89CAL

Dont bother with the turbosmart one. Turbotech ones are cheaper on ebay and work really well. If you want to spend $50 on a turbosmart boost controller I'll sell you my dual stage, but Seriously I would just do the high boost mod so it runs 7psi all the time and leave it at that till you get an aftermarket ECU. I've been there, done that.

Or could have wired it to the illumination wire? Lol

2 & 3: anyone's guess. some people can go 10Psi no worries. i could only get 8psi. power wise depends as well. while you got a stock ecu id just do the high boost (constant 7psi) mod and be done with it. Get an aftermarket ecu then boost to 12psi and as said you will get up near 200rwkw

i would reset the timing afterwards. its a good time to do it and doesnt really take that long

Still for komatsu. just for a few more dollars And im only on my first night out here. don't know anyone haha

Oh dear....

O.K sounds a bit like you have a short going on. Sounds like your headlight wire and brake wire are touching somewhere and when you put your foot on the brakes the power going to the headlights finds an easier path of resistance and takes the brake circuit. Is it a case of every single time the headlights go out it coincides with the brakes being pressed or does it happen at any other time? if so you might need to check the voltage at your brakes with the headlights off then get someone to turn them on and see if the voltage changes at all. You really just need to check as much as you can. The short idea is just a guess, Hard to say without looking

The bushes in the camber correction kits are for the arms. the hub doesn't house any bushes for the 2 upper control arms in the rear Or where you talking fronts? Im not to sure about them. but i think all the rear bushes are in the arms, well i know mine were when i put my camber bushes in. has helped but. Rears don't wear nearly as much. But i think camber arms are the easier option

I only managed 138rwkw with usual mods + 8psi. They simply dont make the power without a tune. with my stock turbo i was making 195rwkw by adding power FC + front facing plenum and 12psi at the last stage before I upgraded to my current turbo Your dyno printout shows where its dropping power because the ECU will be pulling timing out and adding fuel to stop what it thinks will damage the engine Do you have a printout with the AFR's? FYI, my original setup on 8psi the AFR's were around 10:1 under full load which is way to rich. My car simply wouldnt handle 10psi when I tried that, would just cut the engine at about 4500rpm, wasnt coilpacks or plugs, was just the ECU going into overprotection mode

I tried setting my actuator for my HKS Turbo up by using a regulator, a digital pressure gauge and some air at home. It doesnt really work though. I found the best way to just tighten the actuator about 1 full turn at a time then adjust half turns, I think Stao's actuators are adjustable in the same way anyway. Lengthen the rod = Increase tension/wastegate opening pressure I know a while ago someone on here had trouble cause there actuator wasn't pretensioned tight enough and was extremely lazy and slugish (from memory anyway)

As above. best way to go Also try rolling the car in gear in case the starter has jammed for some reason Do you mean the voltage was 11v when starting or when just sitting there? Cracking voltage tells more of a story

Check for bad earths and loose/dirty plugs. also check your battery terminals are clean and making good contact

It really depends what cells it hits when you get it to hold constant boost and whether he touched some other cells in anticipation of a higher boost being reached I don't know the tuner so can't say for sure. Id take it back just in case it does lean out. shouldn't have to spend to much time on it anyway

Heading out to Moorevale, starting on Night shift, gonna be rough after not working for 6 weeks lol

How long was spent on the tune? It may just need a bit more time spent on it. As for the boost, maybe try putting your EBC Back in to use as it should bring the boost on a touch quicker and if its a good one it should hold boost nicely. The AFR looks O.K, theres one spot where it leans a little bit (looks like when the boost is ramping up) and you can see the power level goes a touch funny here, but its nothing major by the looks of it. I run my AFR's around 12:1 up the top end with no problems, its really car/setup specific though What's your knock like?

Yeah I might end up fixing it. Its just the fact that it will have to be off the road for a few days and I'm running around doing inductions and shit at the moment so cant really do it at the moment lol. Maybe when I get back from my shift in a bit over a week

Yeah its 10000000 times easier to just go and get a ryco z145a. Nothing at all wrong with them, dont cost much and redily available.

Get a hicas boss kit. mine is a works bell one from just Jap and works fine (you need to be very specific as to what you have eg: hicas, air bag etc) I've since deleted my hicas but as long as the boss kit goes on correctly it should work fine

Shouldn't need to go that low. i run .8 gap with 18-19psi Unless your coils are stuffed but then your just band-aid fixing it

Is that a brand new reo? If so do you mind telling me how much it was?

19's 18's I prefer the 18's for several reasons but 19's are much more "showy"

PM Me and i can tell you how to do it, I wont post it here for obvious reasons

No F-ing way this will be your last car haha I'm looking at something a bit more practical for my next car, Audi A4 1.8L lol The skyline will spend more time locked away then Sunroof hasnt gone well so far, I emailed 3 import wreckers down south and import monster last night just seeing whos got the best price. No replies yet but I'll leave it for a few days. Probably end up putting whatever one i get in the car and (Depending how good it is) I'll get mine pulled apart, remove the rust and paint etc then get it re-sealed. Not to worried at the moment so see how i go

I'll have a dig around. Oh well you have fun in Townsville while im working lol

I have stock suspension still laying around I think Phil if you want me to send the guys up with that?