89CAL

Yeah I have to get my FC Hako working again. The latest firmware seems to have screwed something out and it's dropping out. Was gonna have a look at everything at the drags but it kept dropping out early in the run

Sweet as. Started editing some RAW photos yet? Can make them look really good with just the initial processing in photoshop. Post some up if you edit some Like I said to you, I really wish we got more photos but that's just the way it went lol.

Ummmmmm Why go to all the effort of boring it out etc. If its wrong go to an import wreckers and pull one off of a turbo skyline. Will cost you $50 and take about 20 mins rather then sending it somewhere, waiting for them to bore it or whatever then getting it back and re-installing it. Seems like a waste of money to me Can you confirm which cylinder you are talking about also, and maybe provide photos of both so people can confirm if its a non turbo item. It seems weird that it would be smaller as I dont hear of them stuffing up to much. It sounds like your a bit confused between the master and slave and there sizes

I could never get the diag to work in mine, but the HICAS worked all the time except when I first put my boss kit on for my steering wheel. I got the Works Bell one from Just Jap, and they have a couple of slots in them. Basically you have one slot for the plug to go through, and the other plug for the prong that turns the steering sensor. I had mine on the wrong way in some slots that looked like they were right. I turned the hub 90 degrees I think towards another set of slots that I thought was to tight the first time but turned out to be right. So if you look at the back of your boss kit and it looks like it could go on a couple of different ways then try putting it on so that it goes over the prong nice and tight. Mine only had about 5 degrees of play at the most before it was engaging the prong but apparently that was enough. So its very sensitive

Hmmmmm Best idea would be to borrow a friend to sit in the car and turn it so it makes the noise. While you look around the front and underneath etc trying to pin-point the noise. Will make it alot easier to diagnose if you can see where its coming from. My GTSt made a clunking type noise that turned out to be sway bar bushes but I dont think it would be that.

Do you know how to use a 2nd spanner on the first to get more leverage? I've had to do it this way to get my drive shafts out before. Need 2 x Ring/Open end spanners. Put the ring end on the bolt then put the ring end of the other spanner over the open end of the first spanner so that you can use it to turn the first spanner. If this makes sense Will help alot if the bolt is tight and you only have spanners to get it off

I have never cut one open. But they will be insulated internally. The bracket on the outside will be part of the insulation and therefore not pass a current from the coil to the bracket. Simple fact is, as said, a thin layer of paint would not stop 10,000+V from jumping from the coil pack to the bracket in the first place, and I dont think they would have designed it like this There is an earth cable that bolts to one of the rear bolts that holds the bracket down, this may be there to drain any voltage that does manage to escape to the bracket.

Hi-Lo beam Mod

Hi After the front housing off a HKS GT2835 Pro S to trial with the KAI turbo. After talks with Hypergear, Stao has told me that the front with the anti surge slots might be the cause of the lower then expected power output. He can make me a housing but means I have to be without the turbo for a while so thought I would try and get a hold of a Pro S housing if anyone has a wrecked Pro S with good condition housing. Long shot but thought I'd give it a shot Thanks Callan

Pretty sure the mounting bracket is insulated from the coil itself so there is no issue with that.

Series 1's dont have airbags

Four bolts at the end of the input shaft? Input shaft goes into your clutch and spigot bush......

Worn CV Joint would be my guess if its clicking and coming from the front somewhere.

Ive seen a graph with times it takes the turbo to cool after boosting and for a ball bearing it's not much at all. 10 seconds is more then enough really. Bush bearing turbos are where you need to give a cool down period. I have mine set on 20 seconds. But manually shut it off when I turn off the car anyway. Leave it going for a bit longer after a highway drive but that's just for peace of mind that the whole engine has circulated some fluids and everything is normal when shutting down. This probably isn't really necessary but as I said it's just a peace of mind thing Depending on how your turbo timer is wired in that could be the problem, If your seeing the power to the unit flicker or switch off then back on id check it out Otherwise as people have said, try and borrow a known working CAS and give that a shot

Other cause is crankcase pressure. I hope for your sake it's just the seal

That sounds far to dangerous to waste money on fixing Just get a HICAS lock bar. I spent forever trying to avoid doing this cause I had perfectly working HICAS, but it started making the car feel a bit unsteady in the wet so I got rid of it. HICAS Lock Bar, Wheel Alignment and should be sweet

I mainly just want little bits and pieces. The front reo bar if its still pretty straight (the one I have now is off a car thats been crashed a few times so is not in the best shape and not exactally straight which is why the front of my car doesnt line up 100% hah) and maybe a few iinterior trims. Thats about all I'm really after that I can think of. But All good, Get well in the mean time and let me know when your ready to start getting rid of stuff. I dont need anything urgently So not gonna re-use the engine in the next car? I suppose if you get a GTR and do a 26/30 you already have the more expensive half of the engine with the car.

Probably not something you want to hear now, but if/when your ready to part out some stuff let me know. Got a few things I need that can start funding the next project It's a shame to see that car like that but, so I don't blame you if you don't want to think about that straight away

I've made a few so I'll just send you two copies. PM Me where you want me to send it?

Is it like the PSI Parts one that covers the whole front section (cause I've seen ones that stop about where the lights start) If so, very interested in that. Let me know Also have the Easter cruise DVD's ready to go. I'll PM you about that later Phil but PM me first if you want so I don't forget. Anyone else who wants one let me know and we can have a meet up or something

Perfect Dark, Zelda and Mario 64 You can buy the last 2 from the Wii store and use the classic controller to play them. Been tempted for so long to do so but never get around to doing it.....

Yeah I'd use a buff gun with an aluminium pad or probably could just get away with a normal buff pad. I used an oil stone on mine after I'd cleaned up the ports to make sure the surface was flat. Do not use anything to harsh and do not just leave it. FYI, my buff gun was $130 from snap on (its a blue point one) and if your doing alot of surface prep they are a great little tool. I get pads and sanding discs for free from work but I dont think there that expensive anyway. Otherwise buy a paint scraper and try and scrape it off as best you can then get some sandpaper and rub it down till its nice and smooth. The worst thing you can do is have it uneven or poorly prepped. The hour that being lazy with it will save now will seem like nothing if something happens and you have to replace stuff

Are you sure? I thought they were the same Or is that stageas?

Apprentices can't afford proper tools lol..............

Yeah dads done lots of manuals before, I only have to deal with autos really for work so he did most of the truly stuff. Replaced all the bearings, needle rollers and the two thrust washers and new 2nd+4th synchros. $660 I think all those parts cost to my door and I just had to get a few other parts from Nissan. But if you don't have an oxy, a press, pulling tools and some lever bars/large flat screwdrivers I wouldn't even think about it. No wonder there a tough box, so many things are press fit and there's barely any room to pull them off. That's why we had to use the oxy to heat alot of it up The NPC lightweight billet flywheel is a great item but. Doesn't feel to different but I've noticed it doesn't lunge if you take your foot off the gas in say second gear nearly as much as before Also put some lube on the pivot ball. No more squeaky clutch for me