Beer Baron

d'oh! I'm 90% sure i have that one too, but probably the weak factory ones. probably just as easy to order one I guess, but if you need let me know and I'll check, I have a whole bunch of nissan and tomei head gaskets around (like throttle/exhaust/intake etc).

that's sexual chocolate dave. nicely done. now where exactly are you storing it again..... actually i shouldn't play this game as you already know where all my sht is! lol. it's all a pretty neat fit as it's a pretty bloody big pump! still clears engine mount fine etc. should be a winner.

the nismo stuff is good too. i've used it in japan. as you know I also have a big love of the 300V but the veruspeed stuff will be fine. hell it may even be some kind of motul re-branded.... there is a very close association between nismo and motul.....

it wont cause you any problems. power FC, standard, F-con, whatever. the type of ECU you have wont make a difference. if you want/need the remote start then go for it.

my advice from owning about 10 GTRs. don't worry about a full exhaust at this stage with standard turbos. simply because to fit the dump pipes it's a turbo out job which is a lot of labour cost for not much gain. what you needs: a set of good, large front pipes a high flow cat or de-cat (these can be a major restriction) if your cat back exhaust is already good then keep it. you already have pod filters so the intake is already pretty free flowing (the other option is K+N filter in the stock air-box) add to this: Power FC ECU or Nistune (power FC and hand controller can be found less than $900 second hand, you need either 32 GTR or 33 GTR model, 34 GTR model WONT fit your 32 GTR) Trust Profec B II boost controller (they are great value and will give you good stable boost control) optional: this is up to you, but personally at this stage I would add some adjustable cam gears. they give a good mid-range gain when set properly on a lightly modded GTR like yours will be. Once you have all those parts take it somewhere for fitting and tuning. Set boost at NO MORE than 15psi MAX. around 14psi is fairly safe, but to be honest it's always a gamble with stock 32 GTR turbos, they can let go even at stardard boost, so start putting away some money for a set of turbos down the track.... with your 14psi, your intake and exhaust freed up and your cam gears set, and your power FC or nistune properly tuned you should have at least 240rwkw and as much as 270rwkw. it will also be more responsive than standard, will be heaps more fun to drive and should be good enough for a low 12 second quarter mile. possibly a high 11 if you have good tyres and really ring it's neck. once you get to this point the injectors are nearly maxed. the stock fuel pump is nearly maxed (may already be failing in which case buy a nismo direct fit pump) the AFMS will also be hitting max voltage. so you need to make a choice to be happy with this level, or be prepared to spend a lot of dough. stage 2 is a big step up in cost and involves: new turbos (size depends on what you want, but at least $3K) and fitting new injectors (again sized for what power you want) new fuel pump dump pipes (of some description, 32 ones are pretty poor) possibly a slightly larger intercooler (like a 70mm ARC one which is a very good choice) more tuning new clutch and to be sensible a brake upgrade of some kind and an oil cooler. so you can see stage 2 will run you to $10K easily. but it will get you over 300kw atw and as much as 350kw depending on what turbo(s) you choose.

no worries mate. and thanks again for doing that for me. and I did get to teach you the kana for crank angle sensor and the romaji for coolant! good exchange. lol.

thanks mate. LLC is coolant. I think perhaps it's short for Long Life Coolant or similar, but either way it definitely is coolant, always just written as LLC in japan. page 2, number 4 you are right was 2 cars (well actually twice/2 engines) because they took the new 34 sump (with 34 ratio diff) off the crate motor and swapped it with the original engines sump. so of course they had to properly remove and refit both sumps. so that I'd have the engine in the 32 complete with it's original 32 diff etc and have the other engine sealed up properly with the sump fitted. everything was spot on. thanks very much. I'll send you one with prices etc complete if you want as a comparison to your HKS bill which I imagine is mounting up very nicely at this point!!!

Thanks mate. Number 10 is crank angle sensor. corner = angle. Thanks so much.

Thanks mate that would be much appreciated. domo arigato gozaimasu (^_^)

the reason is that the r35 was added to the sevs list as "low volume NEW" as sewid said had Nissan not applied to import them in "full volume" then we would have been able to add "low volume used" 18 months after the Japanese release date. Since Nissan made the 18 month window then that's the end of that. Low volume new is the only way to bring one in for road use. Of course for personal import it can be used (can be anything the rules for PI are totally different. Yeah I had a grey one. Sold now. I imported 2 others as well for friends. One rally use, the other low volume new. That was over a year ago now though.

except for the R34 N1 turbos which are steel wheeled and larger. otherwise all 34s (v spec, non vspec whatever) are NOT steel wheeled. all are ball bearing.

i have some metal tomei ones lying around here if you need dave.

can anyone help? I would really appreciate it. some background for anyone who is interested. it's an invoice for my car. I had some work done to it in japan and this is the invoice (prices censored ). A friend is looking to buy the car and really wants to know exactly what is in there, my memory is shit so I really need to give him a list that has been 'independently' translated. thanks again to anyone with the time to help.

sounds like a good time all round!

good points. I understand about the fuel going off once exposed to air bit and have experienced it myself. highly oxegenated fuel is a wonderful thing and gives a lot of benefit that is not explained by a simple RON number. I think the only way to run it economically is to switch to a small fuel cell for drag racing. like a 4 litre cell in the boot. keep the regular tank if you like if you still want street duties and switch to the small cell for the $$$ stuff. I do see your point though.

I've never head of one, obviosuly guys like hypertune etc would have plenty lying around. whether or not they want to sell you one could be a different matter though. still it shouldn't be too hard. get intake gasket, give to machine shop. hand over mucho dinero, stand back and bob's your uncle.

look, anyone who gets ripped off on the forum will get all the help from admins that we can legally give with the resources (time) that we have. that means yes we can do things for you like check to see if that same user has multiple accounts, or previously banned accounts, or whatever. if you do make a police report, and the police contact us asking for IP address information then yes of course we'll provide it to the police. if the user is clearly a scammer then of course we can ban them etc as well to prevent further victims. but often if it's just a dispute all banning does is close down one means of comunication and can actually lessen your chances of getting money back. in most cases discussion with the seller will get you a result. just instantly banning anyone who looks half way dodgey won't help you and in most cases will hurt you. outside of that it's all up to you guys to be careful. prevention is far better than the cure.... a few minutes work before committing to a purchase can save you hours or even days of hassle down the line if you get ripped. how many of you are prepared to take days off work to attend small claims court, police stations etc. you loose thousands of dollars worth of your time, plus the possibility of having to pay for legal advice/representation all to get back a few hundred of few thousand dollars. even if you win, you'll still come out well behind. that doesn't factor in the stress and anger caused either. as I said, you are far better off spending the time up front to ensure it doesn't happen to you.

yikes! one small point though. sliding don't (no one does for that matter) "operate directly from SAU", they pay to advertise on this site. if you saw an ad in HPI, rang up the company, bought something and it was fked, would you expect HPI to sort it out for you since the ad was in their magazine? I wouldn't. I would expect that it is my responsibility to sort it out with the company involved, and any government agency available to me (regulatory bodies, industry bodies, police, fair trading etc).

lol, it's not peanuts to me! of course every dollar counts. I just didn't think a drag car would burn a whole tank of fuel in one meeting considering at race meeting you might see what? 8 passes? I guess it depends on what type of meeting, if it's knockout etc. and how far you get. and of course power level makes a big difference, but it's still more than I thought. $13.50 a litre is a lot as well. there are cheaper race fuels out there that are good. ELF LMS is about half that (actually more like 2/3s these days) and is not bad. I'm guessing you have probably tried most fuels by now though. I'm guessing the VP roo stuff must be pretty good though at that kind of money.

the only person who can stop the rip-offs is the buyer. we can put in all sorts of measures to try and verify who people are but people will still get around it. plus we do not have anything near the resources to do this for every member. it would cost money and mean the forum would become $50 to join and take a week for your application to be processed. that doesn't sound like fun to me. this is primarily a forum to share help, knowledge, ideas and problems with skylines and other nissans and cars in general. it's not ebay. we do have a for sale section but it's not the reason the site exists. I can tell you I have NEVER been ripped off by anyone on this forum or any other and I would have completed literally thousands of transactions with people over the internet. some advice. always pick-up the item if you can, or at least suggest it and judge the sellers response (say, I have a mate up your way who can pick it up for me). if they say no then chances are they are trying to rip you. LOOK AT THEIR TRADER FEEDBACK - this cannot be stressed enough. it's why we have it. a guy with 0 feedback will warrant some carefullness on your part. LOOK AT THEIR FORUM POST HISTORY - this is easy and will show you if they are an active member, and will show you if they are physically 'known' by other members in their area. that way if worst comes to worst you know that people on here know them personally and can help you solve the problem. protect yourself as much as possible by using paypal, or escrow, or COD etc. Get as much info as you can about them and verify it. ph numbers (landline and mobile) address, full name, etc. all important to have. lastly, if it seems to good to be true.........it ALWAYS is. as admins we will help you as much as we legally can (within the level our time resources allow too). but the onus is on the buyer. don't become a victim.

is it really that expensive to run a race fuel in drag racing. I mean we are talking full throttle passes of between 8 and 12 seconds for the average 'serious' drag racer. in a circuit car you would spend about that time on full throttle just on the straight. so I can see it being an issue for circuit guys, but since they aren't governed by ANDRA then they have no problem. really how many litres of fuel would a drag car run in an average meeting? the upgrade cost with the mega pumps, thousand dollar lines, fuel rail, injectors etc. is it really worth it, if you only use say 1l per run? I know when we ran ELF LMS in prod sports it was a fair cost, but we are talking about 1hr of practice running, qualy session, and 3 20min races so it's a fair bit of fuel. even 10 passes at 10 seconds a pass is less than 2 minutes of full throttle running time.

for all intents and purposes it's currently impossible to import an R35 from japan for legal road use in oz. it would need to be brand new and I mean brand spanking new (bought from a dealer) BUT it would have to be an 07/08 model (ie built before nissan started selling them here). on top of that there is only one place I know of with compliance and you would need to check with them if they are still willing (or able) to comply a car for you. Nissan are very much on top of this and they will put pressure on DOTARS to have your car inspected on the wharf before it's cleared and any evidence of it being a 'used' car (ie previous owner on paperwork, any marks etc) would see it get knocked back. the only viable import options at the moment are: race/rally use (but can never be complied or road registered) personal import (you need to be living in japan, with the car, and have it there registered in your name for at least 12 months and there is no way of 'fudging' this one, must be legit)\ I would be surprised if there are any more SEVS imports. there may be 1 or 2 more that come in that have been display stock at a dealer or something since 2007 and not been driven at all but even that is pretty unlikely.

thanks mate. much appreciated, and of course happy to do favours of any type, any time.

lol, I thnk you put it even more succinctly that me. but that's the basic idea. quality of a particular car should be number 1 priority over options etc. when it comes down to it that's all the v-specs etc are. option packs and a sticker. so you always want to go for the better quality car over the more optioned/rare car. and the sheer weight of numbers tells you that with 32s the better quality cars are most often going to be base models. sure it's worth paying a little extra for a vspec over a base model of the same condition but I wouldn't pay a lot if you plan on actually using the car. as once you put a whole lot of kms on it, have a little fender bender in it, and put some mods on it, then the price premium it once commanded will be goneski.

they are the regular 300mm same as all 34 GTR brembos, non vspec or otherwise. it's R34 Vspec II N1 that has the larger rear rotors.