Beer Baron

yep it's repairable. talk to bilstein in sydney. they have all the facilities to do it. http://www.bilstein.com.au/

it's a bit hard to compare as most the classes for production cars but with fairly free engine and gearbox rules don't run road tyres, they run slicks. and the records list doesn't state what tyres any of those records are. something like prod sports, or nations cup etc is kind of there i guess, but again they all run slicks which would be a fair advantage.

R888s are ok, but i would go for the GG compound.

zereo 1 are a cusco product. either these area copy of them (possible) or they abbreviated cusco to csc (unlikely as all cusco sus parts i've seen say cusco) or the third possibility is that they have been read wrong. I'm leaning towards them being cusco copies.

i would get the UAS ones. they are the best I've seen. motul RBF600 for the fluid

you sure they don't say "CUSCO" Zero 1?

they are slightly different calipers, but use the same size pads. the GTR rotors are bigger, 296mm vs 280mm for the GTST ones. rears are 297mm GTR vs I don't know what for GTST (think they may be 297mm too). if you want to swap to GTR set-up you will need GTR calipers and GTR rotors. that should be it,.

you can get it repaired for anywhere from $50-$100. expect around $80. tempe tyres does it, but they jerked me around a bit last time. i'm sure most tyre shops either do it, or know where to send it.

+45 will fit but will look pretty gay. I would be looking more around the +30-+35 option and just get 17X9 or 18X9 all round. save you many hassles.

yes the covers will fit.

yeah, like i thought they are basically 'wet compound' or good for 'khana.

SG is the "super soft" compound. G is hard GG is medium GGG is soft SG is super soft

well GGG are the softs, I would say SG are probably even softer, like maybe a wet compound, or motokhana compound. ie, desinged to come up to temp very quickly. i wouldn't worry about it too much, but if you were buying again I'd say go the G or GG.

yes the green one is no mean feat. a S1 S14 already looks a lot like an S1 R33. prerry much all you need to do is put the skyline badge on it and you're done...

hmm, i'm not familliar with SG. When I last used the toyos there was G, GG and GGG. GGG was softest from memory. SG maybe one compound i'm not familiar with.

he mate, you just asked this question, and it was answered. YES YOU CAN. thread closed, and warning increased. heed this advice, starting another thread today on a topic that has been covered many, many times is going to earn you a temporary ban, or moderation of all your posts for a while.

it's goone. sold over the weekend.

apollo, what compound are they?

get the new flywheel.

maybe the stainless inlet pipe has made your car slower/less powerful? I mean if that's the only thing you've changed and your power has gone down... how does it feel to you?

nice. glad you can hang up that N1 pump on the wall where it belongs... yeah, i'm trying to coax john out, but he is a bit unsure as it may be a bit too cold for his cardigan. don't worry i'll get him out there.

jess, now that you have another car you or andrew should enter.

i would avoid the t-bolt clamps b-man. they are ok, but mainly just work by exerting a shitload more pressure on things. having that much force can damage the joiners and sometimes the pipes themselves, partically the cast alloy pipes. the wiggans clamps are good shit but very pricey, and not sure they are really designed to work with 'normal' style piping and silicone joiners. I would reccomend the sard dual bead clamps. they look like a normal hose clamp, but have 2 sealing beads so less force is required on them to maintain a good seal, and they don't damage your hoses.

sounds pads have a wear 'indicator' which will squel when the pad is worn enough to allow the indicator to touch the rotor. just get your head in there and take a look.

sounds magic.