Beer Baron

GO WEBBER!

rears are heaps smaller. like 8 or 10mm bolts. I didn't buy them from yahoo. just a guy who was upgrading his R34 GTR brakes front and rear.

that sucks mate. nothing worse than being the victim of someone elses poor driving. that will be easily fixed, even the rear quarter will be no big deal. you will never even know it happend. skylines can take quite a hit in the rear without hurting the car as there is no chassis rails or structural members past the rear suspension. the boor area etc is all just crumple zone.

hooks, if they have one of those all you can eat desert bars set-up next to the sizzler car then count me in big boy.

well I think that is the end of that. I'm closing this thread. If it needs to be re-opened hanyou or amaru can contact me.

I'm sure he'll do the right thing. I don't think he would mess up the bank account number on purpose. he is probably just waiting to get his money back from the bank so he can send it to you again. If he only found out it was the wrong account on the 21st then it will take 4 or 5 days to get his money back. So I would expect him to have sent you the money before Tuesday next week. I can't make any excuses for him for delaying the postage, or for delaying the refund, but I don't think he will outright rip you off.

the take a piss advice is a good one. also, take a 2 litre bottle of water and a choccolate bar or two. you will need the water to hydrate and the chocco for energy. I have even bailed out of my car when lined up in dummy grid to go and have an emergencey leak. nothing worse than hitting the track whilst busting for a pee. and race suit warming is not reccomended.

please don't copy it. the more people that copy other companies hard work then sell cheap arse knock offs means the less those companies will be inclined to develop new products. if you like the bar, buy one from Top Secret.

and whilst I may not make it quite in time for the april 2007 race I will most likely head out for the final round of the year which is usually at Fuji Speedway in November. Super GT is awesome.

Group A touring car championship, Bathurst, October long weekend, 1991 be there or be square.

isn't it a top secret product?

the aftermarket discs make bugger all difference, unless they have a bell that is the wrong offset for your car (which is unlikely as they wouldn' fit on the hub properly if that was the case). The caliper and rotor size looks completely stock to me. thanks for the no shit sherlock remark too. I'll remember that next time i'm trying to help you trouble shoot your problem. the picture made me think it's possible you were putting them on the wrong way. I still can't figure out why you put up a pic of a spacer sitting in front of your wheel then if you know they fit behind it? edit: figured it out better from your other thread.

strut bar is much of a muchness. it's just a piece of bar. chose a brand you like the look of. whiteline front upper control arm bushes will give you some camber adjustment, or use some replacement upper arms.

the shell oil is no where near as good as the motul, hence the price difference. shell is not using a full synthetic ester as base stock.

that depends on who complied them mate. I have recently imported and complied a couple of 15yo cars and they both had compliance plates fitted. BUT i have seen plenty of them without too. as for SEVS all SEVS cars now have a compliance sticker (i've just imported and complied a sevs car too). also, the 15yo is still in action but it's fixed at 1988. so I guess it's a 19year rule now...

like ARC says: "the latest surroundings required by the times. ARC advances it with own sense and technology. Presenting extrodinary power to unknown car life" that should explain everything nicely.

i actually prefer intercoolers forged by warriors descended from the greatest of the men who fought during the meiji restoration period in post edo japan. imo you will find no finer intercooler cores than ARC. for 3 main reasons: They have fluted inlets (many others do not), they allow great flow through the core so your radiator still gets airflow, and they are very light (massively important given their position in the car).

well there is not much you can set really, there is no standard camber adjustment on the front so you can't change that. castor go for as much as you can out of the bushes I would try 1mm toe out each side and see if you like it. maybe a bit of toe in at the rear 1mm each side. rear camber is ok, but if it were me I'd try a little bit more, maybe go to 1 or 1.5 degree neg. unfortunately the only things you can adjust from standard is toe, and rear camber. plus you know have some castor adjustment which helps, but some camber adjustment at the front would be good.

dude, the spacer goes behind the wheel. not on the top of it.

i have the sport max as my 'street' tyres in 255/17. They are ok, but not brilliant.

spot on. On track I'm up around the 115 mark at max, but oil pressure is still a steady 6 bar at anything above 3,000rpm (which is all the time). I wouldn't worry too much about winter oil/summer oil your car pretty much runs the same temps summer or winter, maybe water temp get's up a bit in summer traffic. but even startup temps would only be 10degrees difference at most. maybe try the 10W40 one trackday and see what the oil pressure is like?

seems I could be wrong. I was just remembereing the japanese sticker on the door jamb on my 33 GTR, BUT my memory is not that flash. I would say that call was 50% memory, 50% talking out of my arse.

no worries james. just send me a pm and we can meet up, or I can bring it to some SAU gathering.

i am not a big fan of the chinese oil coolers. another PWR one, or an Earls one or a Serck one, or a trust one wont break the bank.

I think one part of this is users need to be more active in maintaining the forum, and by that I mean using the 'report post' button more often at the begining of conflicts, not at the end.