Beer Baron

it's on george st, city. just down the hill from the cinema's. next to cheers. not sure on the thongs part. shorts are def ok, thongs maybe not so much. the bouncer is usually behind a desk these days though so he may not notice, but if you have shoes, wear them I say

well don't settle for the digital rendition of bananaman, come to the RSL and witness him in real life.

lol, kel showed us how to skull a pint. for that I will always be grateful. she also proved that mark is a much bigger girl than she is. now who's with us? otherwise pete and I are going to look mighty gay drinking by ourselves...

yes it's on tonight. thursday night drinks at the RSL. so far I will be there with my boyfriend fatz. anyone else is welcome to come. mark is at the clinic getting his STDs looked at so wont be making it. Chris might show up. Kel should come on down. If you like beer and fit, handsome gentlemen then this is the place for you. we kick off about 5:30. just a few quiet beers, then some pide and a cab home.

they would have replaced the release bearing for sure. but gearbox input shaft bearing is a different matter. but not to worry it will be done when you overhaul the box.

Hi mate, as far as I know crank is R32 type with the narrow pump drive. hasn't been a problem for me in the 3 years I've run it, but it would be a perfect time to upgrade whilst the engine is out. just install a collar, or even easier replace crank with a 33 crank. Sure I would consider freight, basically I can put the engine into a pallet and box (the one the new engine comes out of). All of the extra stuff would be tricky though as there are lots of bits to go with it. So ideally I'm after someone local I guess, but if no body steps forward to take it I'll keep in touch.

doitashimashite. Mr 34. I have not spent much time in Hiroshima but it looks lovely, and all serious okonomiyaki eaters know that hiroshima style okonomiyaki kills osaka style. and the best okonomiyaki I've had was in Hiroshima.

the bearing noise when the pedal is out (ie foot off pedal, car running but in neutral) is gearbox input shaft bearing noise. very common in skylines. it's not too big a deal. it could be bad, but most often they will get noisy and will just stay noisy for years without any problem. sometimes they get noisy and then crap themselves shortly after. as for the clutch judder when you are taking off that is just a characteristic of a single clutch with high clamp load clutch. the only thing to cure it really is a driving style adjustment. just experiment with different techniques when taking off. or the other option is swap to another type of clutch.

what about the car that looks suspiciously like a hyundai???

who knew being built like a jockey had some advantages?!? well i may not be built like a jockey, but I am hung like a horse. nice one neil, should be pretty bloody rapid. and being conventionally powered will require only 1/10th the number of rebuilds as your rotor motor.

no fatz and duncan have a monopoly on that one... hehe. ok, maybe I'll be in "no class"....

yes you are definitely street class gary, and matt could well be race class. I am most certainly "All Class".

yeah, there is a heat exchanger in the oil filter mount assembly that puts heat from the coolant into the oil to help bring it up to 80C. go big, on hot days and track days you will need it. when you don't, just use the little alloy shield to block airflow to all or part of the core.

lol, sometimes a bit of reflection is nice I guess.

run the bigger cooler. and don't run it anywhere near the radiator. far better to have it housed in either side duct. thermostat is a good idea, but if you don't want to add one just monitor temps and if you find it wont get up to temp then just use a piece of perspex of aluminium sheet and cover part of the core during colder weather. on the street you don't really want temps over 100C for a skyline. 80-90 is fine running temp.

if you want to know the name of the place, PM the thread starter. if you want to try and subvert the rules by all means do it but you will end up with a temp ban again. d'oh.

that's wrong. personal imports are not restricted to SEVS listed cars. you can import ANY car as long as you have owned it (and lived) overseas for 12 months. even if that exact model is sold here in full volume. so if you are currently in aus that means moving to japan, buying and registering the car, leasing a parking spot. wait 12 months. then move back to aus with the car. it will be far cheaper and easier to buy one from nissan unless of course you are currently living in japan anyway.

funnily enough it's racing on the wangan. ok, my last shot at COD3. $50 inc postage around aus. can't get better than that.

why does it have an aftermarket IC? and what type and how thick is it? the problem is everything is very well balanced from the factory. when you put in a big FMIC you ballsed that balance up. with your modifications you don't need anything other than a stock one. but ok, you've got it now so you may as well stick with it. oil temp of 115 degrees is not uncommon on track and is nothing to much to worry about. 100 is about normal. water temp ideally you want to keep under about 105. a decent oil cooler will most likely solve these problems, and is pretty much a must for any track driven GTR. I would have gone oil cooler first as you may well have found you didn't need that big radiator, but you've got it now I guess.

consider this an official warning for every clown that has posted so far in this thread. if you are not interested in buying the gucci handbag then don't fkn post in here. japcab mate, people may piss you off, but consider this your warning too. any more abuse directed at other forum members will see you with a warning and a temporary suspension.

good boy you will never look back. so don't be shy, share the spec!

no problem. I appreciate the thanks, and I'm happy to do it. Sharing memories and experiences I've had in Japan is great fun. The only bad part of the whole thing is the hours I spend uploading all the pics! It takes far longer than I ever would have imagined.

lol, import laws and registration laws have nothing to do with where the car is from. doesn't matter if you import one from bangladesh it's the same law. so sending one from japan to NZ then to aus would be a massive waste of time and money. having a car registered in NZ doesn't matter a damn. last I checked NZ is not a state of australia.

yeah I would say they are possibly some N1, or high flow. You can see the boost curve in the second dyno sheet. boost comes on very early, and holds very steady at 1.05 bar (15psi). Plus 267kw atw with such low boost is pretty uncommon, and who would bother fitting HKS actuators to stock turbos? still assume the worst and hope for the best I say.

yeah it's cheap, I need the dough! Forgot to add airflow meters are included too. and if you need an ECU I have a Kakimoto tuned standard computer which has a nice tune in it that I could probably throw in there. It's pretty much a GTR front cut minus a few small pieces. If there are no bites before I fit the new engine I will just get a new keyway put in and price will go well up. or I might just break up all the pieces. lots of money in it that way. Trust hard pipe kit would have to be worth $400 (considering it has all new joiners costing me about $250, and new Sard dual bead hose clamps which cost be about $200) GTR IC $150 GTR radiator $80 GTR throttles and plenum $800 GTR injectors $350 (these were recently cleaned and flowed and I have the results, all flowing 440cc) GTR Afms $200 GTR complete intake piping $180 ECU $300 Trust cam gears $200 Trust timing belt (only about 8,000kms use) $800 GTR motor (basically covers, head, bottom end, sump and diff) $3100 Fuel rail $20 Dump pipe and front pipes $100 manifolds $100 HKS actuators $150 (pair) Turbos (if standard $300, but they could be N1s, or similar in which case we are looking at at least $1000) engine and gearbox mounts $70 for the set That brings us to $7300 assuming the turbos are standard, or $8000 if they are not. I'm not interested in breaking stuff up and selling at this stage so please don't ask, I just put those rough prices up to give an idea of what you are getting. I'm sure plenty of people on here can vouch for how I treat my car and how I monitor the engine and use only the best oils and coolant and service it what amounts to about 2,000kms between services. I use 4 defi gauges to monitor the engine (oil pressure, oil temp, fuel pressure and boost and even have another big oil pressure warning light and buzzer). Bear in mind if you bought this for a GTST you could probably have the new keyway done, and the engine installed into your car for a total of maybe $6000 or so, then sell all your old GTST gear for maybe $1500-$2500 depending on what exactly you have. Then you have a nice, powerful, healthy RB26 conversion done for about $4000 or so. Very cheap power NOTE: engine is still in car and I'm happy for any serious buyer to get compression test and leakdown tests done, but if you are the trusting type I can save you the dough as I have the results here from a test done for me at Grey Imports. Reason for sale: I have bought an R34 N1 Nur crate motor in japan, and had it built to my spec (serious head etc) so I want to fit that