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Chris: I was gonna run the 34 CAS in mine (I'm pretty sure they do the same thing in GTR's, switch from Mitsubishi to Hitachi for the R34's) They are rebuildable from what I've found out and less likely to flog out the bearings. I've seen quite a few mitsubishi ones (including my old one, and think my new one is going the same way) that have had stuffed bearings, you can hear it when it rotates. My old CAS would only turn one way easily by hand and sounded horrible I've gone for the mitsubishi again, but I ordered a new one from the USA. I'd go the Hitachi (newer type) CAS if you are willing to spend the money on Cams and CAS GOOD NEWS! The head I have now has matching Cam caps, so my Poncams spin freely now Also seems like the cam tunnel is in a bit nicer condition (not that the other head was that bad) Have fitting the head drain to the new one, so engine should be going forward now: I'm going to repair the old head, so if/when this works out I will have a stock head for sale just as a heads up for anyone who might want one in the future

your hitting the limiter on a stock ECU, its no suprise it shooting flames. They do run 'safely' rich especially if your hitting R&R I would stop smashing the limiter as for the 4.5k rpm problem, checked your plugs and your coilpacks?

Spool should be plenty unless you want to lash out on Nittos, 400hp isnt that big a goal for forged rods

Yeah but there not waiting to recieve it to send out a new one which is something i guess

They are going to replace it and supply a thermostatic sandwich plate. So getting somewhere at least

yeah do this, way better then cutting and making it worse

205 you mean? Got a response from HEL, there going to exchange the oil cooler for me and the sandwich plate as well. He told me that he didn't send me a thermostatic one because I'm in a hot climate so didnt think I would need it. BIt dodgy that they didn't ask this question and assumed it was a good idea to let the oil warm up slowly. Show's what they know But at least they are going to do something about it. Said he would send the cooler today (their time) so I'm just waiting for a response about if they can send the sandwich plate with it, because I'm going to need that sooner then the oil cooler.

Looks like they sent the wrong kit because of the generic thermostat. So they will be sending me a new kit or giving me my money back. The last email I sent wasn't so harsh but if they come back with a stupid answer they'd better have a language filter on their end In hindsight, yes I should have just got a sandwich plate and then ebay-ed the rest, but the kit + delivery cost $460 so it was a pretty good price (or so it seemed) The fact that they werent interested at all in replacing it unless it was in a state where it would leak really pissed me off. That is absoloutly piss poor service. It's their fault its damaged cause they did a shit job of packing it so I shouldnt be paying the price for there mess

Nah its a HEL kit from the U.K Setrab cooler

So heres how my Oil cooler turned up: Not real happy and they have sent me a universal Sandwich plate without a thermostat in it when its supposed to be a thermostatic sandwich plate. There opinion of the oil cooler when I sent them a photo was 'it should be O.K' and since I've looked at it they can shave that excuse up there ass. I'm not prepared to risk my engine if it one day decides to spit oil out the tube thats been hit. Pretty poor on their part, was all just chucked in a box and sent over to me with no packing in the box

better photo:

Not to sure yet going to look around Power FC + HC, possibly boost control kit if it doesnt fit the new one but 99% sure it is the same connector. I'll ask around $1000 at the moment, if I discover its worth less I might lower it but there still pretty well in demand and I dont think I'll have any trouble selling it at that price The ECU case is slightly marked but nothing major and the hand controller is in pretty good condition, only what you'd expect any HC to look like, no major scratcnes or marks Version? Not sure, think 2.20E but that could be a random version of something else I'm just remembering

I've pretty much just bought a new version of the ECR33 Power FC so if anyone is interested in my old one when the new one gets here let me know There is nothing wrong with it, its just an early version and is a little slower with updating data. So its only a little slow while tuning which isn't a big deal I just found a good offer on a brand new Power FC

Hey Phil, I need to ask from your vast knowledge about the HEL products if you have any photos of the sandwhich plate that came with your oil cooler kit I've been shafted big time by them as it looks like I've just been sent a generic sandwhich plate, and theres a nice big dint (nearly a hole) in my oil cooler because they didnt put in packing in the box and all the brackets rolled around and F#@#ed $hit up. And better still they don't want to replace it insisting that it shouldn't leak and will be fine The sandwhich plate I have has no thermostat as far as I can see and that was the big selling point of the HEL kit, and it is definently advertised as having one. Looking through your old thread now but thought you might have some good photos anyway So thats my rant, hows Townsville treating everyone haha EDIT: Heres the damage that they think "Should be O.K". Regardless of that its pretty poor that they wont replace it with this type of damage on it brand new:

hey mate, sorry but I found one locally. Thanks anyway

Quoted for pic height It's a very cool photo Jay

Yeah I think I asked some questions as well but it seems to have been forgotten was going to PM STATUS but doesnt look like he accepts PM's Just wait and see I guess. I might be getting one so hopefully my laptop will talk to it

Yeah my standard rb25 restrictors were 2mm by looking at them. Def bigger then the 1.5's I got anyway

tried a good exhaust shop?

Oil will bleed itself just make sure you check and top up after you startup the car Coolant, yes. Fill the radiator off, crack the bleed screw and leave it running with the radiator cap off. top up with coolant when the thermostat opens and you can see coolant flowing through the radiator. make sure you fill it and no more bubbles come out of the bleed screw

A friend of mine used to have a 32 and we sspent a while one night with an issue with his lights. Think it was similar. Only 1 low beam or both low beams were off but high beams worked. Ended up being something in the indicator stalk (high beam part of it of course) From what I know they go bad with age because of the way the are designed

The only thing worth really worrying about is the synchro The auto function on the windows: is it anything like the 33's where it gets dry solder in the control box for it? cause thats an easy fix Door locks: how do they keep playing up? Fuel gauge: not a real big deal, sender or cluster Mirrors auto fold in: Really? just cause there slow? lol The problems are pretty minor, and you'll probably end up losing money for a car that might develop the exact same problems and you'll be right back where you started, or worse

It sounds to small for the Turbo you will be running Rob

I cant get anywhere near the AI on legend at hungaroring (career in Williams) Got my setup a little wrong but still can't work out where they are making up all the time

Tomei cams have tomei written on them. Think they have lift written on there as well (have a part number or specs, cant remember but have some sitting in the shed)