89CAL

lol yeah bit of a pain, Im hopefully heading up there soon to get that engine off Rob, I'll see if I can organise a trip down there to pick up some stuff. But sure I'll buy it off you, looks alot easier then fabbing the brackets etc myself lol. Does it scrape much on the road?

I wanted that diffuser Did you have the wind deflectors fitted? Im sick of getting water in my car when I turn my window washers on lol

But if it goes wrong and you drill to far through, not dead centre, or snap the easy-out in the hole then your pretty much stuffed. Id take it to a professional if you've never done it before, purely because if you stuff it up, you might have to pull the head off. If it was something less important I'd say sure go for it, but yeah. The cost of getting the tooling and the chances that it can then go wrong, your much better off just paying someone to do it

the top of the boot isnt holding onto the shifter, so there is an air gap letting hot air up through there. I made my own short shifter and just pulled the boot down a bit and cable tied the boot tight against the shifter (used 2 cable ties actually) I had a second boot underneath the one you can see in that picture but it was pulling my shifter out of first (not sure why...) so I just got rid of it. I have no heat issues at all from that area of the car. Bit noisey, but then again I do have polyurethene bushes on the gearbox and diff now

Pretty sure its mmhg cause its Japanese - metric

Stock throttle body will be fine. Saw in an imports magazine the other day a silvia with an RB25 and 500+ hp with a GReddy plenum and the adapter to fit the stock throttle body. No problems with stock throttle body unless your building a show car or making rediculous power

Most newer diesels are Common Rail which require a pressure sensor on the rail. The machinery I work on will sometimes recieve a Low rail pressure warning if the pressure goes to low, and this can make the engine bog down. Common rail pressure can get up near 40,000psi (I've worked on machinery where the pressure limiter (relief valve basically) is set to 38,000psi) So you dont want high pressure in here either. The pressure limiter can control this to a degree, its mainly there as a safety for spikes etc. I assume most light vehicles run under similar principles just not as high pressures from memory. Fuel pressure sensors arent needed in Skylines as the pressure regulator controls the pressure using the Vac/Boost feed. Its not a fool proof system, but 99% of the time its fine. Its only when something goes wrong that having a sensor would probably be benneficial

ummm was about July 2010 so about a year and a half ago.

You mean when the car is running the fuel pump is constantly going? Thats not a real big deal, Remember the injectors control fuel into the engine. My fuel pump runs constantly Regulator controls pressure in the rail, injectors control fuel into the engine, pump creates the flow

Thats what I have, I still like it after all this time

its a round plug, you squeeze two opposite sides which pushes the adjacent two sides up so that you can slide them off the clip. I'm not sure if that makes sense, but you should be able to feel its oval shape

Need some day time shots. guarantee they will look better

Bit to dark for most of the photos to turn out any good last night (without a tripod anyway), Quick edit of this one came up alright but:

Yep, AEM's never require free to air calibration. Have a resistor circuit built into the sensor harness (or something like that anyway)

spend $100 at a tuning shop putting it on a dyno? Can you still use a consult to check the sensors? I think you can with the nistunes but not sure If so take it to a workshop with one of them and a dyno and see what voltages the 02 sensor is putting out etc. I have an AEM UEGO but I'm a fair way away from you

Oh is the VE Table tied in with 02 feedback? I dont know alot about the Nistunes. I thought when you said no 02 feedback it was a bit like mine which is running solely off the injection map with no correction from the 02 sensor not the case? Well could very well be your 02 sensor borrow someone elses and see if it fixes the problem?

Id get EFI line. Peace of mind is better then saving a few dollars

Haha whoops O.K so all the cruise AFR's were tuned manually? Sounds like something on the pressure side is getting hot and letting some of the air out possibly? but I guess you'd hear that on boost if it had an air leak....... Short of saying try another AFM or CAS I dont know what else to suggest lol

Oh I meant between the clutches themselves lol. The reason I went NPC was because 2 of my friends had them in there skylines, One broke the gearbox before the clutch let go (was an RB20 but ) and the other had a welded diff and used to thrash the hell out of his and had no clutch problems at all I just like mine for the power level I'm running. If i was gonna go chasing 400rwkw or so I'd be getting a twin plate. But I cant say a bad thing about my clutch or the service. When I rang up about it, the guy I was talking to spent about 15 mins going through my options and giving me his recomendations. Clutch was express posted and got to me the next day. When I got my flywheel from them I had to send 2 emails and the flywheel turned up the same week. Personal experience is a big +1 from me for NPC

If the AFR's sat at 15.5:1 at cruise, then assuming you have a power FC, it wont be a failed O2 sensor. Mine wouldnt sit on 15.5 with O2 feedback on as its not in the range for the standard O2 sensor so the AFR's fluctuate between your desired AFR and say 14.3:1 (or at least mine did) This is under the assumption that you have a Power FC and are using the standard O2 sensor with O2 feedback on. Does it feel any different to drive at all? If not is it possible the wideband is on the way out? double check all your hoses. I had my AFR's change randomly (one day they were fine then a week later they were to lean, then tune to suit, then they go rich all of a sudden) and I'm pretty sure it was due to one of my breather hoses having a big split in it and sucking in extra air the AFM wasnt seeing This is on the suction side so made it lean, if you were to lose air on the other side it would make it a bit rich

Drinking or Driving meet up? lol

You still need skill to get the most out of it (well I dont drive a Formula 1 car but these are my assumptions) Put it on to early and lose the tail. Put it on to late and you dont get the full benefit Everyone has it, its no different to any other aspect of an F1. The team that has a better designed DRS system, will get more benefit. I think its a step in the right direction. At least they are trying new things I guess. Better then the movable front wings they had last year, barely even noticed it was there.

Ah fair enough Not sure if theres any difference between the GTR and GTST clutches, but mine has a lighter pedal feel than my old exedy cushion button, isnt to much worse to live with every day (takes a little while to get used to but not so bad) Bites damn hard, and has never slipped for me once. Going strong for over a year now. I dunno what else to say about it lol

Hmmm should pulse the injectors when turning it by hand, I've never done it but as far as I know it should just be key on, turn CAS, listen for injectors/spark Dont suppose you could try yet another CAS? I'm not sure if putting voltage through the CAS will be bad for it, I'm not sure which pins are which and what power it should run at

I have that clutch, no problems at all Not as much power as you but Can I ask why you didnt go for a twin plate NPC?