Beer Baron

3mm is probably about right for radius but from OD to ID I'd expect between about 4mm to 6mm as it's obviously the OD - wall thickness (X2) = ID. so with a 2mm or 3mm wall thickness you'll be looking at about 6mm less ID. anyway it's not a big problem. most GTR front pipes are around that size.

yeah almost certainly OD. most jap front pipes quote OD sadly. measure the ID and be prepared to be disappointed. but they'll be fine for what you want. and they will all bolt to factory or aftermarket dumps. they are all designed to be direct fit and all have the same flanges and the same bolt spacing it's just how much of that flange is used up by pipe. have a look at stock front pipes and you'll see how much room there is between the pipes and the flange bolts. the aftermarket pipes use the same size flange just stuff a bigger pipe into it.

car was going great mate. sad to see the little off you had, but that's tarmac rallying for you and bound to happen from time to time. up till then it looked great but like you said definitely not hooked up nicely in the rear. possibly time to get some shocks with a bit more oil capacity (remote canister time) but as always it's just more $$$. they really get a hammering on road tarmac rally stuff so I can see why you might think they were overheating.

some cool pics on their site showing how they fit a trust sump up by measuring the depth the new pick-up will reach to determine where to weld the extension to the old sump: apparently drawing pictures on your no 6 piston will also give your engine power of super lucky dream wish. on one of the head return/vent installs they mounted it to passenger side and also added another little pressure/vacuum feed which is interesting. but in other install pics they have done one facing drivers side too.

nice looking fitting. the common wisdom seems to be that not much will drain back and that the real value drain wise is in porting out the factory oil returns BUT it should still work well as a vent. you could possibly even add a catch tank of sorts between the top fitting and the sump with a vent on it to allow it to vent to atmosphere through another outlet (other than just the rocker covers). but it will still work that way.

yeah the M-speed car has a few things that fly in the face of lots of aussie experience with track RB26s. it used an N1 NUR balancer (only marginally different to stock, but they now use an ATI one I'm told), it uses a wet sump (and no extension, partly due to ride height), no pedal box etc. on the other hand it has extensive suspension geometry changes, massive change in roll centre, ride height is super low, lots of aero, lots of weight savings, hollinger box etc. the apexi turbos they use are a good thing too. they do have extensive head porting as well, and cams but as you saw no v-cam, but with the diffs they run and the ratios in the hollinger low down power I would say is not such a concern as it would be easy enough to keep the thing on the boil. I doubt it would spend much if any time under about 5,000 at the track. BUT having said all that it's a very different car to Matts. it's a balls out track car. about as close as you can get to a super GT car without going space frame/carbon tub and starting with a clean sheet. I do agree with dazmo that the HKS turbos are more than just a badge. they do seem to out perform the generics, but your tuner has had good success with the -5s so it makes sense to take his advice. I also agree with him about the happy dynos in japan and the fact that you can never really accurately compare 2 runs on different dynos on diferent days let alone in different countries etc. 202kw @ 14.5psi on an RB28 with 2530s is certainly reasonable though too. most tuners in japan tune on the dyno but do the bulk of tuning on the wangan or other freeways and roads, or on the track if it's a track car. they are big believers in tuning cars under their operating conditions which is ideal. sadly it's also illegal and dangerous. lucky for them they don't have such a problem with the legalities or the danger as people are used to seeing a GTR fly past at 240kp/h on the freeway. hell the workshop I use in japan which tunes everything from civics to top D1 cars up to Super GT cars to lots of GTRs has an ancient bosch dyno that uses special sheets of paper that only read to about 300ps and uses an arm and needle to scribble the power line on the special graph paper like a seismograph! they use it for running in and basic tuning, then do final tuning on the road and freeway. many big tuners in japan don't even have a dyno for that reason. anyway I've gone a bit OT. I'm sure your car is all that it should be. and if you have any doubts I'm happy to come and take it for a spin and let you know how it compares to some of the top Jap 2.8 V-cam set-ups I've been in/driven....

lol -71 degrees Intake temp. your fuel would be freezing in the inlet... you need to understand the dyno software takes into account ambient temp (AT) and intake temp (IT) and corrects the power figure accordingly. withh figures like those who knows what kind of power figure correction it would be applying. but I can tell you now it's very, very unlikely that your 32 GTST is making 170rwkw @ 12.5psi. just as unlikely as it has -71C intake temp...

yep the GTR Trust kit that mounts in the passenger side guard is tried and proven. they are a great kit and come with a little alloy duct and you need to cut holes in the plastic guard liner that's behind it to allow air to flow through the core, not just up to it and then around it. with the alloy duct and an air exit path they work very, very well. mounting one behind the intercooler etc is much less effective. getting them good clean airflow is half the battle. and the trust kit comes with the right brackets, duct, right length lines, good core, and nice filter mounts. it's expensive but worth every cent. I've used them now on a number of my GTRs. and the good thing is if you later need a bigger core you can squeeze a bigger core into that same spot and retain the rest of the kit. just a new earls or mocal core with more 'row's and dash 10 fittings and you'll be in business.

if the budget is a little tight it's proabably wiser to try and buy one here. only really worth importing I reckon right now to find that special 1 owner low km vspec if that's what you want, but sadly you'll have to pay for it. the only cheap ones you are going to find are going to be non-vspec (seem to be important to you), have high kms, and most likely more than 1 owner (more like 4 or more) and mostly 1999 or 2000 models. for a car like that you could pick one up here dirt cheap as there are always some desperate sellers out there. the fact is even the newest R34 GTR is 8 years old and early ones now 10 years old. they don't appeal to that many older buyers, and younger buyers can't drive them due to p plate restrictions. so the have a bit lower demand than in the past, and due to the whole used car glut you have a good chance of a bargain here. the main reason to import one atm is to get a special one, but if the budget isn't there then it's just not going to happen unless you are will to bid on and get beaten time after time until eventually you get lucky and the car dealers take a nap as a nice one comes up and you win it.

when did you import the car and what type of import approval do you have for it?

well..... they are americans......

yeah as much as love the guy and would kill to see him race again, I think schumacher has driven his last F1 race already. he'd be mad to do a comback now.

not anymore it's not as of last saturday... let's just say it's gone to a good home... a very good home.... ps, and no I don't mean mine!!!

dude, change down a gear! labouring your GTR up a hill in 5th at 60km/h and 2100rpm witb 100% throttle and high load is always going to be bad for it and make it ping. you could probably tune around it but these high load conditions are always bad news. the easy solution is drop down a gear or two. it is a sports car after all and quite a peaky one at that. GTRs aren't giving you their best at anything under about 4500rpm. sure cruising is one thing, but labouring it up a hill is just bad all round.

lol, same time! d'oh. that BMW crash is nasty. shame too as the driver did all the right things, he countersteered enough to keep the car straight, slowed down as was motoring along happily until he hit the stunt ramp which just completely fked his day.

yeah it's a bit dump. the vid of the aston martin shows what happens when you hit it. you get airborne and miss most of the gravel trap. here's the incar from the zed. you can see as the crash starts he hits the lip and gets airborne and is just going to fly over most of the gravel trap regardless of whether or not it cartwheeled. and you can see this crash at the same spot starts almost the same way. car hits the lip, gets airborne and misses half to two thirds of the sand trap and ends up in the the wall. having the sandtrap fall away from the track edge like that just doesn't work. nor does the lip before you hit it. the astons flight does look quite graceful though... lol.

are you sure it's electric sender? I thought the speedo drive in the S13 cluster is mechanical... 32s certainly are mechanical driven with a speedo drive and cable to the back of the cluster, that then sends the electronic speed signal to the ecu. I have a similar problem. i have a CA18 auto S13 that has been converted to SR20DET, manual with S14 box and the speedo is out. it's not half road speed. more like 10km/h out. purely because the sender in the box is not the one that's intended for my diff ratio.

my R32 GTR runs a 34 N1 Nur engine inc the 34 CAS etc. I will have to have a look and see how it's done. it all looks factory. I had it done in japan so I have NFI exacly how they did it. I'll have a look and see what coil packs it's running too.

OE nissan studs are the way to go for the exhaust manifold studs.

all the aftermarket pumps pump much more volume at any given pressure and RPM than a standard pump. you can work it out. if a pump pumps say 6L/min at 5,000rpm and you sit on 5,000rpm you've now pumped 6L of oil, now obviously your oil return galleries are returning oil to the sump but if they can't return it as fast as it's being pumped up then you eventually get a problem. you can always figure out how much your sump holds (my advice with aftermarket pump you need a bigger sump to go with it) and you can find out how much volume of oil your oil pump delivers at certain pressures and RPM points but the one part of the equation that is generally unknown is how much oil is being returned to the sump in L/min and it changes depending on vacuum/pressure in the head, size of oil returns, pressure in the sump, g-forces etc. pretty hard to work out. the best bet is go with what is tried and proven. save yourself from being the crash test dummy.....

when being used as a bov it vents air from under the diaphragm. my understanding (and I could be wrong) it just allows the bov to close again quicker. as trent said if you used it differently hooked a pressure source up to it you could use it as a boost control/pop-off valve. the pressure coming under the diaphragm would make it open at whatever boost level and vent boost out thus controlling boost. my personal experience, I've only used a type S once, it was on a GTI-R, and that pipe was NOT hooked up to anything, and it worked perfectly fine.

very sorry to hear that. so sad to lose 2 great competitors.

yeah the trust sump is a proven winner if you are staying wet sump and in a 4wd GTR. they are not expensive to buy, just need a competent welder and you're done. they are the right design and are about as far as you can go without it being too low (some would argue it already is a bit low but it has to be).

yeah, the GTRs in super GT (well JGTC back then) were run in RWD only.

just listen to uras. leave it open. you don't need to hook it up to anything.