Beer Baron

take a rad with you to the track. it's not hard to change. maybe 20 min job or so for someone awesome like you....

he crashed out on the warm up lap. you did your dough. no question about it. no way are they giving that money back. sorry but that's how it is. they are 100% in the right.

well it's pretty hard to diagnose this type of stuff over the net, but if I had to have a stab in the dark going off your description of events I would wager it's actually a fuel pump issue. ignition is easy to check if its missing at idle it's easy to identify which cylinder has the problem. a bit harder if it's only doing it at high rpm. this is one of those things you will just have to work through testing things till you find the problem. luckily for you the car only needs 3 things to run. fuel, air and spark so it's just a matter of working your way through.

type R is good for plumb back too. and it's easily adjustable (and can be ordered from the factory with a stiffer spring kit too) and it will flow as much as you will ever need (well pretty much). It's pretty much the only decent properly made BOV out there. there are some good mega drag 1200hp type ones but they are not really suitable for most of us. just looking at the trust one should tell you it's the one you want, it looks like a wastegate in it's design which is what you want. fast response, good sealing under boost and at idle, and able to quickly bypass large amounts of air.

I dunno. he is ok. certainly not the worst guy out there, but I don't think he's the best by a long shot. he had a lucky win and had the best car for 3 seasons. without the car he's been midfield just like the rest.

I would love to see kimi and token at big mac. I believe kimi would show him a thing or two. god I hope I'm right, I'd be devastated if kimi got spanked by token. that would see the poms and his head grow even larger and mean more token loving BS in the BBC commentary.

well with toyota gone I just pray trulli does NOT get a drive somewhere else. I'm sick of seeing him qually up the grid then hold up every car behind him with his lacklustre race pace. plus he's always heavy as fark so they can't get to leapfrog him in pit stops. agree on kobayashi. he's awesome. I hope he get's another crack next year somewhere.

well i have to pick up a scooter in this thing next week but after that I really want to sell this truck. sick of looking at it every time I go to my parents place! someone buy it and enjoy. I did take it on a big drive the other day (with a full load of furniture in the back) from chatswood to liverpool and it travelled fine on freeways (m5) etc. no trouble cruising on 110 even with the full load and no trouble getting up those hills in 5th even at lower speeds like 80 etc in the m5 tunnel. it's still running like clockwork and the AC was awesome (was about 30degrees that day!). it really is a great truck. someone make me an offer I can't refuse.

borrow a hand controller and you will be instantly be able to see what's happening. it could be your injectors hitting 100% duty at that point, or the AFM peaking at 5.115v or it could be knock. borrow or buy a HC and you will KNOW what it is and even better you can do something about it if need be.

if you loose a motor I personally would replace the oil cooler. you can have them backflushed but if it spun a bearing and bits of bearing material made it through the pump then chances are there is some in your cooler. It can be painful if it's an expensive one but is it worth risking the new motor? it does depend on exactly what happened though.

a valve type type BOV (ie a proper one like a trust type R etc) will always be better than the cheap ones that just have a piston inside a tube. better reaction and generally better flow/bypass capability.

I have never had to top up oil on any of my RB26s and i've had a fair few, from stock 1989 engine to brand new N1 Nur motors to built motors and none of them used oil between changes. granted my changes tend to be fairly quick as most got some track use and get fresh oil then, but they always gave back out pretty much what was put in. there is definitely something wrong happening. in normally healthy state RB26s do not burn or loose oil.

toit! like a toiger. very good mate. It really is a good set-up. now I need an answer that's a bit OT. I'm about to put the greddy easy cams into the SR, 256/264 10.5/10.5 but should I bother fitting cam gears too? I think you said not to bother getting any with the current set-up. but someone else now tells me he reckons there is 20kw in it on an SR with small-ish cams by adjusting the gears. I know my experience from RBs tells me sometimes there is (GTR with stock cams) and sometimes there isn't (other GTR set-ups).

Great vids Jos. all 3 were good. really nice quality productions.

first question is how old are you? next question you need to think about is where do you want to end up? I mean if you want a serious career what discipline of motorsport do you want to make your own? Rallying (the dirt stuff like ARC and WRC, not talking targa tas etc, that is more a hobby for most than a job)? Circuit racing? if it's circuit racing you need to eventually choose between tin tops of open wheelers and follow that path. let's say you chose circuit racing. if you are still in your teens (early teens even better) then you need to get into karting. once you have moved up through a few classes of karts and from doing local/state rounds onto national rounds or even international rounds then you are ready to move onto something bigger. if things are tight a move into formula vee is the next logical step but if your parents, you or your sponsors can afford it then skip F Vee and go straight into formula ford. if you are still doing well and at the pointy end then after a season or a few in FF then you'll want to move into F3, at this point you may also start looking at some tin-top stuff as that is where the focus and money is in aus. if at F3 point you want to continue an open wheel career then you need to go overseas (europe) and start mixing it up over there. that is where the open wheel money is and ultimately that is where a shot at F1 is. if tin tops is your thing then after some Formula ford seasons and success and perhaps a year or two of F3 then you'll be looking at something national level in a tin top. it used to be carrerra cup would be the place to go but it's gone now, so you'd probably be wanting to try V8 utes for a year, maybe aussie racing cars (both have national series) and then into the second tier V8 SC competition aka Fujitsu series. After a few years in that (or one or 2 if you are a gun) then you will have a shot at stepping up to the main V8 super car series which is the main game in aus. your other options would be overseas where you may be able to pick-up some drive in something like Japanese Super GT or other tin top series in europe or even america if you dare. whatever path you choose you'll need a lot of money to start and get you the right gear and in touch with the right people. and you'll need at least a bit of talent (don't need heaps, lack of talent can be compensated for with lots of practice and lots of money!) and even then it will be tough to make a 'career' out of motorsport. if you just want to have some fun then that's a whole different story. you can basically use a roadworthy road car and with a few modifications use it safely and enjoyably at the track and club level trackdays and state level supersprints. do some driver training days too and you will enjoy it even more. if after that you want to get more serious there are still pathways open to guys who want to race competitively in state or national level classes but not necessarily to make a living, stuff like improved production, production sports etc is a good place to go. very few if anyone in those series is making any money to drive there but it is very competitive and a great place to race if you have the desire and the budget.

speed is more often used than RPM. it's the same thing anyway but at least a true representation. it tells you much more. if the x axis was in RPM it enables people to make cars look better than they are. for example. if the x axis was set to rpm and I did a run in 5th gear it would look like I made boost really early and make the car look great as the time taken to build rpm in 5th enables the turbos to spool up earlier than they would in say 3rd or 4th. there is no way to hide that with the x axis in road speed as you can easily tell (once you know approx what rpm = speed in what gear) what gear the car was in for the run.

there is one small downside I can see to this style of importing. if you have an agreement with them that says "I will pay $52,000 for a 2000 model R34 GTR in blue with less than 100,000kms, landed, complied and ready for rego" then there is a dis-incentive for them to buy the most expensive car. the cheaper the car they buy the more money they make. which is not good for you. I think you are better off just paying an importer a fixed rate for their service and then working out you maximum bid price on a car, then have them search auctions for the best car they can win at your bid price.

lol @ N1GTR. dude. he's a scammer. 1 post selling his 34 GTR rims with tyres for $800 which as far as I can tell have already been sold a few times over...... unless there are more GTRs around missing their wheels. he also shares his IP address with this gentleman. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...3000&st=100 anyone sending this guy money needs their head read.

looks good. oran park will be the test for sure. wheels take a pounding there. especially if you drop one off the edge of the track or past a curb (which does happen) they sometimes get nailed on the inside of the rim as they come back over the drop off. seen plenty of $$ rims get hammered in that way and warped or buckled. they will most likely be fine but even if not at least they are cheap to replace!

the 100mm intercooler most likely wont have 100mm inlet pipes. probably around 80-90mm. your current HKS hard pipe kit should fit up fine. at the worst you may need to change the silicone joiner where pipe meets cooler but I doubt it.

michelein may not even want back in after being given the boot. maybe nangkang will step up to the plate?

great topic, lovely write up and good clear pics. yes cheap nuts can definitely contribute to farking your studs. it seems not everyone has the exact same idea of an M12X1.25mm suitable nut and you can visibly see sometimes differences in how deep the thread is cut etc between different brands. a good set of studs and nuts is a good investment.

yes jenson looked p1ssed when vets made some remark about him getting married during the televised part of the post race conference. not happy at all. I say deal with it. He's a highly paid driver in a high profile sport. I mean if he wants a nice private life he can go and drive a tractor instead and get $50K a year instead of what was it? $10mil? I think he might have to live with being in the public eye just a tad....

I haven't had trouble getting new N1 blocks in japan recently? or compelte N1 motors for that matter. direct from nissan. I think this whole no block making for 5 years must be a rumour. either that or they had stacks upon stacks of them sitting around waiting. can still buy one today if needed. either block or long motor. N1, N1 Nur or even standard 05U. pick one.

my only question is if the pumps are made in australia why does the distributor claim they are made in germany? and pages before that someone claimed they were made in china or taiwan? I couldn't really give a crap where they are made but it would be good for guys who are selling them to at least all be saying the same thing. hell I might even buy one for one of my engines. though I'm still waiting on shanef's splined gears...... come on shane!!!