89CAL

Ebay Gives answers HID D2R 35W Bulbs That is basically all the info you would need to go get the bulbs from a local shop (autobarn might be able to help) Take one in with you if your worried. Most HID bulbs for cars are 35w I think anyway EDIT: These look like the exact ones Phillips globes

Anti-Lag + Big Turbo = Sweet

I hit R&R real bad with stock turbo at 10psi. Some R33 stock ECU's just can't handle it......

Wind the boost back to stock (as this is the cheapest option, just connect the boost feed straight to the wastegate actuator if you dont have an adjustable boost controller) if the car drives like normal then to much boost on stock ECU is your problem Fix = Get an aftermarket tunable ECU and get a tune to run 12psi on the stock turbo, this is the more expensive option or Keep your boost at 8psi or below as most RB25's will handle this easily. Cheaper option If the coilpacks are new and only 3 months old then it shouldnt be anything to do with them unless you got a faulty coilpack

huh? :S Thats how engines work..... 10psi + Stock ECU = Car runs like crap. Wind it back to 7-8psi and it will run better

if both BOV's are plumbed up right and working correctly you shouldnt lose any boost by having 2 on there. Just get a flat plate with two holes to block the stock BOV, make up a gasket as well so it seals. If your cheap, you can use a screw off bottle cap (plastic) from a lemonade bottle with a hose clamp around the rubber hose to block it off. Otherwise you can buy the proper steel plugs and do the same with it (turbosmart sell these I'm pretty sure)

Being LED it wont draw much current so wont be an issue. Either tap into the positive and negative and run to the LED strip, or cut the wires and connect them to your strip if you dont want to utilize the original lighting.

Great day at Palmyra today Stoked with how my car went with the new front cover, and my quick hour touch up of the tune yesturday 13.028@110mph with a 2.06 60ft time Last run: 13.889@110mph with a 1.8 60ft time. Missed a gear on this one, would have been in the 12's

Quick Edit.... Will add some more as I go Ok Un-edited photos:

haha nah I was talking about the CAT bolts...... cause I work for Komatsu and everything.......

pfft CAT haha Loctite Silver grade anti-sieze, $0 per tub for me

easy.... put it in 5th at about 50kmh, put your foot down and you'll soon see if its slipping.

yeah i have CAT high tensile bolts on mine with anti sieze, so easy when i had to pull the dump off the other week to fit my wideband

there not M10, M8 from memory. Make sure you get high tensile or stainless bolts or they will snap easy if you ever have to take them out again

ahhhh so want to get a full undershot of your car while its on the hoist. Have seen this done before and it looks sweet with the right car (and your car has plenty of nice shiny bits underneath ) Let me know if you ever want me to come out and take some snaps of either car. This thing will be great on the track, looks like it will handle amazingly.... And if not you can adjust just about anything to fix that

In the gtst it is cut and shut to the stock harness for the stock boost solenoid. Not sure on a GTR but. It is in Paul's PFC FAQ somewhere

Its weird, I'm worried it would leak because there is no o-ring, gasket etc behind the cover to seal it. But it mustnt be leaking as it feels as good as before but is running AFR's in the 10:1 range under full load. Take a bit of fuel out of it and might be on a winner Not having issues with what sounded like surge at 100kmh-110kmh in 5th gear. Bit odd that the anti surge cover seemed to be causing surge there :S Will keep everyone posted..... Also: Photo DVD's are sitting in my car so if you want one I can meet you somewhere over the weekend or something

your AFM is still 3" so may as well just get a 3" pipe made up (Cheaper at least) I just bought two 90 degree 1" hoses for my BOV return to get it to fit on the HKS Supplied intake pipe, had to cut the BOV return barb on the pipe down a bit but. I have a front facing plenum and my BOV located on the hot side of the intercooler, sorta right in front of and above the turbo. But without seeing your setup not sure if what I've done would work on your car

If you get it. Replace it with a hose clamp facing in a handy direction so it's easier if you ever have to do it again

Whichever way will spring the cylinder so that the drive gear is disengaged. Solenoid will compress the spring when energized and overcome it to push the gear into drive with the ring gear

So got my new front cover for my turbo made up...... The thing sounds even louder then before! I thought without the anti surge slots would make it alot quieter. Anyway the thing is so rich now I'm lighting up the night with backfires so will need to play with the tune on the weekend (10:1 AFR's atm) Wheelspin in second easily now but, if it wheelspins in 3rd after tuning then I may have solved the problem with the HKS GT2835 KAI and its disapointing results in comparison with the Pro S

I found it easiest to remove the Rubber heater hoses that run behind the block. Otherwise it was near impossible. I have a greddy copy plenum, not sure if that makes it harder or not. Is a banjo bolt at the turbo and a barbed fitting with a clamp on at the plenum

Hahaha

So having your thermostat closed means no air will be trapped in the system? You need to run the engine while topping up coolant Crack bleed screwFill radiator till you can't anymore, start engine and run, top up as needed, you will know when the thermostat is open as you will be able to see water flowing across the top of the radiator by looking in the fill point. It will be still water when the thermostat is closed and you'll see it moving when it's open. After this just keep topping up till there is steady water coming out of the bleed point (no bubbles)

considered the just jap one? no holes required and can get a stealth (black one) supposed to be pretty good