89CAL

Should be right if you just pushed the pistons back in. Unless it ran out of fluid when you were pumping the pistons back out. If the fluid level was still O.K after the pistons were pushed back out then just top it up and it will be fine. Get some water and wash the brake fluid, should only need water

Not necessarily. The voltage range sounds OK so no reason why you can't just go off the commander. There is a procedure for adjusting idle screw also. Have to unplug something. Can't think what at the moment

Hurray I'm helping

Look Measurements and everything http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4x-Neo-Wedge-LED-Bulbs-T3-T4-T5-White-Blue-Red-Green-/110460423099?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19b7f44bbb Shows T3, T4 and T5 sizes (base socket) so should be able to match up the part you have out to the part that you need

So....... Whats new?

Fix TPS, you may need to do a data init and do the idle re-learn, which shouldnt be a problem if you have datalogit. As suggested above play with the idle settings, this is easier to do in FC-Edit as you can adjust them more then just on the unit itself If you have a wideband (or even without one) try to richen the tune up around the idle cells. Easier with a wideband cause you can aim for around 14:1 AFR (they seem to idle a bit nicer around here) and play with the timing. Mine runs better at 20 degrees all around idle

Left is T10 BTW

Photos? I've always thought about doing something like this but never have the time to plan it etc

In a way yes, but its not its primary purpose on the GTT + GTST's. The GTR might be different but because I havent seen the undertrays on them. anyway, they will probably provide a slight Aerodynamic benefit but as far as I'm aware (and I'm happy to be proven wrong) their main purpose is keeping rocks/objects/some water out of the engine bay as well as removing turbulant air from the engine bay. Thinking about it like this I'd say your probably right and it would provide an Aerodynamic benefit, but hard to say really how much. The main reason for keeping turbulant air out of there is for cooling efficency im pretty sure

Alot of times it creates more efficient air flow through the radiator by removing a high pressure area at the rear below the radiator. That is air from below the radiator at the back has something spltopping it from going upwards. With the cover air goes straight under the car and through the radiator. I don't think it matters a great deal but should help with the under tray in If its already off might be a good time to do a test. With and without the undertray

Just as an FYI. The S1 and S2 power window switches have different plugs. Not sure if you have a S1 it S2 but just a heads up Engine loom is the same as S1 bar the coil pack loom? Pretty sure it unplugs and the rest is interchangeable but not 100% If it will work in an S1 I might be interested

Ah OK. If not for the tweeter bracket I'd probably be interested. My fronts both have small tears in the trim so I'm half on the lookout for good standard ones. Have 2 with tweeter holes in them I'm not sure I want to use. More money to buy new front splits if I do lol

I still get black smoke with 18psi and 11.5:1ish AFR's at full load. Go back and get some dyno sheets (assuming it was done on a dyno) it should be saved and they can bring up high speed air fuel ratio.

what condition?

I'm hoping all my picks were changed...... Think I'll have been lucky to have got any right haha

Damn its hard avoiding any Formula 1 talk while I'm out at work till I get home to see the race Now I can join the conversation too late..... Wooooo Bit more exciting race, lots of action. Lotus doing a good job, Grosjean starting to show his true potential.

best way to tell if its on the way out is put it in a high gear at low speed and put your foot down. If it starts slipping then you need a new clutch, if not then keep using it if you want 5th gear, 40kmh, foot down. usually does the trick

Looks and sounds crazy. Well done guys. Hektick few seconds in the drivers seat that is

Yeah I had Alonso as well. Think its going to be another round of fail for me haha

Well there you go.... lol

Should be able to just block them off at each end. This is one of the things I'm waiting to play with when my old engine comes out and I prep the new engine for install. I have a HEL oil cooler kit but it was a pain dealing with them. Good quality setrab cooler and thermostatic sandwich plate. I think the grex sandwich plates are very similar and I'd go one of them with a good cooler and lines

The ECU runs a 'cold start' map where it will inject more fuel and slightly reduce timing. This is designed to warm the car up quicker If you start your car when its at ambient temperature then you should notice it smells more fuely out the exhaust and revs slightly higher. This means its in the cold start map. Having an AFR gauge shows this in greater detail The Nismo thermostat is designed for motor sport as said, because the car will always be under load and revving then it needs some help cooling the engine. Its a bit like the Nismo water pump. Not really an upgrade unless its going to going near the rev limiter frequently. Both items should not be needed in a street car. Most of what I said has already been said previously. If everything is working efficiently in your cooling system and your getting temps in the 80's then there is no problems at all. I run a fully standard cooling system and it has never had an issue. Even when I've been out at the drags, temps have never been high enough to cause concern

Push and pull refers to the clutch engagement. Nothing to do with gear selection. I'm using an SR20 shifter in mine so I don't see why they would change the design of the 25 boxes if even an sr20 one will fit

Can't get adjustable camber tops for R33. Its not how you adjust the camber on them