Beer Baron

well if you don't have much dough now, buy the pods first. then save and buy boost controller, PFC and tune all together.

webber seems to spend half his racing life stuck behind trulli. FFS just take him OUT mark!

oh mumma! awesome looking drag car. looks like it has all the serious bits to go seriously fast. good luck

the real question is why don't you want a PFC?

well it all comes down to money. how much do you want to spend on your next upgrade? have the cam gear(s?) been set-up on a dyno or are they just sitting at 0? I would reccomend (providing it's in budget). buy high flow filter for your airbox (or pods if you prefer that) buy and fit boost controller and raise boost to 1bar buy PFC get PFC and cam gears tuned on the dyno if you are going to run GT-RS you will need a lot of other gear to go with it and make it work well: 700cc injectors high volume fuel pump dump pipes front pipes intercooler would be a good idea (but not essential) new air flow meters (either VG30s, or nismo) new clutch (either heavy duty single, or multi-plate) more tuning cams and to be honest I don't think GT-RS on a standard 2.6 RB26 will be a very good set-up as you will not be able to push them to their limit on a stock motor. far better to rebuild, and if you are rebuilding I would suggest a 2.8 kit would be wise to go with the GT-RSs. a far better choice would be GT-SS or GT2530, but even still you will need most of that stuff above to get the most out of them.

well i've never really tested it, but they look the same. the fronts are definately the same.

just another thing worth checking is that the sandwhich plate looks to have a thermostat built in which is good. so when engine cold oil goes into filter, then straight back to engine. when oil is hot it will pass through filter, then out to oil cooler and back. may need to check, but the big barrel shape in front of the inlet/outlets is a big hint that it has one.

damn shame greg, sorry I wasn't there this time. I could have crashed mine into something in sympathy. but yeah, shit happens. anytime you enter the track to start a lap it could happen. just most of the time it doesn't thank god.

no worries, well if the dude doesn't call, pm or pick-up today I'll shoot you a pm.

forget measuring the hats. providing you have had no problems with the current set-ups, measure the disks instead, then buy the same ones you have now. look around the edge of the rotor, there may even be a part number visible.

hi guys, sorry for the slow reply. anyway, these are sold pending payment and pick-up. will update if it falls through.

ronin, i reckon 70 is too low. ideally for the 32 you want the temps to stabilise arond 75-85 both water and oil when just cruising around. though it is winter, and you do drive like my little niece on her tricycle so that may explain it.

letting your car idle for 3 mins when cold is doing your engine damage. when it's cold in the morning. hop in, start it. let it idle for maybe 10 seconds or so, then start driving. keep boost down, revs under 3000rpm and load not too much until it's up to temp then go for gold. but letting it sit and idle is the worst you can do to a cold engine.

well if it is camber that is causing the tyre wear then there are only two ways out. raise the car if it's lowered. raising the car will reduce the negative static camber. OR buy some form of camber adjustment for the front. Either adjustable upper arms, or adjustable bushes. but first get the alingment checked so you can figure out what exactly is causing the tyre wear. it could be toe, could be camber. castor rods wont sold the problem. as their name implies they only adjust caster.

to the best of my memory the biggest off the shelf low mount kit for GTR is either one of the tomei kits, or the apexi kits. I thinking the apexi ones. have a look into those if big low mount power is what you crave. but it has to be said HKS GT-RS on a 2.8 will be a pretty nice set-up and easily breeze past 400awkw with all the right bits in place to get it there.

CCT one doesn't either though.

my advice is. if you can avoid splitting them the better off you'll be. once the two sides are split it can be hard to get it to seal again. I would sand blast them with the nipples in. and brake lines on to prevent crap getting inside. then remove the pistons etc and rebuild, then repaint, then refit. all done

a couple of points. avgas is no longer 106. more like 102 or 103. also, a cams passbook is a special fuel permission book, not a cams licence. to get one you need (from the top of my head) a PC or NC licence, and a cams log booked car (to use the fuel in). the write in the book how much you buy etc to prevent abuse of the system. edit: as ronin suggested elf LMS is a better option, and is unleaded, and does not require a licence and passbook to buy it.

thanks for the warning nostrodumbass. lol.

it should also be titled. why not to use a stock flywheel with a heavy duty clutch. all these combos are a recipe for disaster.

????? he didn't say anything about rules in australia vs japan? so what are you talking about?

yeah they will probably increase fees some time. though with all the pounding cct has had the last few years I would say it's a lon way off. and at least if they do jack up fees you can just close the account and go elsewhere. just checked my account. you don't need the quartley mail statement for the claiming, just the email one which is free. so basically no account fee no security deposit min balance is $21 min top-up is $70 extra brackets are $2.20 armband for motor bike is free start-up deposit is only $70 statements for m4/m5 cashback are free by email or internet no 'admin' charge for the times the tag doesn't work (or you left it at home) mmm, think I might cancel the old RTA one and make 'em both CCT ones now. so yeah, it's cheaper than the rta one.

i'm pretty sure they are all the same regarding the claim back scheme. but from memory you have to pay $5.5 per quarter to get the claim-back statement. doesn't bother me so much anymore as I hardly ever use the M4 anyway, and it's pretty cheap. now that the M7 is there it's all M2-m7

these are the costs for the CCT one: Note: The Schedule of Fees may change in accordance with the Pre-paid Toll Account Terms & Conditions (Amounts include GST) 1 Account Registration Fee $0.00 2 Minimum Initial Payment or Minimum Top-Up Payment $70.00 per Tag or Pass 3 Maximum Initial Payment or Maximum Top-Up Payment $750 per Toll Account 4 Minimum Balance 30% of the Initial Payment 5 Maximum Balance $1000 per Toll Account 6 Declined Top-Up Payment Administration Fees: Credit Cards $1.10 Direct Debit $3.85 7 Video Processing Administration Fee: For trips on Cross City Tunnel: Tag Tag detected $0.00/trip Tag not detected $0.00/trip Pass $0.00/trip 8 Account Transaction Statement Fee: (per statement) Delivery by: Internet $0.00 Fax $3.30 Email $0.00 Mail (Cashback quarterly statement) $5.50 Mail (non Cashback statement) $5.50 No statement required $0.00 9 Check Account Balance Fee: Internet or Telephone IVR $0.00 10 Tag Licence Fee: $0.00 per month until 30 June 2011 11 Tag Replacement Fee: $44.00 12 Merchant Services Fees: Visa, Mastercard, Bankcard 0% Amex 3.1% Diners 2.1% 13 Additional Tag Mounting Bracket Fee: $2.20 includes postage and handling 14 Motorcycle Tag – Armband Supplied free and there you go adam, motorbike armband supplied free

RTA one has a larger security deposit which of course you wont be getting back for a very long time. and when I bought them the RTA tag was more expensive too.