Id say there's far to many people who have taken a week off work/school to play all day and night lol. blops was the same when it first came out, got dropped out of more games then managed to stay in but it got alot better
Im not saying i think mw3 is flawless by any means but im enjoying it more the black ops so far
I went back to playing MW2 after playing Black Ops for a while, Felt like a hell of improvement going backwards a game
I'm liking MW3, will be better when i learn the maps, startting to get the hang of some already
My AEM is fitted in the dump pipe back near the gearbox mount. Bought the wiring up through the gear stick boot/hole and up to the a-pillar where the gauge is. then have the analog out from the gauge wired to my FC-Hako box. pretty good setup, works well
Think he's talking about ones that leak on idle. this is what most do and if its not plumbed back can cause alot of the issues people have with atmospheric bov's
As far as i know all bov's use a vac line to the top to hold them closed under boost and then aids the spring when off throttle to open the valve and release the pressure.
As long as the bov will handle the pressure, any bov should do the job but why not just plumb it back and save yourself some trouble?
I didn't like Castrol edge in my car. think i was running 10w40 and the oil pressure was to high for my liking on a cold day. switched back to motul 8100 x-cess at next service
He might have meant EBC (electronic boost controller)
Get rid of that awful mushroom pod. they are not a good filter. find out who you want to tune it and ask what ECU they would rather tune
My CAS had a dry(ish) bearing that was quite loud. Didnt realise thats what the noise was till I pulled the CAS off when checking everything over. It wasnt spinning smooth at all. Put a new CAS on and all good. Not sure if that will be your problem but not hard to check. Just mark where it was sitting before you take it off or re-check your timing when you put it back on
As long as its around 14V its fine. Mine charges at 14.0V sometimes and 14.5V at other times (Have the voltage displayed on my turbo timer)
Should be all good, glad to see you solved it. Thought it might be something simple like that after you said it worked fine when powered from the front. Amazing how something so small can have such a large effect
Yeah i was leaning towards that. Best bet is to follow the cables (not sure if they run underneath the car or in the car) and check for shorts or breaks
Not real helpful but seems like your on the right track