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Yeah just from autobarn but there $60 a roll from there and you only get 3m Try http://www.tweakit.net/shop/index.php?cPath=57_452_464&osCsid=68u503ejfk37sfmm2m276p9qd2 I'm pretty sure it was 4mm, 5mm and 6mm but it may have been 3mm instead of 4mm

CAS isnt to hard to get back to where it was. Just mark it really well before you take the timing cover off. Double check if your worried after thats done with timing light I have a funny feeling that there is a dowel on the water pump so it may not just slide out I'd replace the timing belt while its off. It just means you dont have to worry about it again for another 100,000km

If it was jammed between the pressure plate and the clutch disc you would know about it. Im pretty sure you would be able to hear it You say you've been researching but have you searched on here? A common problem with r33's is that the cluth pivot can break (or something like this, I'm about to finish night shift so my brains a bit fuzzy) which causes the clutch to not disengage the drive. There are othe things it could be but I don't think it's a pressure plate failure

The stock gauge isn't really a precision gauge, just to show that your car is about where it should be and warn if it's to hot. I'm surprised you get such low highway temps. I think I get low 80's on the highway

AFR = Air/Fuel Ratio Expressed as a ratio, clearly lol. I got near 10:1 AFR's with stock ECU. 140rwkw is all I think I managed with this

Put it back to stock boost and see if it's any better. As for the noise, not sure what you mean......

When I did my greddy copy plenum I replaced all my vacuum lines with blue turbosmart ones. Got a pack of 4mm, 5mm and 6mm which was good to replace all the vac lines. They come in black if you want to keep it looking stock

dont think its possible, why not do the timing belt while your at it anyway?

Ask a stupid question, Get a stupid answer lol simple as that I dont do static burnouts, I snapped a halfshaft last time I did one (which was the first one I'd done in ages anyway) so no I rarely do them I find it more enjoyable when the car grips and takes off quick and drives nicely rather then sitting with my bogan friends comparing black marks.....

Tried to download FAST 2010 from your site the other day but it only downloaded about 300mb or so of it. So I burnt it to a DVD anyway and kept getting "not a valid win32 program" or something when I tried to run install Think it was just cause it only partially downloaded?

An online version? Would be great I heard the 2010 version of FAST works with windows 7 64-bit. I used to have FAST on vista but can't get it to work on win 7 now. FAST 2010 is hosted on GTROC or somewhere like that but you need to be a member and have 300 posts or so to download it Only place I've found it so far......

Did you leave a hose disconnected? (vac line) Also run 12psi not 14 or you could blow the turbo up

That sensor looks like it is in a bastard of a spot! Be very careful with the bolts in the back of the turbo, you don't want to snap them. As said spray them with bolt off or wd40 etc and leave that sit for a while. If the bolt feels like it's getting tight as your undoing it, it might pay to do it back up a few turns then start undoing it again so you don't snap it.

That sucks mate. People in this town are useless Engine transplant? or are you over it all atm?

Not boost cut....... The ECU does NOT see boost in an R33 GTS-t. The ECU see's air flow, Injector duty etc etc. See's variables out of its programmed range and throws fuel at it and takes timing out You can not call this boost cut

Yeah I have genuine Nissan 2nd and 4th gear synchros from ATC, pretty happy cause Nissan here wanted $280 for them They look like they might all be NSK bearings. All have Japan on them anyway, only pulled two out to check Seals have TTN or something on them, but look pretty good Pretty happy it has all the bearings and needle rollers in it.

I spent money

It looks as though everything on that breakdown is supplied. Photo:

Did you bleed both the master and the slave?

You'd be hard pressed to find a new one from anyone else. Guessing its a genuine Nissan Item that is sourced from Nissan Japan. So therefore expensive lol I recieved the parts from ATC This morning having ordered it yesturday afternoon at about 3:30pm, so great service. The synchros I ordered are genuine Nissan items to, so very happy Will post up a photo of the kit before it goes in if I remember (not sure when the gearbox is getting pulled apart yet)

As above to suggestions The. When you get it started check the voltage at the battery. Should be around 14.5 volts when running. Leave t run then turn the car off and check voltage while cranking. Should be about 12v with everything off and never dip below 8v I think it is while cranking. Do this and we can tell you if it's the battery

Yeah pretty sure dot 4 brake fluid is in mine. No problems

Ok so just rang ATC in Brisbane The following prices do NOT include GST Overhaul Kit: $422.30 2nd Gear Synchro: $95 4th Gear Synchro: $62.80 Apparently 2nd Gear synchro is a 3 piece part, thats why it costs a bit more. He said 2nd and 3rd gear have the same 3 piece setup. So I'm guessing all the synchros would be $62.80 + gst except for 2nd and 3rd which im guessing are both $95 Thats a guess. But anyway, the guy I spoke to was great to deal with so give them a call and talk about what you need. There branch in wagga had all the parts (Brisbane had everything but 4th gear synchro) So for about $660 I'm getting everything that was gonna cost me nearly $1000 to source locally. Very happy

This is true lol

I have a good enough clutch 10" sprung button NPC. Good for 400kw. Plenty lol Buying the flywheel from them. Very happy with the clutch and customer service And the flywheels look good Back on topic but lol. I'll just burn 3 DVDs and you can give one to ben and Andrew if he wants one. Yeah just let me know when you'll be in town