89CAL

I'm gonna bring the FC Hako and maybe (MAYBE) adjust my tune to shoot flames for a brief period to get a photo of it But I'll see how I feel, I dont think its very safe so might decide not to do it lol

So after 2 years you finally started it? haha Yeah if you want.... But I guess it will have to wait a week or two unless you want to do it thursday afternoon I cant believe how much toe in I have a the rear of my car now lol. Hopefully the wheel alignment goes good, they said they could adjust camber bushes so they better not turn around and say "oh we've never done them before" or I will get super angry lol

it shouldnt really matter if you tee into your map sensor line. Its not Venting the pressure, it will have a sealed unit with some sort of spring arangement or something more technical. So more boost will push the spring further and create less resistance something like that anyway any boost/vacuum line that comes off the plenum is fine, as long as your happy to use it. I have the MAP Sensor for my PFC boost control kit and boost gauge MAP sensor tee'd from the one line

Ive seen them in the snap on truck that comes to my work, last time I saw one was about 3 months or so ago? As far as I know they still sell them

Lol yeah. Was a pain but there in now. Just would take so much less time to pull one arm out each side and replace it. But oh well

What boost controller is that? The only thing I can think of is that with the boost controller still plugged in but set to zero is providing a slight restriction between actuator and boost source. Have you tried bypassing the boost solenoid altogether and taken it for a drive?

Just some advice...... If you want to change your rear camber to help with tyre wear etc....... FOR THE LOVE OF GOD GET ADJUSTABLE CAMBER ARMS Camber bushes suck ass haha

As above. Easy and best way to do it

it was pretty minor... lol

I thought for sure that was gonna be a random earthquake post lol

I have a 10" clutch on my R33. As long as its push type it should be right

Leads in a coil over spark system? Check your plugs, probably wouldnt hurt to replace them, reset the ECU (Unplug battery and hold brake down for a bit then plug it back in... Should only do this with a stock ECU) Clean AFM, give everything a good check over etc

Yeah going bigger is easy enough, going smaller would be more of a headache....... Threaded sleeve as someone already said would do the job

The combination of these 3, plus the different engine internals There are a million and one threads about cars with stock ECU's and more boost running like crap, Rich and Retard etc etc. Aftermarket ECU + Tune will = Engine running better

2nd from the right looks average, other then that looks Okay

mine looks 10mm....

It seems to have fixed itself. Might check out the wiring later on to see what the go is....

Have a problem now. Rather then creating a new thread I'll post it here. Hopefully someone can help All of a sudden my car unlocks with the remote but doesn't unlock. It still imobilises but doesn't lock :S. I can hear a noise from behind the dash somewhere (sounds like it's behind the cluster) when it try's to unlock Thanks in advance. Hopefully someone can help

Oh I see, My Greddy is easily unplugable without taking anything off lol. Mine was just a generic harnesss spliced into the wiring with a plug in between the wiring and the turbo timer lol

I'd say I'm in..... But I think my custom short shifter might not work with it lol

should be ok to just unplug, think it only splices into the ignition system and bypasses part of it for a designated time, so if you unplug it, it should still work as normal. Isnt it easy enough to just unplg it and try it out?

Yeah 5psi actuator. Solenoid takes it to 7psi above 4500rpm

Yeah I'm pretty sure thats the right way. Worst case scenario, if you hear the pump priming while the cars off or anything weird like that then change to pin 87a. But I Think 87 is normally open

Hmmmm Will see if Rob is out tonight when i finish night shift and try and work out a meeting spot with him. Ive been to airlie a few times, and I know theyve just finished building an estate on reclaimed land. but I dont know if theres any car parks in there. If so it would be a good spot. Otherwise, maybe somewhere near the marina just before you get into airlie, I think theres a decent car park around there

no If you use the normally closed circuit, your fuel pump will prime ALL the time until a circuit is passed through the coil (which will be when you turn the car on and the fuel pump circuit is energised) then the fuel pump will turn off. Normally open is in the open (no circuit) condition when there is no signal Normally closed is closed (complete circuit) condition when there is no signal Your signal in this case is your original fuel pump wiring engaging the coil. Basically if you imagine that the drawing I posted has a circle with 87a where the left hand circuit is incomplete then thats what the 87a will be. Make sense?