Beer Baron

most cotton filters can be washed. foam filters like HKS etc cannot be washed. when washing them be sure to have the water flowing from the inside of the pod to the outside (otherwise you will be ingraining dirft into the filter). a small bit of soap (not much) in warm water is the go. or use the K+N filter cleaning kit.

i'm not 100% sure what constitutes solid info, but it's on the 16th and is $120, all day. as posted earlier.

done, done and done.

i'm pretty sure the standard 33 GTR size is 235/45/17, but either way it's bugger all difference. the speedo is only accurate to about 10% to begin with so i wouldn't worry too much.

nice work cardigan man! 1:06 is spot on what you were aiming for. giant is an animal, must be all those go fast bits you've sold him! perhaps a few more GTR bits into your zed and it will go even quicker. even more surprising is that you are only 1 second slower than the pro driver, he must have been having an off day.. hehehe. you know i love you. i joke out of love.

rock out with ya clock out.

as for things I wish I had done in japan: drive my friend tuned 34 GTR at fuji speedway (well doing it next time) go to the tokyo fish maket (do it next time too) do some bonsai classes travel up north a bit, maybe as far as sapporo. other than that i've done more that i ever would have imagined. so no regrets at all.

yeah shopping in japan nails you. not last trip, but the trip before in november last year I went to the sony building in ginza. they had just released a new T series lap top. carbon fibre shell, just 1.2 kilos (inc battery), 9 hour battery life etc. so of course we bought one, but the farkin thing cost nearly 30man! it had been released for just 3 days when we bought it which was cool. and i think it only just came out in aus, but cost around $4K here. I have spent so much in japan it's not funny. it's a danger when buying stuff with money that is not your native currencey it doesn't seem as 'real'. I had out 1man notes like they are going out of fashion when I'm in japan, but in aus there is no way i'd be shelling out that kind of cash every day.

ah, well depending on how strict your SEVS workshop is you will need to buy the original nissan/brembo pads. the front pads are 41060-12U87 and the rear pads are 44060-12U87 cost around $450 for front and same for the rear. they are quite good pads though, so it's not a complete waste of money. last a long time, and good for street/hillls driving. and ok for a little bit of track.

who cares what nengun says? trust me. 32 brembo, 33 brembo and 34 brembo all use the same pad.

yes they are the same as 33 and 34 brembos.

if you do buy they core and lines from earls make sure you get someone with a trade account to buy it for you. earls trade price is retail - 40%...

waste of time. do not buy it. danger danger will robinson.

you are not quite breaking new ground here. there are hundreds, probably thousansds of GTR around the world making 450rwkw. they have been done all different ways, RB30, RB31, RB28, RB27, RB29, RB26, Big single, big twins, low mount twins, low mount single, ball bearing single, in 32, 33 and 34 GTR. And you ask anyone who has a reliable, and healthy 450kw and they will tell you $20K to get the ball rolling and then up to another $10K to make the package really nice. don't forget a 450rwkw car needs some good brakes, needs some good suspension, need a decent fuel system, need a big radiator, needs a big intercooler, needs good tuning (and lots of time spent on doing it), need a good igntion system, needs an engine built by someone who knows what they are doing, needs some smart oil control mods, needs a gearbox upgrade, needs good tyres, needs good gauges. it needs money most of all. it doesn't matter if your mate is a top mechanic and engine builder. my best friend is a engineer and mechanic who runs his own shop and has for year, doesn't mean i'd expect him to build me a motor for free. 450rwkw is an admirable goal in a GTR, but it's a shit load of power and needs a serious wallet to back it up. there are a few guys on here with 450rwkw+ i'm sure they will tell you some tales of cost vs benefit. you will find lots and lots of guys between 250 and 300rwkw. not a lot of cost to get there. then some more guys with 300-350 kw (quite a lot more cost than the 300 guys) then a few more who've gone the extra little bit to 350-400kw. but there are even fewer sitting at 450kw and hardly any at 500rwkw. there is a reason for it. the cost grows exponentially and the enjoyment sometimes doesn't as the car becomes less usable, even on the track.

yeah thanks for the input guys. $500 is on the money. I know I wont be selling mine cheaper than my current asking price. They cost well over $1000 new and perform so well for what they are. plus they keep potential defects away as to the untrained eye they look completely standard and sit in the standard location.

well that's a start. a reliable 450kw costs around $20-$25K.

you need to do a lot more research. why wouldn't it work with a power FC? how does the power FC know what size stroke your crank has? or what size bore you have? the head is still the same. the sensors are all still the same. remember the ecu just controls fuel, and spark (well obviously a few other little things too). it doesn't care about RB30, or RB31 or RB27 or RB28 etc. i have to be honest. it seems like you have made your mind up. by all means go with the RB30, or the stock 26 build. but like I said if you are buying all new engine parts anyway the 2.8 kits are a good option and nearly all the top street and time attack cars in japan are now running 2.8...

you would have to say it looks like the roll cage saves 2 lives. it looks like some very hard impacts on the roof. send a thank you note to the dude that welded the roll cage! such a shame, but that's tarmac rally for you.

fair enough. sorry my bad. but it doesn't change my opinion. you are getting a lot more value for $$ I think with the 2.8 litre vs rebuilding with a new stock crank. the best cars I've been in were japanese 2.8 litre strokers.

toshi, if you have a wideband AFR meter are you interested in doing a little tuning on my GTR? It's running a power FC, but I just want have the lower part of the map looked at for better economy. it's not running in closed loop properly due to fauly 02 sensors, so I want to turn off 02 feedback and just tune the 'cruise' area of the map manually.

you might need to check that crank price. I have a feeling the nissan crank is a fair whack more than $1K. but yeah the rest is about right. not sure where you got the 2.8 litre prices but last time i checked them they were much less than that. but it's up to you. RB30 is a good option. lots of power and torque. having been in both I prefer the 2.8 though.

lol, i will go out and you can just keep your eyes on my rear end to learn the track. I notice you can't take your eyes off it when we are not on the track, so this method will probably work well for you. butt burgler. bang a gong we are on!

not really. around $5K for a kit including a 2.8 crank, good rods, good pistons, good rings. now price up: set of pistons set of rods set of rings new R33 crank. I would say that will touch $5K easily if you are buying good parts, and you now still have a 2.6...

yeah, it's an 04 model i think. i'll see if i can find a pic. it's a good daily kind of car. can fit plenty of tools and crap in the back. tows well. can fit 4 or 5 people in it easily. has good head room. and it looks kind of like a mini hummer in black... lol ok i'm dreaming. the gun set-up seems to be an F250 or some other F series but sadly they are far too much dough.

glad you finaly binned the alsd