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The pump provides flow, the regulator provides pressure/restriction Tomei/nismo/HKS pump is still the way to go. I'm so happy with mine, hasn't missed a beat and is quieter then the common alternatives (walbro, Bosch) Worth spending the extra money

Pretty Sure RB25 ones aren't spring loaded as the throttle body is which makes it not necessary for the TPS to be spring loaded. Imagine 26 items would be the same

Buy the plumb back adapter for it and put it on like mine. Trust me:

6 years have passed. He probably worked it out

Yeah thought that would be the case but just wanted someone to confirm this Thanks

Anyone want a turbosmart Dual Stage boost controller? $50 and its yours Also have a Samsung 32" Full HD (1080p) LCD TV for sale as well. About 2 years old, good little TV. Want about $300

I have a full set of stock suspension, in Mackay. If you drive in here or know anyone that can bring them out I will sell them to you for $100

I have a question that is kinda related to this. If you have a Power FC and the handcontroller is showing 15 degrees at idle, can you then put a timing light on and set the CAS to be triggering at 15 degrees on the balancer mark. Probably not the best explanation but was thinking about this today and thought it should work and would make it easier to set base timing. Thoughts?

ah ok fair enough I thought they you meant they just leak no matter what Seen as you have nothing to do, try filing/sanding back the burr so that its nice and flush and make sure its nice and clean. You want to make sure theres nothing that the female end of the fitting can break off that might go into your oil, if you get what I mean Nothing to lose so worth a shot

Safe lol White R33 GTR. Can be Kingy's Cars little brother haha. Will look good with some carbon fibre goodies on it, lowered, sweet mags Midnight purple and White work well on R33 GTR's, Someone here has already done midnight purple but

Maybe pointing out the obvious. But if you know it's going to leak anyway (you said the JJR kits leak in your first post) then why not just buy a new oil cooler? Oil is the life blood of your engine/turbo, something as simple as this ruining that would make you regret 'bandaid' fixing it now

Lol hinting?

+1 Are the fittings weld in or screw in? If they are screw in it would be worth getting a replacement. Only on iPhone so can't see the photo great, just looked like a screw in one

Sweet as I'd love a 370Z as a daily, but realistically I could only afford a 120Y as a daily lol BTW, your daily cant be faster then my R33, then I think I'll get really sad lol

Yeah clay bar is more for removing impurities from your paint. If its a proper scuff mark its likely that its slightly damaged the paint and may need a slight buff

Well now I'm at a computer and can type, Ill say the one thing I didnt like when I used a Nikon was that they dont show a preview of the image with your settings on the screen (when you turn viewfinder view on) My Canon I can switch to viewfinder mode and adjust my major settings till I'm happy with how the light and depth of the photo are The Nikon I tried to do the same and it just kep the image that it saw, without altering the image in the viewfinder with changes to the settings (If this makes sense) That was an older Nikon, probably 4 or so years old now so they might not do this anymore. Its more personal preference, I know lots of people using Nikon's and they like them and they take good photos. but I like the layout on the Canon's, they way they are set out etc. Only way to find out is to use as many different SLR's you can get your hands on, I went straight for Canon but that doesnt make me right

My timing cover was vibrating a bit when I had the stock one on. Was sometimes really obvious at idle. I just think I eliminated a strange noise that was giving false readings. Given I think my sensors are faulty anyway it might have been causing some fake knock. But I may have bumped it back slightly on base timing and am getting a placebo effect from this lol.

Try them both. Really have to get what suits you.

Just FYI I used to get alot of random knock. Changed to a carbon fibre timing cover not long ago and my knock decreased So think I have faulty sensors. Especially seen as I can get 20ish knock on startup and got 61 knock over a second after I had backed off the throttle another time Modifying a car can throw them out too apparently And can confirm default setting for knock warning is 60. Tuner can change this but

I had 19 x 9.5's on the rear of mine with 265's and no guard work and it didn't scrape. All comes down to offset not just width

High oil pressure from the fuel cap being stuffed? :S Think your running the wrong oil. Try a 10w40. Also is the high pressure on startup? Cold weather makes oil thicker till it warms up

My greddy turbo timer works fine with my mongoose alarm. Is it wired up correctly and have you set the timer? If so does it reset everytime you turn the ignition off then back on (to zero)

Air mixer, mixes hot and cold air to get desired temp. These often fail and click on startup. Might cause these problems to

Tell-tale hole You never specified where it was leaking from, I wasnt sure if you knew it was coming from around the water pump or it was coming from somwerher else. You might be able to see if it is indeed coming out of the pump if you take the timing cover off. Might (not 100% sure) be able to look down through there and see. It will at least let you know if it is def the water pump leaking. but sounds like it probably will be the issue