fun though.

I don't think the RS models are compliable atm. I'm currently importing one as a rally car though.

god I am slack aren't I. yes I have taken some. will find where the hell I saved them too and post up. hoping I haven't lost them. I just upgraded my ihpone 3g to a 3gs and I hit restore and all the new pics I'd taken got overwritten with the back-up of the 3g! d'oh!

loving super mario brothers on the wii. good fun. almost as good as the original.... lol.

i need a PSP genius to come and work on mine. it's an original untouched V1.50 firmware version. and I never have upgraded. I was using devhook with some kind of version emulator to play 2.50 games etc. but then I got bored with it and haven't used it in ages. I want to use it again but don't want to loose my original V1.50 firmware. so who is the PSP guru out there???

that is weird. I've never heard of that happening. years ago when I first got my PS3 I just had it connected wirelessly to my home (unsecured) wireless network and it was a piece of piss. when I went to the new place in an apartment building in the city I naturally chose to secure my network with a WEP key and for some reason it took me a fair bit longer to get the PS3 to work with it (maybe 20 mins of stuffing around with settings) but never had it freeze up ever?

head looks good. same as mine basically. removed squish pads on one side. gives a compromise between response (you loose a little) but you can run more timing/boost with less detonation without them. looks very nicely done.

got a pulse and can read? then you too can join the fascinating world of the import broker. I've heard 1 in 3 people is an import broker.