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Dont know a great deal about the Nissan central locking system. Just did a quick google search and have found a relay diagram and a diagram from a pulsar locking system which seemed a bit more helpful but not sure if its the same as the skyline system (or a correct diagram even) Pulsar Single wire Locking But other then what I've just googled, I dont know a great deal about how the system is wired.

Genius! thanks a bunch for that

well if you can dont tell me that publicly here Damn hey, how hard is the re-wire? (I'm guessing because that hasnt been done you can steal my car easily lol) Im pretty good with auto electrical stuff and can probably do it myself, depending on the difficulty

thats strange, never thought about that Got 2 more photos for you, hope there what you wanted, might try unplugging the box if you confirm what you said from these two photos Does look a bit like an aftermarket actuator is in there...... Must have done a lazy job of installing the alarm then I guess?

Hi Could never quite work out why my car locked after turning it on sometimes but not others, finally got around to looking in the book for my alarm and discovered that the alarm does this after 3 seconds of ignition on unless the door remains open I would like to hopefully disable this feature, but the book doesnt say how, just says to get your alarm installer to do this. Can anyone help me out with this? It is the ignition safety lock feature on a mongoose M60 series, probably around 2006 model or so, but not 100% on this as it came with the car Thanks Callan

Hi guys Basically while removing my power window black box today, I noticed a wire has been cut for the harness to the remote central locking module. Just wondering if there would be any reason for this? I have a Mongoose M60 alarm installed and I dont want to mess that up if its been cut so the alarm can run properly Heres a pic, located on drivers side door, to the right of the power window box: If anyone knows what the wire is for then it would be great to hear so I can work out if it needs to be reconnected Thanks Callan

no i noticed that to........ lol Enjoy owning a Skyline but

Those silhoette shots are great 2 shots from sydney, have a whole bunch of photos to go through and edit, shame second day I was out the sky looked like shit but oh well.... Unedited shots from darling harbour:

Jeze been quiet in here......

Good price for above clutch Otherwise ring NPC. There great to deal with and resonably priced. My clutch bites nice and hard has never slipped. Great clutch

A little bit of wheelspin can be better off the line as opposed to bogging down, you don't want to be dropping the clutch at full revs and sitting on the spot throwing smoke everywhere but

Or lots of extensions and a ratchet up the back of the gearbox works to. Helps to have a wobble extensionbar to allow some movement

Yes but I think it's illegal as you must be able to turn your headlights on without key in ignition or something like that And pretty sure the headlights do that normally on 32's. Not 100% but

Conversion*

Gates belts are well known to be noisy especially after first installed

What is the voltage with foot flat on the accelerator pedal?

Think the banjo bolts are different so lines won't fit

Air con overflowing? This does not happen. Lower high pressure sure but not overflowing Possibly meant the evaporator is blocked and icing up or the drain is blocked. Both could cause water leakage into passenger foot well But if your sure it's oil the best thing to do would be to look in your engine bay for major leaks. As the ecu is on the passenger side, the only oil near there really is from your turbo lines and rocker cover, but these are a fair way from the main loom to the ecu. Check around power steering area. Put up a photo of the ecu and surrounding area if possible

Whiteline do adjustable camber bushes which are cheaper then arms. Unless you want to adjust your camber constantly and quickly then the bushes should do the job. Check there website

Yeah sounds about right. I've never adjusted it so can't say 100% Sensors should usually operate between 0.5 and 4.5v but

It could be dependent on your voltage strength through the wiring. When you turn the car on and the alternator is powering everything up to around 14.5v, you will possibly get a slightly higher reading, just a guess but anyway. 0.4v will be outside the readable range (0.5-4.5v). Have you tried turning the TPS a bit?

Or just fifth at low revs and hold your foot down till it hits boost. Slip should be very evident if the clutch is on the way out

Pauls FAQ has in detail how to work out your injector settings. And I'm pretty sure it has a table with the settings for common injectors, which your nismo's are

Gtrs run thicker half shafts, I've done some research lol. Cause I thought the same thing, but turns out gtst ones are sligtly smaller but they still shouldn't break My wheels may just be to heavy. All I know is it does grip lots .dat file from latest tune? In Sydney right now, not home till Wednesday so I'll try and remember

The ecu doesn't get false readings from the afm. The ecu see's a high value and dumps fuel and reduces timing. With a stock turbo you won't max the AFM Just FYI