89CAL

Mods on the car? Atmo BOV? Etc Replace O2 sensor, check timing, reset ecu, put it on a dyno to check AFR's

Dont know for sure, I knew a guy with a 2860rs on his rb20det and it made 240rwkw, think it was a .64 I dont think youd make much more then that but

step up from a disco potato 240-250rwkw?

Yeah I had adjusted them on there to 850 and didnt seem to help, cleaned the AAC and couldnt get idle to change by adjusting it (with TPS unplugged) Went into FC-Edit and thought I'd just try and stab in a random number and tried 1000 and it accepted it so i just went down from there My AFR's at idle are pretty lean, in the 16's but they've always been around there from what I can remember. It's O.K now, still isn't 100% but is alot better then what it was. Might try running it richer and see what that does.

yeah it seems to hit 20 when it goes below 800rpm, but my boost gauge is showing im only gettting -10 vac instead of -15 that i used to get. I played with the tune a bit and got it to idle nicer now (the fuel cells it was cycling between were a fair bit apart) also upped the idle values to 900ish rpm (which you cant do on the HC but apparently can with FC-Edit) so it'll do for now (now idles around 850rpm). But I think I have a vac leak somewhere. Just cant seem to see where at the moment. will have to buy some spray to find it. Thanks for that anyway, useful to know

Having a bit of an idle issue at the moment. I know what its doing I just cant work out why.... Ok, so engine is warm etc so it should be in normal idle mode, its hunting quite a bit. The cells its hitting on the map are all at 15degrees, but the hand controller is showing me that its jumping between 20 degrees and 15 degrees (may hit 19 or 18, but around 20 anyway) So all the cells are saying 15 degrees, so is there something going on where the car is switching back and forth between normal and cold start operation? Not sure why else it would be jumping up and down. Appears worse when the A/C is on Idle is about 800rpm, was around 750rpm last week and I upped the idle figures to get it to the 800rpm. It was previously 850ish rpm so not sure why its dropped (about a month or so ago) So is it possible that I have something wrong with the cold start valve/temp sensor that is playing with the timing?

I have a 16gig card, And I just shoot dual JPEG + RAW, basically because I'm lazy If I have a photo I want to keep that looks good enough without touching, I just grab the JPEG, but then I always have the option of playing around with it in RAW. Perks of having a 16gig card, not really necessary but I find it handy

I pulled the dump off about 4 months ago to weld the wideband in and its pretty good, only mild surface rust. ended up painting it anyway after I welded the bung in.

Yeah a Varex should be fine at cruise/low loads, but I know they do restrict a bit up top end.

Also remember that while there is even pressure on both sides while the system is under boost. When you throttle off and the throttle body closes, one side has (in this example) 30psi and the other side has vacuum. This is where the BOV's function comes into it, but having a larger pressure differential along with age/condition (As above) is going to strain the diaphram more. I know they will handle 20psi all day every day no problems (if there in alright condition) but if you Jam 50psi through your system it means that there is about a 50psi (minus spring tension) pressure differential at some stage which means there is a little less then 50psi jamming the diaphram into the body, or whatever is holding it in position I'm not saying it WILL fail, I'm just saying the more boost you run through it the more your playing with fire.

Read the tutorial on here for it. If you cut the wrong wire you'll have 5psi all the time instead

X = Accelerator? Then yes I get no fuel at all on normal decel, but if I hold my foot lightly on the accelerator it will see AFR's around 13:1 from memory Just the way it is. Best to leave your foot off the accelerator when slowing down

Having an aftermarket plenum, bigger turbo and no bov? These things could be an issue on the stock ecu

So first start at say 17 degrees C it wont start, then immediately after it starts? Or when you say second start do you mean after its been started and running before. If so what temp is it at then? I wouldnt assume it would be something in the tune, I've never touched all the water temp correction etc stuff on mine, and as far as I know these dont need to be altered from the base tune that often. Cold start valve.... I've never really had much experience with it, but perhaps it is the problem. I'm pretty sure that the cold start valve has coolant running through it and then has an electrical plug out of it, but I'm not sure if this goes back to the ECU or just to the AAC valve. The water temp sensor near the thermostat is the one your Power FC HC is seeing, and pretty sure this is where it gets alot of the timing and fuel mixtures from for the cold start. Im just wondering if maybe the Cold start valve is controlling the AAC valve and its not working and your getting not enough air for the extra fuel the ECU is injecting. this is all just guess work on the Cold Start Valve but.

Here

Personally, because I've been there, I would run 8psi through it while you still have a stock ECU. Mine would not run properly at all on 10psi. Easiest thing to do would be the high boost mid with the stock solenoid. Just have to cut and earth one wire and you get 7psi all the time. When you get an aftermarket ECU then go for 10-12psi

Have you got a power FC + hand controller? I don't quite remember. If so what does the water temp read like from start till when it's warm?

not sure if it helps but X-Force are now a trader here on SAU, scroll down in the for sale section

I thought one of the gears or maybe shafts was an updated (better) version. Thought I remembered seeing something about this, but Im no expert on GTR boxes, so this could be 100% wrong lol but R33 S1 and S2 boxes are identical, R34 boxes..... Not so sure, but think there the same also (early versions at least)

Just do it If I'd got tax money I'd have one in my car right now. Just email nengun about it if you have any questions, they were pretty helpful when I asked about it BTW Paul: I did hear back from them and they said that it was a remap by a tuner (from memory) in Japan that works closely with Nengun, but if "Data Init" is performed on the unit, then it needs to be sent back to Nengun to have the tune flashed back onto it. Bit of a shame but I can see exactally why they would do this. Its not much info but might be helpful at some point when you have enough info to put in the FAQ

Found one. Thanks to those who offered help

You have PM

Yeah this is where my confusion lies. As far as I know all R33 Gts-t manual boxes are the same. So there was no real series 1 or 2 box let alone series 3 Unless your talking GTR boxes as questioned above

Depends if you have a car with a separate ignitor and get coilpacks with an inbuilt ignitor (e.g r33 s2 coil packs) This would make things a bit harder. Its much easier to work out what you need then buy coilpacks to suit your application

Series 3 box?