89CAL

7on 7off Are you positively annoyed friend? EDIT: apparently SAU has auto correct haha

Having a strange Issue today The main forum page does not show up at all, address is right and everything, the portal works, and all the sub-sections work just not the main forum page. It just comes up with a blank white screen But if I log off it works fine, so its only when I am logged on in this account :S Pretty sure I can still post and everything fine, so its just the main forum page.

cops no, humps not really My car isnt stupid low, its lowered but not to much. I've bent the brackets coming out of a bad driveway but as long as your careful its not a big deal. If you drive to protect your front bar then its not really much different to protect the back from my experience with it. You're aware its there so you drive a bit more careful

Yeah I know lol ill organise it when I get back from work next wednesday

Ah yes I forgot about 26 head bolts being bigger. Umm I spent $40 for the pack of 10 and I was just gonna give them out at $5 a set or something. I'll keep them till I know I don't need them (head should go on the block in the next 2 weeks) then you can have them for $10 I'll let you know, didn't expect anyone to be that keen on the lot lol

my only concern with tyrepower is that one of the guys there when moving my car asked if it had a stall kit........ If anyone is doing any engine work I have 8 x head to block dowels that I dont need, had to buy a pack of 10 so have some left over. Nissan don't stock them so if anyone is in need of some let me know they will fit RB20-25-26-30 AFAIK and probably also SR and CA motors

I have Phils old diffuser with N1 GTR pods and its not an issue. They are for GTR's after all

It doesnt really have anything to do with the cluster. As far as I know the fuel level in the tank is moitered by a variable resistor which sends a different voltage to the gauge depending on the level. The gauge just displays this, if you had a problem previously it was either a dodgy gauge or something went wrong with the level sensor. same thing as when you fill up from empty, the gauge stays at empty till you turn the car on then it slowly rises to full once the voltage is read at the cluster. I've unplugged my cluster heaps of times and it definetly doesnt have to be 'set'

End result attatched Crazy how much damage fire can do

Yeah jokes aside its not real cool at all, the fact that it was young girls setting fire to a toy shop a few weeks from christmas makes it pretty horrible When I was 12 I never would have dreamt of doing that, Parenting these days has taken a slide for the worst

Where will I buy overpriced parts now? Sorry Phil if your visiting this thread

Open the bonnet and check it?

Your right

Update on Turbo from Stao (hypergear) Heres some parts of my turbine housing. He just has to weld up the int gate hole:

Everyone should stop talking about finishing their cars off and actually do it I want to do some more photo's Took the fitting out of the filter/cooler housing on my block today, going to go chasing a replacement male to male fitting for it on monday for my oil cooler. Was going to relocate the filter but have decided I don't really need to and dont really have the room Am thinking about doing a catch can setup but. just deciding on how to do it

No thread about this, think everyone has gone off COD But here's a thread anyway Thoughts? I'll get it, I still play MW3 every now and then. Good for a bit of fun. Return of Zombies will be good

Torque plate/head will make a little difference, not sure how far out you are but so hard to say for sure if thats why, I dont think it will affect it too much taper of 0.01, you said you have a cheap dial bore gauge, is it possible that this is the reason? How much did he have to take out of the bores? or was it just a hone? If he's had to take a couple of thou out of the bores (to go up piston sizes etc) then i would be a little annoyed if your measurements are spot on anyway

If its got both oil feeds still feeding oil to the head then that will be a big part of your problem. Solid heads need far less oil then hydraulic. I would Def think twice about going back to that engine builder. Sounds like it was just slapped together with no real thought put into it

Search pro bolt for pretty aluminium ones like this:

This ^ Stock rods would have been enough for 400hp and spool rods Def would have been fine Getting nitto rods just to be on the safe side is rediculous at that power level

The cam cover bolts are m6 The valley cover bolts are m5

m5 x 15 i think?

what? timing affects combustion of the engine, it has nothing to do with the blowby or lubrication system This theory is a bit odd to me

I'd say he sounds a bit dodgy and wouldnt be using that mechanic anymore You need to find out what oil pump was installed and go from there. If he hasnt installed restrictors and has installed a bigger pump then that will be your problem It could really be a number of things, you need to go pry some information out of him

haha nah have a plan for the 2 cam caps, just have to see if it works, will require minor machining As far as I'm concerned the 34 CAS is a much better item then the mitsu one. I've seen how the mitsu ones work but havent had a Hitachi one apart