Beer Baron

GP GP GP GP GP!!

nothing wrong with a little tappa tappa tappa. on the track or in the pits... lol. ok, kidding. and I'm with whoever it said it before. skaife will come good this year.

merlin, talk to justin fox. he bought one direct from the US. about $2000 or $2500 from memory.

very sad news indeed.

yeah awesome. I certainly didn't reset any records but it was awesome fun.

agreed. and for the gears either tomei or trust have my vote. and I own both types! one on each RB26.

sort of. the front right (maybe front left I forget) anchorage point will be on the wrong angle. some small modification (ie hit it with a hammer) can fix that. but I would never suggest you do it as it will weaken the seat mount and things wont be good if it fails. you could get that one mount cut off and a new one of the correct angle welded on.

I'll get you the correct part number tomorrow

haha, yeah that makes it a tough ask! sorry. I mean sdpics. www.sdpics.com

that is completely wrong.

lol, I think I must be the only person who knew you were joking... lol, sub 50....

also, read this thread merlin. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...ne-t185820.html

lol. better than bsmmotorsports....

haha, you trying to build copies of my poor old car all around the state now? ok, I admit it's a good recipe.

anyone know of any pro photographers that were there on the saturday? keen to get some shots of the little silvia. I had a look at sdimages but it seems they only do sunday.

oh, and personally I wouldn't put the XS mani and especially the XS gate anywhere near an engine like that. use the mani if you have to, but buy a better gate. I've seen guys with cheap gates have all sorts of problems.

my advice. don't worry about the coils or ign amplifier unless you need them. once the car is being tuned it will be obvious if you are having any ignition problems. as for the balancer, ideally you would have had the whole assembley balanced together (completel with balancer and flywheel). if your current engine was built and balanced with the standard balancer then just use that. but I would say keep revs under 8,000. you should be able to make plenty of power even with an 8,000 limit and your engine will live a long time. and yes, the HKS R33 drag car used standard coils. the veilside R32 GTR drag car also used standard coils. the reason people switch to splitfires is that their standard coils eventually fail when they get old, and replacing them with new nissan ones is 3 times the price of splitfires.

awesome! I would love some 91 and 92 races on anything! I'll even swap you for your nismo diff clutch pack I have here on my desk

well most squeal can be cured with: installing the factory anti squeal shims using copper grease, or the special anti squeal paste champhering the edges of the pads if not done from factory re-bedding them in but, I have a set of pads. Endless CC-R, and they squeal no matter what. Hot, Cold, New, Old with shims, without shims they are just a noisy pad. you shouldn't have that problem with ultimates though.

RB20 is 20 degrees. and forget looking at the sticker under the bonnet. they are made by halfwits. my GTR one says 15 (rubbish), my GTI-R one said 15 too (also rubbish). pretty much they just put 15 down for every nissan ever complied.

yep, very bad idea to let the car sit at cold idling for 5 mins. apart from being bad for the engine it also means that you are not getting any temp into your gearbox, diffs, brakes or clutch. so when you do finally set off your engine will be up to temp but nothing else will be. imo the best idea is start car. take your time getting comfy etc and you should be edging out of the garage about 30 seconds after you started the car. I am the same as ferni in that I just drive it normally along (minimal boost, revs under about 3,000) until the oil temp passes 70. then you can have some fun if you want, but hold off on any real 'fangining' until oil temp is 75+.

removing the fuel tank only to fit a 50L fuel cell seems a bit out there. unless you are planning some enduros? 30 or 40l maybe, but if it's a street car just leave the fuel tank where it is. if it's a track only car then fit a 20 or 30L. no point doing half measure. then all you get is not much weight saved on track, and much more inconvenience on street.

stock is 20 degrees advance BTDC @ 950 rpm. check it with your timing light. I can almost promise that the CAS wasn't put in exactly the same spot as before and your timing is now either too advanced or too retarded and is making it run poorly. check timing, loosen the 3 bolts and roate the CAS position as needed. it doesn't take much movement to affect the timing and the way the car runs.

yeah it's crazy how fast they go with fancy computers and the like. will be even quicker once they get a hold of some good size semi slicks.

yep, the R35 GTR road car does tsukuba in between 1.00 and 1.02 depending on who's driving. mines have now done a 59 using their own suspension and exhaust and lightly tuned ECU (but still on road tyres!). now you know why Mark and Russ wanted one when they saw the R35 at Tsukuba back in december. from memory it was doing 1.01 or 1.02s on the day straight out of the box!