Beer Baron

dont worry, skaife is not short of a quid. or people willing to give him one!

as long as it's not raining I will!

the people I know in japan have pretty varied jobs actually. I know a few english teachers (mostly through SAU) one friend works for an american investment bank one guy exports cars and parts one guy works in the US military one guy works in a french investment bank one guy works for a japanese car dealer one girl works for a phone company (docomo) one girl works at the airport one girl has various jobs one guy exports cars (in a different part of JP) one guy works in his dads company (lazer cutting, robotic welding etc) one girl is a waitress in a nice restaurant one guy works for IT with Nissan I don't know what most of them earn but some of them get pretty decent money (around 1100man PA). some of these guys are japanese though, but there is no reason you couldn't get similar jobs working with foreing companies that operate in japan.

good to see you 'manned up' and went with the 1.5mm toe. it make a massive difference to the front end feel. i love it. perfect for drift.

you can buy a S3 lip from nissan. just be sitting down when you ask the price.

looks good pauly. glad it's all coming together for you

yes, he is definately from kuwait, but enough talking about bkc, yes I know you all love him.

well bkc. here are a few tips for you. cams will generally reduce your idle quality (lumpy idle, and you will most likely have to raise it to 1000 or even 1100 rpm to get it stable) cams will generally reduce your fuel economy cams will generally increase your emissions now, please note I said 'generally' not always. mild cams will not have a marked effect. by far the most popular choice in aus at the moment for RB26 running between 400 and 600hp would be Tomei Poncams Type B (260/260, 9.15/9.15). If you are running around 600hp they would be a good, safe choice.

they wont be looking at peoples cars to give specific advice. it's just a general info session. so yeah it doesn't matter if you come by skyline, swift, scooter or skateboard.

it's pretty much like this. but you'll have to just follow the signs.

the one that has a sign saying daikoku PA. like I posted earlier: "yes, but you want daikoku PA. in the middle of the spirally bit. basically if coming from tokyo you'll be coming from the left of that map, then you'll go around like a corkscrew (clockwise) to get down to daikoku PA."

what you mean is: "is it better to have the same lift and duration on both the inlet cam and exhaust cam" the answer to that question is: "maybe" it depends on your goals for the car: power response emissions fuel economy stable idle turbo choice tell us (or even better tell your tuner) how you stand on those issues, then they can recomend a cam choice for you.

well for 300kw I don't think it's neccesary to change the oil pump. look at the cost properly: new pump (jun,greddy,whatever) $1200 external oil drain $300 oil restrictor $10 head gasket $250 sump baffles/enlarged sump $500 proper oil pressure gauge $300 crank collar + fitting $300 REMOVE AND REPLACE ENGINE $800 REMOVE AND REPLACE HEAD $400 a total of nearly $4000 just to have an aftermarket pump installed and working properly. that's a lot of dough just to protect a standard RB26... now whilst you have gone to all this trouble to replace the oil pump tell me, now that you have the head off doesn't it make sense to install some forged pistons? if you are going pistons doesn't it make sense to get some new rods too. if you are getting new rods now you need new bearings. now you have just rebuilt your RB26 and have spent $10K and not even done your mods yet. so I'll say it again. for small low mount turbos, running around the 300kw mark replacing the oil pump is not the best use of your money. edit: forgot crank collar.

I think N1 is short for TRD.

Thanks Jono, I should have mentioned it, but it either slipped my mind, or I think last time I spoke to Neil we hadn't confirmed what we were doing exactly bbq wise.

no it's not.. lol anyway, I don't think your labour price was that far out, except for the fuel pump. god damn. remove and drain tank? you just open the inspection port and clip it in. takes about 1 hour tops if you have never done it before. next time is 30 mins. oil pump I think is a waste of money with his current upgrades. cost of around $1200 for a good one, and when using a high flowing pump it's worth while fitting baffles, and you will NEED to add an oil return from the head, and block or reduce the oil feeds to the head (all this together would be a couple of grand installed). forget the oil pump at this stage of mods.

lol, surely you are kidding? yes they fit. There must be hundreds of 32 GTRs in aus with them on.

lol, troy is always getting done over by BSM! hehe. hmm, personally I kind of miss the black colour scheme, but was too polite to say so.... till now.

nice one dave! mmm he is such a good pilot. nice to see them back on top. and a new paint scheme too... congratulations. are they still running in CT too?

yeah there are always some nasty crashes at pukekohe. how's the f**king bumps approaching the fast right hander on the front straight!?! crazy. I wann see my old mate skaife handing out some punishment, but he's going nowhere atm.

ok, well on the 34 brembo front. dave has convinced me heli-coil is the way to go. the dude at coventry of course told me it couldn't be done. but i've done some research and it seems coilthread make an insert 12X1.25 which require a hole size between 14.3 and 15.0 which should be perfect. I'll just run their tap through the current thread a few times and it should be apples. now, does anyone have a M12X1.25 heli-coil kit I can borrow? (I'll buy the 4 coils I need seperate), I have a 10mm kit somewhere (with tap, drill bit, install mandrel tool) but none of it will be any use for the 12mm coils.

forecast for wednesday: Possible shower Min: 16°C Max: 21°C let's hope that possible shower doesn't eventuate.

they do look a bit off. the mesh in particular just looks like it was poorly made, not damaged.

looks good. best of luck

JGTC (well Super GT) have inlet restrictors as well as minimum weights. they don't add weight based on power though, they have a success balast system to add weight based on results (or remove weight based on lack of!). they have a matrix for minimum weights. this is based on type of engine, engine position, driveline.