89CAL

as in this one coming or the one after? lol Organise a day amongst yourselves and just let me know

Ok, so I fried my alarm in my car on the weekend, got a new one and its all working again. But just thought I'd post up here in the off chance that anyone wants some of the leftover stuff. All stuff is from a Mongoose M60. I have my 2xOld remotes for it, a brand new wiring harness for it and the LED indicating light Pretty random but I thought someone might be interested in some spares/replacement parts

I'm very happy with my AEM UEGO unit. Never having to calibrate it is great Have mine outputting AFR's to my laptop so I can log them on FC-Edit. Very handy being able to do this. As for the simulated narrowband output to your power FC for cruise AFR's. How is this done? Just use the signal line from the wideband and join it to the narrowband signal wire?

If you only want 300rwkw, then there's no question, go for the 3076. Or the 3582 if you like lag or want to push more power later on. Id suggest reading the dyno thread for some ideas 3582 is usually used for a higher power goal then 300rwkw, and most of the time (as far as I know) on an engine with at least a little bit of strengthening mods done EDIT: haven't looked at the links, but as above post, be careful of eBay turbo kits.

This is why they say it's more fuel efficient to pull up to lights while downshifting rather than just putting the car in neutral. Fuel is required to keep the car running at idle. Your drivetrain is doing this under decel so no fuel is needed

Crank doesnt look so bad...... need a new spigot bush. But I'd get a second oppinion on wether you should run it again. So the mounting point that has broken off is on the flywheel yes? New flywheel shouldnt be to hard to find?

Ask yourself this....... If 8 wasnt enough to hold it in the first place, do you really trust 7? And if there is damaged to the crank I would suggest replacing the crank. Are you talking about the bolts that bolt the flywheel to the crank or the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel btw? I dont remember how many there are for each.... Have any photos?

Cant say 100% but I would bet money theres only an O-Ring at the back of that 'nut' If so should be easy to fix

The ones running without BOV's at all were probably tuned similar to what your standard R33 is (I dont know which cars these are so cant say to much) You can get away with NO BOV from what I remember, but its at least alot easier then running an atmo BOV but as Paul said, just a matter of driving around, finding the cells were its pumping fuel in and adjusting to bring it back to a normal AFR.

If you have an O2 sensor (wideband) in when this is happening you can see what the engine does. Desired AFR > Close throttle body> momentarily rich then full lean (deceleration, no problem). So as GTSBoy said, no part is played by your AAC valve. The engine doesnt need power during deceleration so it doesnt inject any fuel at all and doesnt really need any air. When the car returns to an idle state it will open the AAC valve and use the air feed from there. As for Rolls question about "how did nissan tune out the stalling issue". Remember that the cars were designed like that (the ones without bov's) so it wasnt so much "tuning it out" as much as tuning the car to suit. As far as I know the introduction of BOV's was an emission thing as well as helping with spool times between gear changes, was supposed to be an improvement and hence the ECU was tuned to suit. running no BOV confuses the AFM from what I know, as it see's air flowing in the wrong direction. I run an aftermarket BOV plumback, purely because I hate the sound of the standard BOV's, annoyed the hell out of me. So I will never argue that they dont work etc, but I dont see myself ever running one again

What little black box?....... Are you talking about a box where the stock clutch line does a loop before heading to the master? Can't remember as I have braided lines but if so it Probably doesn't matter so much, but if you want to bleed from there go master, black block, slave and you should be fine

Pick a date. I'm free every weekend pretty much lol

Nipple is on the slave and there is one on the master as well Bleed clutch same as you would your brakes. Top up your reservior with as much fluid as you can, bleed using the nipple on the master first making sure you top up the fluid as you go. Then bleed from the slave again watching you keep enough fluid in the reservior.

Get Kingy involved and I'll try and get a few others keen and work out a day

lol SAU went down anyway, so noone would have been able to reply... some other time when everyones keen

Anyone keen on getting some photos tonight? Thinking about heading out with some camera gear

There will be something there to hold your hub in the toe position it's set at. Not sure what the difference is with a non hicas hub. But I don't think you will be able to just remove it

Rear HICAS ball joint. Can buy them off the just jap site for about the same as from Nissan Does this look like it? (making sure we are Talking about the same thing) http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19362&cat=&page=1

I ordered mine, payed for it, and it was sent within 2 days. Got it within a week. Occasionally I still email them with some info or problems and usually get a reply within 24 hours. Not sure what happened in your case....

From personal experience, the guys who make/sell the FC-Hako are great to deal with. Excellent customer support, had something like 48 emails back and forth trying to work out the problem with getting the FC-Hako to interface with Windows 7 64-bit The product is great as well, firmware is updateable and functions the same as the datalogit. The only thing that you dont get, is the plug to run the hand controller with the box connected to a computer (this isnt recommended anyway) and you only get inputs AN1 - AN4 instead of AN1 - AN8 (From memory) on the datalogit. You dont get software either but sounds like you have FC-Edit already anyway So big +1 from me for FC-Hako FYI: The FC-Hako is about $179, I forget if that includes delivery

you say you havent looked yet....... maybe you should? people will need more info before they can help. Are you talking about the actual button/switch inside the steering wheel which activates the horn?

You gain quite alot of torque using an electric drive motor (depending on the reduction etc) but this is also were your problem lies. The motors are still geared (assuming your still going to use one or more final drives) to achieve speed or torque or a mixture. So you won't be achieving the same as a CVT which is always changing ratios. I can go touch a design that is exactally what you are describing right now (Komatsu 730E dump truck) and i can also tell you it will carry a he'll of a lot of dirt but only do 60km/h If you knew the equipment you need to get it to work pepperly then you'd realize it's not as easy as plugging a motor into a generator and away you go (not that you were thinking that) For example, our trucks use several contactors, IGBT's capacitors etc to make them work. Not to mention all the resistors for retarding (wouldn't be necessary on a car) as well This also generates quite a bit of heat which is another problem with storage of components and cooling Your idea is fair enough, I think Lexus even use a similar system on one of there cars, but I think it's a solution better left for trucks/trains. Some of the parts are expensive when they go wrong and you don't get all the same benefits of a true CVT

Did one of the washers for the CAS fall into the timing covers? Or anything else when you did the CAS? Hard to say without seeing. This is just a guess as it's the last thing you touched before it went wrong

dont even? lol no cheap bonnet strut kit for you if it fails on my car

Can't edit my post for some reason....... so I'll make a new one. went to a mates today who bought a bonnet strut kit for his 180sx, Link: Ebay: 240sx Strut Kit Looks like it'll fit a Skyline pretty easy, I've ordered one so will let you know if it does, if your still interested in bonnet struts