89CAL

How are we going to do this? Everyone check in to there hotel then meet up later or get in early meet up and check in after 2? I probably wont be heading down till a bit later on in the day so I probably wont be there till say 4ish..... But I wont have to check in so It wont really matter for me lol.... Should start working this out....

Nah there not. 87 will be normally open and 87a will be normally closed Or the other way around..... Think I got it right but

Sweet as. Suppose I will have to wash my car pretty good between now and then lol

Not long now. Have to go scout some good spots for photos on Friday when we get there And just a good meeting point to

Check the earth to the starter and Possibly clean the ends so it has good contact with the starter and chassis If it's around 14v when the car is running your altenator sounds alright. If the car drops below 8v I think it is then your battery is prob stuffed. Did you get a battery with the correct cca for your car? Might not have enough amps to turn the starter

Yep Found your problem FPR's are only needed if your injectors are maxed out and your to tight to buy new ones, I can understand possibly if your stock FPR breaks and you want to just replace with an aftermarket one. But end of the day stock FPR and correct injectors are the best way to go

Yeah hoping that will make it easy for him to understand. Picture tells a thousand words and all that crap lol

Heres a wiring diagram that I found on google. If you get rid of the wire from ground to the air horn compressor to the earth at the bottom then it would be similar wiring to what is required with the pump (from what I can gather) But There seems to be a debate about wether the fuel pump switches through ground or through the power wire to/from the ecu If this is wrong someone correct me with the aid of the drawing...... I havent done the rewire so I'm only guessing how it is supposed to be but this seems the most logical

13.7 is lean on boost....

Best way to see if it's your cv's is to have your hand rake on and load up the car in 1st and listen for clicking. Have someone looking under the back if possible to try and pinpoint that the noise is coming from the cv's.

Yeah so I suppose those outer rear CV joints i Changed in my R33 were non existant? You have a car with Independant rear suspension, Which means your diff stays bolted to your car while the suspension allows the hubs to move up and down so how do you think power gets to your wheels? Not to mention the slight left and right movement of the 4WS Think twice before you make a statement like that again, especially when I'm telling you what the clicking noise is because I've had it happen in my car

simple fact. If youve only change the fuel pump, the tune should be fine (SHOULD be not WILL be) Do the rewire first, as it will cost next to nothing to do. Tunes are not cheap especially if you do that then find out its the pump not getting enough voltage Or youll end up spending just as much as it would have cost for a Nismo/Tomei pump like I suggested in the first place. FYI I installed mine and the car ran no different afterwards. Do the re-wire first

Hi all Have for sale my 19" wheels that just came off my car Reason for selling: Tyres are to expensive where I live and wanted 18's Condition: Pretty good, Theres some minor gutter rash on the right hand rear wheel, probably polish it out. Theres a little spot of gutter rash on the front left as well, this is probably the worst spot on the wheel but its only a small part. Can supply photos of what I'm talking about if you want but in general the wheels still look pretty good They are 19 x 9.5 rear with a +38 offset. 19 x 8.5 Front with a +35 offset. Never had my guards rolled with these on and they look agressive without scraping all over the place. Probably wouldnt hurt to roll the guards but not necessary if you dont want to touch them (providing you have a 33 GTST) Tyres are supplied, I have near new tyres on the rear, there only about 2 months old at the most (265's, Kendra tyres, cheaper brand but quite a good tyre) Front tyres still have plenty of tread but have suffered a bit of camber wear (235's, Nankangs, Again not the most expensive tyre but good enough grip) Photos below: Bought the rims with tyres for nearly $4000 when new, wheels are only 2 years old and just in need of a good clean and polish. Asking $1500ono for the Wheels with tyres + I have either silver wheel nuts with a single lock nut or anodised blue tuner nuts (as sold by Taleb Tyres) + Hubcentric rings. PM me for a quicker reply I'd perfer pickup (Mackay Queensland) but may organise freight at your expense Will put up more photos later if I get the chance Thanks Callan

Yeah you never said if you actually did the rewire as this is the main problem with walbros. And he means you Might break something if there is air in the line as in it will lean or and detonate etc Confirm you've done the rewire and it is getting 14ish volts on idle etc

Clicking will be cv joints As for the thud...... What clutch do you have and can you notice the noise in say 5th on and off throttle? Mine thuds when j do this and its probably a worn bearing

It will probably work but they will go flat out as far as I know If you experiment with resistors it may slow the speed down. Depends how Involved you want to get lol. If you just want them to work it should work wired up through a switch straight to power. But as I said they will go as fast as the motor works on 14v

Remember that there is still only one line from the pump to the rail, so the pump can only flow what it can get through that first single pipe. Perhaps it will distribute the fuel better then a single feed I'm jot going to argue that. But you aren't going to get more flow, or if you do it won't be a great deal And you will not save your pump wear either, it is still restricted by the fuel reg no matter if you have 1 feed or 20 feeds

I thought the turbotech's were one of the better and cheaper manual boost controllers. I used to run a turbosmart dual stage which everyone says is useless but it did the job fine, not as well as my PFC boost control kit but good enough for a manual controller. If he's doing it on a budget just saying it's the cheapest boost controller that performs

This more so is tru. Given the restriction (regulator) is creating pressure for the injectors, all pressure inside the rail should be equal as long as your pump can deliver.

Nice. Evos aren't really my thing but they are a good car. Looks tidy anyway, good buy by the looks of it You can't have TWO cars better then all of ours so no mods When you say you will be doing performance parts, how big a range is this. I kinda want to find a HKS GT2835 Pro S to replace my KAI as it's not really living up to the Pro S specs as it was supposed to. Otherwise might ask HKS if putting a .8 rear on it might give me the results I want E85 will be a bonus just wish it was readily available so I could have an E85 tune to run everyday

It was nice, the guy who bought it off me ruined it IMO lol

No potholes around mackay? I haven't seen any haha Be careful and it should be right, there's lots in town. Dunno about highways

If you want to do it cheap: Nistune Turbotech boost tee 12psi Tune Should run alright then

I assume there's only a stuffed o ring or copper washer behind it Which is why it's leaking. I've never pulled one off so not 100% sure.......

I'll be making an appearance