89CAL

New ignitor and coil cover bolts

R33 thermostats are 76°

I wouldn't touch your injector settings till you have a wideband installed

I've seen mercury and water used, there is a reason i just dontt remember A negative psi value does really exist. you can't have below 0psi in a vessel. 0 pounds/square inch Remembering that 0psi on your boost gauge is still 1atmosphere

Yep Psi is a measure of positive pressure Also I've found playing with the tune at the idle points i can get my values to change alot so i wouldn't worry to much about it

Come run our autobarn, its shit and i want to switch to redline lol We should really get our asses into gear and organise a townsville trip.

Super pro do the d-bushes just need to know the size

Im not worried lol Just the red fuel hose has got to go

Ive picked my colour Evoke Metallic (holden colour) with a clear coat for extra shine, should look alright

What's your AFR around the idle points?

I dunno where I was reading about whatever it was hey, i thought it was why the rally cars sounded so rough when they anti lag on the start lol No idea what I was actually reading then

This is why I ask is it actually the engine missing or the transmission slipping/dropping out Do the revs drop when this happens or do they stay the same/rise?

Yeah Phil, you'll work it out after you sell me your diffuser

Soldered a resistor inline with the wire. basically just cut it put the resistor between the cut wire. not to big a deal. 620ohm resistor from memory

and hes just made another one in forced induction :S Whats the point, I just told you the turbo you want, search the dyno thread/in general to find out the version of the GT3076 that best suits your need

Yeah I wish they had an option to accept all your car deliveries, so annoying having to go through them one by one

Wrong section for a start Forced Induction ----> RB25 Dyno Results are where you will find your answers But sounds like you're after a GT3076 if you insist on going garret

Is the engine missing or is it the gearbox making it feel like the engine is missing? Need to know if its a gearbox or engine problem

Set rev limiter just above peak power/torque. with stock engine + turbo + power FC this was below 7000rpm for me. no point reving the engine to 9000rpm if it stops making power at 6000rpm

Congrats on the result. Bet your glad you got the Pro S instead of the KAI like I did lol The Pro S gives results everytime it goes on a 25 it seems, great turbo Hope you enjoy it

How are you going to get the gauge to read the AFR's then? AEM recommend the sensor be put about a metre (from memory) away from the turbine outlet, that's why I put mine where I did. Having said that, I've used an innovate in the stock location and it was fine If you have a power fc then you can get them to turn o2 feedback off and get your tuner to tune the lean cruise values in. This is how I have mine although I've retained the stock sensor. It would mean that you could put the AEM sensor in the stock o2 sensor position But this is if you don't think you need o2 feedback for your lean cruise

You can drill stainless just have to go on and off with your pressure as it gets stronger as it heats up. I drilled and welded my AEM sensor in just in front of the gearbox. It's not a big job to pull the dump off and get the bung welded in. Put anti sieze on the dump bolts when you put it back together. Will help a ton if you ever have to pull it off again

I got a blue LED for my demister + hazard light switches so they lit up blue I'm not sure if there the same size, but I got mine from Dick Smith, Think they do white ones

I ran 12psi on stock turbo for over a year without any issues, but I know others that havent been so lucky, I'd stick to 11psi. Its not un-safe to be running 10.5:1 AFR's, quite the opposite really (unless hes checked a bunch of timing at it) See where your power starts to drop and notice that its also where your AFR jumps to 10.5:1 This is where you will be losing your peak power unless you have exhaust/intake restrictions or some other kind of issue. How does the plot for your boost look? (If they gave you a power vs boost graph) If not and you want to know, the dyno run should be stored in there dynos computer and you will be able to go back and get them to print one out (assuming the plotted the boost, which they should have)

is that on stock ECU? 10.5:1 is pretty rich, mine ran about 10:1 on stock ECU back in the day around 12:1 is what you want (in short, its not as simple as 12:1 everywhere, but roughly that) Its a good result if your running stock ECU, I made 141rwkw on 8psi with the stock ECU, hit R&R real bad on anything above that