Beer Baron

haha, well at least I didn't pull it out of thin air! yeah, greg is a pretty good steerer and turns out some very nice cars too so it wont be any more than a blip on the radar for him. and yep, that is the downside to taking cars to the track. pretty much anytime you head out onto the circuit you can end up in the wall. most of us are lucky enough to avoid it for most of the time but sometimes it just happens. not much we can do but have a giggle and move on

thread closed. speculating about someones accident is not a preffered passtime on the forum. especially since the thread starter didn't even see the crash. which makes every post thereafter just based on nothing.

ahh, cool. for some reason I thought you had a boyfriend named greg and for a minute I thought oh noes he'd smashed your car. but yeah, greg boyle. makes sense now since you did say 'hit the wall again'. lol. don't mind me, I'm not always the sharpest tool. poor greg not getting much joy at either EC or OP, but I seem to remember he was FTD or pretty damn close last time at EC so there is bound to be a few 'offs' when you are pushing that hard. and hey, it is a race car afterall.

just remember if you put front springs in the back your car will now be about 50mm lower in the rear. you may be able to correct with height adjustment, but maybe not. 50mm is a pretty big difference in spring length.

and say no to concrete kids. i still have the sticker somewhere, i'm sure fatz has heaps as he knows all about the wall love.

hang on... which greg are we talking about? and which car?

nasty. well i imagine greg's car would be a bit of a handfull in the wet. and hey you have to find the limit somehow.

thanks mate. on the cable coming out of my PCs card is says molex if that's any help.

which are some of the many reasons I now only use motul chrono 300V, which is ester base, and full synthetic. plus being only a 10/40 does not need nearly so many friction modifiers. it's a great oil.

my advice is when you fish it out of the tank, leave it out. if your fuel cap no longer seals then go to a wrecker and buy a new fuel filler assembley.

that is not the control arm. it's the castor rod/radius rod/tension rod, but definately not the control arm. but basically yes you can either replace the bush, or buy a new adjustable arm, or even just buy some second hand arms.

and kubica is a legend. and a pole too (like me) which makes it even better. go you good thing, just remember to keep those legs tucked up in the cockpit matey and you'll be fine.

well if you guys are nice to me I'll buy a shitload of SA merchandise next time i'm at something motorsporty in japan.

so come on, own up who's got some wall love?

i've been saying for a long time alonso is a wanker. now I can thank him for proving me right.

thanks ni. and yeah it is handy. so much easier working between spreadsheets etc. hell even just browsing two forums at once!

Hi guys, I have for sale a set of tomei pon cams. Type B, 260 degree in/ex and 9.15mm lift in/ex. They are to suit BNR32 RB26 and I believe they are the same part for BCNR33 RB26 too. I have been saving them to use in my car, but I don't need them right now, I need money! So they are for sale, brand new in box. $800 pick-up or + postage to wherever you are. These are probably the most widely used bolt in cam upgrade for GTR. offering increased resposne with larger turbos and still a nice top end gain too. they are well suited to any of the current low mount turbos around from GTSS to GTRS and everything in between, even stockies. Thanks.

don't worry pansy's. baron is all man, baby. zipper is on the front as always captn. i'll get my shit together for PI and see if I can't go down in a blaze of glory.

yeap pretty cheap too. the quantam CR Stage 3 is only around $6500. perhaps I'll buy 2 sets, one just as spares!

al, the worst possible way to warm up a car is to let it sit and idle till it's up to temp. especialyl bad if it's a fresh engine. for any engine the best process is: start car. wait 20secs or so ensure oil pressure is up and everything is cool. start driving. take it fairly gently until oil temp is over 70 and water temp is over 70. then you can give it some stick. so in short the best way to get a car up to temp is by driving it. don't forget your gearbox also need to come up to temp and tha'ts not happening whilst car is idling in garage, same goes for diff (and transfer case if you have one) and brakes etc.

lol @ aragosta being sweedish ohlins. this may come as shock news but so called 'sweedish' ohlins are called ohlins. some may find that hard to believe but trust me on this. aragosta are ok shocks but they have nothing to do with ohlins.

well alonso and kimi both came in the lap before (under that safety car). such a shame as webber for once was actually passing people on track too.

damn, I could have got you a shitload of Super Aguri Merchandise. last time I was in tokyo it was all 50% off!

i've been saying it for over a year now, super aguri is the sh1t. supper coo in japanese. and sato has done the right thing. he's shown over a few years that if you fvk with him he will t-bone you off the track. so now people give him a wide berth which means he's going straight to the top. I still can't believe RBR didn't pit webber under safety car and they fking insane? he would have been looking good for 3rd or 4th. retards.

always rubbish attendance as it's a rubbish track to spectate at. and we were in the midst of some nasty ass weather this weekend. great track to drive though, and not bad on telly either.