89CAL

A 6 cell battery at 2.1v per cell = 12.6v. with car off this is a good reading. You need to get a carbon pile test done to tell you the health of your battery. mine had 12ish volts but was wrecked. only load testing would show this. Or checking voltage while cranking OP have you checked the alternator wiring yet?

The click might be from the relay for the fuel pump. Are your injectors clicking when its cranking? Might be a CAS problem if so

Ah ok. Yeah it could be. Check the connections to the alternator. There should be a 2 pin (from memory) connector thats for the activation of the altenator. Check all the earths etc as well. My Girlfriends mum has a similar problem with her mazda 3. Sometimes the battery light comes on and theres no charge from the alternator. See what you can find. Just trace as many wires as you can. If you've got a multi meter to test stuff as well probably a good idea

Raise the idle up to 850rpm and see if it fixes the problem. 700rpm is a bit to low anyway

ttorrent (app) and a good bit torrent site. I have ttorrent but I havent used it yet, Alot of my friends use it out on site to download and watch movies

Is that sarcasm? :S Yeah as GTSBoy said, alot of issues occur because of incorrect steering boss kit or boss kit fitted wrong. I had the second issue with mine when I got mine. I put it on with the wrong section engaging the HICAS Prong so the boss kit had about 2 or so degrees of play before it actually engaged the HICAS hub. So car still felt the same, but as soon as I hit 80km/h, HICAS light came on. Didnt really notice any issues with the cars steering etc but mine is a 33 with the Electric HICAS so it works a bit different. Check you dont have the same issue as I had, otherwise it might just be easy to pull the whole thing out as said. I havent looked back since removing mine.

Try emailing this guy? Ebay - F1 Performance Sub boxes It looks like might be the same place under a new name.... not sure but

CV's? Diff? Can you get it on a hoist to check out suspension parts to rule that out? So is it a constant repetative thump or just a single thump when backing off?

About $760 delivered I think mine was

I got this one off ebay. I cant find the seller but he made them for heaps of different cars Its probably not the best design but it fits pretty nice

Sounds like your alternator is working fine for the voltages while driving along. You can get your battery tested at an Auto Elec's shop using a carbon pile tester or whatever they use at that shop. Will tell you if the battery is stuffed or not. what is your idle RPM? It seems a bit weird that it only has the issue when idling. I wouldnt assume that the alternator is spinning to slow at idle but if your RPM is really low, it might be a problem. Still not convinced though so when your idling and turn the high beams on it stalls? or does it nearly stall? try sitting in neutral giving it a few revs and turning the high beams on, leave the revs up for a bit then let it to return to idle. Just to see what happens, if its the sudden load at the low RPM or if its just not producing enough amps at that speed to charge the battery.

Cranking volts tell alot of the story, only one you missed out ^ Other then that, looks about right, not much variation is good.

Hmmm.... Does it have a window type thing with a colour indicator showing the condition of the battery? If it truly is maintenance free then you cant check the water level, what sort of battery is it?

Hmmmm it shouldnt drop that much when turning the high beams on. I had to put a new battery in mine yesturday and thought the charging voltage was low so was turning lights on and off. It only dropped momentarily (only by 0.4v or so at the most) and then went back to its charging voltage. Check the wiring for your high beams if its only when using the high beams it seems to cause the problems. 13v shouldnt cause anything to drop out either. Id expect that to happen more around 8v or so. Somethings wrong there. Check your water level in your battery, and check your wiring, especially around your head lights

Yeah you should be able to hear the relay click off after a short delay. I'm not 100% sure on the stock ECU, but it may just be to save Crank position and general state of the car when it turns off to help with startup But I dont know for sure, havent had a stock ECU for a while now

My god are you drunk? Spelling is all over the shop Changing the FPR settings doesnt increase the flow from the pump, it changes the restriction to flow from the pump. Your pump flows the same, the FPR changes the pressure (How much fuel is allowed to get through) Guage sounds like it's in the right spot to read the fuel pressure correctly. Fuel pressure should be the same between the fuel filter and FPR. Unless your gauge is faulty as suggested?

Check the water level inside the battery as well. And as above check your terminals. If everything was 100% before hand then I wouldnt expect the battery or alternator to be completely dead afterwards, especially the alternator Just check everything, start at the battery and work your way to the alternator

yeah sounds pretty normal.... Thats a bit of a strange one. I thought maybe your HICAS was unplugged (somehow) before and your steering was heavier then it should have been and now is back to normal but I'd say you would have had a HICAS warning. Whats the state of your power steering oil? Maybe it had something blocking some of the flow to/from the pump and its coincedentally cleared during your service. I dunno lol it seems a bit weird that its gotten lighter when you havent touched it.....

Use this: Engine ECU Diagrams (Thanks Paulr33) Bee-R Rev Limiter Fitting Guide Or do the smart thing and sell it. I dont see the point in putting it in a non-turbo R33....unless you dont like your engine

Was your HICAS light on before? or is it on now? I know it has more of an effect in R32's but I know it can do some funny things in 33's to

Agree, Spa is my favourite track on the calender, and the changeability in the weather over the circuit makes for some exciting races. Why Paul Ricard? What about Magny-Cours? I don't even remember why they took it off the calender... Financial reasons I'm thinking for some reason?

What spark plugs and what gap? Has it been running extra rich?

Mods? Changed anything lately? Can the car drive just fails at certain RPM? Provide as much extra info as you can.

35 profile refers to the tyre wall. without offsets we can't help, but have to agree with above. I had 19's on my R33 for a while, and they were big enough, went down to 18's, much better size

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