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it was through Nengun. they've been trying to help by talking direct with HKS Japan, but either there not playing the game or theres some miscommunication somewhere between me and HKS. Hard to deal with people when I dont speak there langauge lol

Auto will make it slower. Phils mums might be manual which will make it a bit faster. Just saying Dont the N/A R33's have VCT?

Is there any glasses FOR this yet? Or am I going to have to modify some 3D glasses from the cinema?

Lol BTW. did you forget how to count in your sig?

Seen an RB25 with a T04Z (all be it not as new design as the one you have) and yeah..... No thanks lol The only reason I went HKS was for good mix of power and response, would have been more then happy with the Pro S. I'm sure of that

Have pretty much lost interest in tryin to get help from HKS with my turbo. Don't seem interested at all in what I've been doing to try and fix it. Might have to just start looking for a second hand Pro S

ECU's do not try and slow the revs down as you put it when the key is switched off. They stop fueling and sparking so the engine stops. ECU's primary job is to meet targets so it will want to reach a target RPM but something isn't letting it. I would check the wiring to the turbo timer. As its only doing it with the turbo timer on the fault probably lies there

Makes sense. The injector one was more of a random thought I had ages ago but didn't think it would make a big difference Thanks

What is the description for the fault code?

Just that part there may have been a poor choice of words. I get what your saying But the way you put it just sounds like you mean "Put a Z32 AFM on and you'll get more power" Question but for the more experienced users on here: Say for a 150rwkw Skyline with a Power FC, just as an example - Would having a standard AFM be better then a Z32 as the resoloution isnt spread out so much? Or am I completely misunderstanding the idea behind this The way I see it, if you have a 20x20 map on a stock AFM thats good for 150kw (I'm just using a random figure), then you have a 20x20 map with a Z32 AFM map thats good for 300kw (again hypothetical figure). You've got so many more cells to tune the amount of airflow for 150kw as its using all the cells rather then just half on the Z32. This is just a question, as I've thought about this for a while and this is how I see it, I know that the Power FC intorpolates the 'in between' data, but still would be interesting to know if my assumption is right Also thought the same applied for injectors? Get stupidly large injectors and you'll have plenty of room to breathe, but lose a bit of the fine tuning Or am I completly wrong

lol more clutch slip next time, have to play with the tune some more first. I'm to busy at the moment its no good lol

Isn't this just standard AFM pushed to max then putting a better AFM on with a larger scope and tuning to suit and getting more power I don't think if you had for example 190rwkw you would necessarily gain power just by adding a Z32 AFM

Double post

Haha yeah. I think my driveshaft that snapped was a bit of a random thing. Ask anyone I don't really do hard launches around town, I'm a girl and all that shit yeah yeah But it's always in the back of my mind now, I'm mainly worried about if I ever get semis. But I need to slip the clutch a bit next time I go out for a run. The button clutch won't make it easy but I'll manage

Heater relies on the car being warm so it will only be warm when your temp gauge shows the water temp is getting near half way on the gauge Better to test the A/C on cold settings It could be the bearing in your A/C compressor. Or the Bearing in your idler (at the very bottom, it's where the adjustment is) Remember that the A/C belt spins all the time but it may only make the noise when your A/C compressor clutch kicks in and there is load on everything. It may make the noise all the time however Take the bottom cover off under the engine and get under there and try and listen where the noise is coming from.

Are they for Gts-t cause I only ever find GTR ones which I assume are longer? Debating wether it's better to have the driveshafts as the weakpoint or not cause if I get stronger ones it's only gonna be something more expensive that will break instead......

Its part of the internal air temp sensor. I know with the sensor unplugged, you will get hot air from the A/C on anything but 18 Degrees. This is because it doesnt know the internal temperature and cant adjust to suit. make sure the hose and plug are connected to there counterparts on the dash panel that you have pulled off atm

I have random occurences of this, its not always when its hot or always when its cold, just at random times it seems. Interested to see what people think

If take the cover off and have a look at your belt ( mark CAS position) Check for signs that it's been rubbing, if it has then take it somewhere immediately. Also work out why it started happening all of a sudden if it's ony just started since FMIC install.

+1 Cap creates the pressure in the system. The pump only creates flow. Depending on the size of the leak that may have an affect but it sounds like it's only dribbling out the telltale so shouldn't affect pressure to much. But that said if it's leaking you will have to change it out. May as well do the timing belt etc while your at it unless that has only recently been done As for fuel economy, depends how you drive and what conditions occur when your driving, e.g traffic, highway driving If you boost lots you will chew fuel. You could have a faulty O2 sensor, also try resetting your ECU as it's easy to do (that is if you have a standard ECU) if you have an aftermarket ECU then the tune might be to rich

cant you just work it out from the model plate on the turbo?

From memory it's only about $250 for a rebuild. If so that's a pretty sweet deal although I might go twin plate if I have to replace it again lol

I thought they were all NPC designed and built +1 for the flywheel but. There a good item and have cooling slots to direct some air into the centre of the clutch.

Putting in an RB25 would be much cheaper then stroking the RB20. Not to mention the better flowing heads and VCT

So do you need a P/S pump Rob? lol