89CAL

are these essentially a 26 d-jetro converted to plug straight into a 25 (so no vct) or are they designed to work like the standard power FC for the RB25 but with the option for MAP sensor etc??

First pic looks like it's for the carbon canister

Z145A for RB25, RB20 and RB30. Not sure about 26 but probably the same to

Hi I'm pretty sure I know what the problem is but just in case thought i should ask. Last night got in my car (had driven it just 5 mins or so before this) and started it up and drove. Going along and I hear this weird noise..... Its the passenger door trying to lock or unlock itself, Actuator keept going on and off. Not sure if it was trying to lock or unlock but it wasnt working. So anyway, tried using the button on the drivers side, didnt seem to do much, then I used my remote to lock the car While I was driving and the door stopped making noises, All good. But then when I pulled up and have a look it seems the actuator is only moving the door lock through half of its movement (from about 1/4 unlocked to 3/4 unlocked, if that makes sense) The door still is unlocked when you unlock the car and seems to be locked when you lock the car, but its making me a bit uneasy about parking it anywhere with a half functional lock on one of my doors. If you manual move the door lock it works fine, but if you leave it in the fully open position (Probaby fully closed position as well, just havent tried) and then unlock the car, the actuator makes a weird noise and then just goes back to locking and unlocking it half the movement (from 1/4 to 3/4 again) So I think the actuator might be broken but thought I'd see if anyone had any ideas on this. If its an easier fix it would be great, but I'm not really sure what else would fail. The rods for the lock/actuator/door etc are still all connected and work fine when manually moving it (the lock isnt even hard to move or anything) Thanks Callan

When oil gets in the turbo it will take some of this out, my brand new HKS 2835 KAI had a bit of float, but all good, on the car now running 18psi

bov return enters in the intake pipe (rubber ribbed hose on standard skyline setup) This vacuum acts to pull the valve up but also pull it down (in the chamber I'm not sure if theres any effective area on the top side of the valve that it can effectivly pull down) If this is the case then both pressures would basically cancel each other out, depending on surface area etc. If not then I guess the spring is in place to compensate this, the small hole I dont think would leak enough pressure through to make a difference for this

Even just coilovers make the car alot nicer to drive Many cheap yet still decent quality sets out there these days to

If your worried run 11psi. You will need an aftermarket ecu for these boost levels to be worthwhile. Plenty of fun to be had at 7psi if you've only just got the car but. Look in the DIY section here for the constant 7psi boost mod. It's easy just a matter of cutting a wire and earthily it to the car basically. But look at the DIY for more info if you want to do this

If you think of it as an externally piloted relief valve (if you've done hydraulics this will make sense) then it shouldn't matter if that port is blocked off. There is going to be say 10psi acting on the valve from the bottom (IC pipe boost) and 10psi acting on the top (from manifold to topof BOV) and spring tension at top as well So the way I see it the vacuum line is the external pilot and when you close the throttle body you will have a negative pressure on the top of the BOV and 10psi at the bottom overcoming spring tension The little hole shouldn't theoretically make much of a difference to this aspect (the BOV acting as a relief valve when throttle body is closed) at all. Really all that little hole is Doing is drawing air back to the intake which is always under vacuum, which I guess could help raise the valve by adding a negative pressure between the valve seat and internals of the BOV (if that makes sense) perhaps this just speeds up response in the quick moment between positive and negative manifold pressures. Drawings would make this easier lol

If it's daily driven the yeah 12psi should be ok. Mines daily and ran this boost for a while no probe. As long as you maintain the car that is

32 wastegate actuator.... No At 10psi the stock R33 ECU will throw it in to rich and retard and it will be either slow as F#@! or Jerk when it hits about 5000rpm. your better off doing the high boost mod with the stock boost solenoid till you get an aftermarket ECU. The chances of getting up to 200rwkw with a stock ECU are slim And I wouldnt put the turbo right on its borderline limit of 14psi I ran 12psi safely for about a year and a half, turbo came off the car and still looked/felt fine You own an R32 and you dont experience the same ECU safety measures as the R33's do, I've been there, trust me its alot better to just run the car at 7psi then wind it up further then that on factory ECU.

Good paint is all in the prep work

Saw your car yesterday. Saw the dent but didn't know it was only done yesterday. Looks pretty average, fairly gay how it happened by the sounds of it

Yeah I'm always keen to practice shooting. Getting there with the quality

I thought you were talking about car bits lol

what parcel? did you buy a sticker

With a stock ECU?

Had a play with Photoshop last night. Made this photo a bit less boring. It's alright for early days lol. You can see problems with my editing around the leaves of the tree but to late now

weather permitting lol

probably still to wet I guess, Just saw it on facebook last night

TNT this Friday is cancelled Was looking forward to seeing where my car was at

Remote b-spec mode available now. Anyone given it a go?

If the system is fine then sounds like a gas issue as said above. I think mine is in need of a gas but it's still nice and cool most of the time

Clay bar Rob. They work wonders or if that's no good I can lend you a buffer maybe

Nah have to own one. Yeah I did till about 3 weeks ago lol