Beer Baron

all correct Geetr. the squish zones don't really reduce power as such, they just have a propensity for causing detonation. any serious race engine (circuit/drag/whatever) has the squish zones removed on both sides of the head. this costs low end torque (and thus response) but means you can run more boost and more timing and thus gain lots more power with lots less detonation. cars that are destined for some street use, or are not aiming for massive power generally remove the squish zones on one side of the head only. it's not easy to do as to do it properly you need to have a very, very good idea of the shape you need once removed, and you need to CC the combustion chambers and adjust to get them all even again. all the other stuff you mention I agree with too. about why #6 is the detonation cylinder of choice in inline 6 engines and the RB26 in particular.

maybe they'll make a profit in it by breaking it up?

yeah I'd definitely be asking for another test drive since the first one was cut short. then afterwards say no thanks, this cars just not for me. lol.

cool pic mate! definitely hang that one in the pool room! and some great results too.

now spoken for by simonster. will update the thread once sale is complete

Capital D'OH!!!

get rid of the oil. switch to the motul chrono 400V. 10W40. much better choice. well after you've diagnosed the problem that is. problem could also be a loose balancer like mine

ummmmm okkaaay. there was this small car release recently. you may have heard of it. something like Nissan R35 GTR?!?

yes it's different. that's the whole problem here.

nah it's not. have a read up on net power. it's not power at the wheels.

habourside carpark is a know hot spot for car theft. same story, they target cars without alarms. and sadly if you can't afford a decent alarm mostly you can't afford (or get) insurance either. bad news they do the same thing. find nice car without alarm, come in with a stolen car. steal car, tailgate on the way out. the bloody carpark operators don't care. they only have camers to get numberplates of people who try and get out without paying. they don't actually care about security.

you can providing you measure the stretch and check if it is within the tolerance stated within the workshop manual. personally if they are old and used I would consider either just buying new standard ones, or uprgrading to the ARP stud kit.

yep it's a great idea. with 1.2mm gasket and forged pistons you could quite happily run up to 20psi providing you have the fuel supply and cooling and tuning to support it.

yeah it's offset.

me too mate. I went genuine for door seals, rear screen seal and front screen seal and mold kit. and after the bill over well over $1000 for that lot I couldn't really stomach another $1000 for the 2 quarter windows. one day I probably will though.

yep that is correct. quarter windows are bonded to the seals no real way around it.

R33 impul: I wont be going to impul any time in the near future, but akeenan may be able to help out? poida, using a canon 400D (well kiss X actually lol) and canon ef and ef-s lenses. r33per, glad you enjoyed the thread

you can probably do both. i am on a strict no concrete diet from now on though. so if you plan on sending it in backwards at least make it to the tyres like troy.

a proper harness with quick release wont be legal for street use. also I would recommend against using a 4 point belt with a standard seat anyway as it has no belt guides around your neck and even worse no neck guides for the lap belts which leaves them free to move. in an accident it's possible you will 'submarine' under the belts and be in real trouble. if you have a back problem perhaps look at a fixed back bucket seat. they give full back support and are of course compatible with a 4 or even 6 point harness. plus they protect your whole spine and will not easily snap in half like a factory seat will, they also promote a more upright seating position which wont hurt.

in my experience, they are just plain no good. I would be looking at other options. G4 are the same as the D2s so no real difference there.

sorry, I can't. only those people duncan listed can do it.

yep. he can buy one or import one to NZ. have it registered there, ensure he keeps receipts for rego, garage adress etc. then he can import it with him to aus as an australian citizen returning home. he can then sell it to you no problem. bear in mind though all those costs I stated will still be the same, plus add to them freight from japan to NZ, NZ import duty, 1 years rego etc. so it will be more expensive again that doing it direct from japan. and no jonn he cannot buy two. you can import a maximum of one personal import per year.

it has to be inspected by an engineer to assert that it meets basic ADR requirements, then yes it's just a roadworthy (in NSW blue slip) and normal registration procedure.

well like I said in my post if you are not currently living in japan then that's a shitload of effort to go to. moving countries for 12months... ok, let's say you find someone to do it for you (and this assumes nothing goes wrong and they don't drive or fk up the car). $90,000 AUD for car $5,000 for person to do all this work for you and look after it (at least) $4,000 1 years parking space lease $3,000 1 years rego in japan $2,500 shiping $9,000 GST $9,900 import duty $7,000 luxury car tax now bear in mind you've been without $100,000 for 12months, and when you get the car it's 12 months old. even at conservative investment you could have earnt $10,000 on that money in the 12 months and you would be getting a brand new car. and the car would have warranty. I'm not saying don't do it, if you want to then go ahead. but it's only really viable if you are living in japan. if you aren't then you will need to look at things pretty carefully. All those figures are just off the top of my head but not too far out. as i said in my original post, if you live in japan sure it's viable. if you live in australia is cheaper and easier to buy one here than to do a personal import. unless you buy a personal import from someone in japan who has put up their own money, driven and enjoyed the car for a year then sells it to you.