89CAL

No flow is related to pressure difference. No pressure difference = no flow. Think about a bottle of gas, sitting there with 100psi of gas in it let's say. No flow but 100psi Now plug it in or open the tap and gas flows out. This is because atmospheric pressure is 14.7psi and the gas bottle has 100psi in it. Large pressure difference so large flow. You can't just say more pressure = more flow. The true statement really would be more pressure difference = more flow (across the same cross sectioned area)

NPC 10" sprung button clutch (if 10" will fit might have to go 9.5") mine cost $740. Ring them up anyway. There good to deal with I think they do twin plates for about $1400 or so

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No more spots for gearbox plugs? Mine is a bit wrecked and want to replace it, let me know, if so I'll get a gearbox and Diff plug. Havent checked back here enough All good if your not adding any more, my fault for getting in to late lol

10 psi = 10psi yes. But your cfm of air flowing through the afm will ring alarm Bells with your stock ecu. A smaller turbo closer to stock you might get away with but the T04 will flow much more air at 10psi. Hence the car responding bad

The o-rings are a special type that doesn't break down over time with fuel hitting it. That's the reason they would be expensive. I re-used my old ones on my nismo 555's purely because it was Christmas and I would be without a car for a few days without injectors. No leaks so far, but I have a front facing plenum so if they do leak it's not hard to take them out and fix them. If your desperate you can check your current o-rings for defects and if they appear ok then they may (I'm not saying definitely) should be ok to re-use What to look for. Make sure there are no cuts, pinch marks, tears etc etc anything really that makes you worry either don't use it or put up a photo. The o-rings should be a bit soft. Fuel o-rings are a little harder then some o-rings but if you can squish it a bit it should be fine. If it's rock hard and doesn't stretch etc then it's no good. That is if you want to re-use what you have. It's a pain to fix if it goes wrong and you have a standard manifold but lol. Id keep that in mind

Yeah check for a dodgy earth as well. Or a massive fuel leak Hopefully it's just a dirty battery terminal (as above). Check around there If youve been playing with that area

balancing is hit miss.... You might get lucky putting one together where it will be close enough to balanced and you will getting away with it.... But Ive seen and done balancing on turbos (heavy diesel turbos) and what they do is clean everything up, replace what needs to be replaced. Assemble the shaft, compressor wheel and thrust washers onto the shaft etc. Then place it between two spring loaded pointed ends so that the points sit in each end of the shaft, Rotate the shaft with a dial gauge on the shaft (compressor wheel end pretty sure) and make sure that the shaft sits straight with everything on. Tolerances we were going to were 0.002" or similar, If there was more then this the shaft was removed, nut loosened and either the parts rotated (one at a time, slightly) then nut re-torqued and put back on to check for straightness again. If all else failed then items were replaced (thrust washers and nut mainly, compressor wheel in worst case scenarios) till it was right. Then everything marked with some special thing for marking steel (I dont remember what it was haha) so it could be put back together the same when doing full asembly Balancing was then done, a metallic silver pen was used to paint one fin on each of the wheels, and the balancing machine setup. Then the balancing machine runs the turbo up and measures the metallic mark. The machine is pretty cool, measures vibration and degree at which the vibration occurs then bring it up on the maching, you can rotate the turbo shaft and it tells you at what degree your at, then 2 displays of where the wheels are out of balance and tells you how much weight needs to be shedded. Weight can then be removed from the wheels then the balancing repeated till it comes up within tolerances (dont remember these) Then everything was pulled off the shaft and the turbo assembled fully. The exhaust wheel and shaft were clamped in a vice and the turbo built ontop of that, minus the exhaust hosing which is installed last when all the internals are installed This is all from memory so hope I rememberd right. Im not saying this is how its done everywhere and anywhere, just how it was done. Nor am I taking shots at anyone, just trying to share my experience as it was interesting to me

Yeah we went to adrenaline, just rocked up to try our luck but he said there pretty busy for the next week (till thursday) So might try and book it in for saturday. Yeah just need a power run to see where its at

figures against the Pro S are very similar. HKS graphs it on there website as the KAI having ever so slightly more peak power (only about 3ps) with a slight loss of peak torque. The torqutarts a little earlier with the KAI from what I can see, But in saying that, its HKS saying there new turbo is better, they would never say its worse lol But the performance does feel really good so far, I'm happy with it anyway, the response and power from just the road tune are very good. Will troubleshoot a bit more when I get the time, have to get rid of an exhaust vibration so I can hear it a bit better.

Have a k&n pod. Pretty large one. Well large in terms of fatness not length. It's probably due for a new filter anyway Not a bad suggestion at all

18psi is fun Enjoying a little extra power right about now

Thanks for all the tips. My tune is resonably rich. For the most part on boost it is around 11:1 slightly leaner at times. The bov we thought was the issue but not as sure ATM. Starting to think it is just a case of the turbo producing to much boost/airflow for the engine to handle We experienced the problem between 3000 and 35000rpm so 3200 was just an average. But when we where trying this we were loading the car right up. Going from about 2000rpm or so up to the problem area. Intake is the supplied 3" hard pipe that comes in the HKS kit. Because of that and the 3"cooler pipes I have, I dot think they are the issue. Bov could be the issue but because I have the greddy type flange on the pipes it's hard to return this to stock to try and see if the bov really is the problem. Is the genuine greddy bov worth trying or will it be basically the same as what I have now? The copy BOV is a good copy of the genuine item, it's an autobahn88 item if anyone has experience with them. Tuner tried playing with mixtures/timing yesterday but had no luck. Will post up the maps if we get a chance to hit the cells where the problem is today. He has to fly out at 11 so we might not get that much done. Will let everyone know Other then that. The turbo is amazingly responsive and gutsy, very nice improvement an we haven't even chased the full potential on a dyno yet!

4th gear is fine (double checking afr's tomorrow morning before my tuner goes home) But we only seemed to encounter the problem in 5th. It's not a big issue seen as it only appears to happen in 5th but would be good if we could solve it anyway. Tune seems perfect apart from this one issue. We have tried bringing the boost on slowly with the boost controller and quickly as well. Probably played with the target boost and duty for a solid half hour or so. With the actuator not controlling the boost it comes on alot harder but still encounters this problem in 5th. I'm confused as to why it does it at 16psi but when it pushes past this it's fine at 18psi (or seemed to be anyway :S)

Yeah I have a rip off greddy bov. It works fine but yeah I've backed It off now. Had it really tight to make sure it wasn't leaking Surge is foot to the floor 5th gear. About 3200rpm

Hi all Just finished getting my car tuned with the new turbo (HKS GT2835 KAI) and we are having a bit of issue when the boost gets around 16psi in 5th gear. The problem only seems to occur in 5th so thats why we stopped chasing the issue after about an hour today, as I can live without hitting that mark for now till I work it out Anyway, the problem. It sounds like its starting to compressor surge a little bit, as it makes a very light fluttering noise in this 16psi area, now I was running the PFC boost control kit and we played around with it and we couldnt really fix it, so we scrapped that and just ran straight to the actuator and adjusted it to about 18psi. Still having the issues however, so not quite sure what it is It had proper compressor surged when it spiked once or twice and went to about 20 psi (The turbo makes a very loud, almost dose-ing noise) but the surge at 16psi is sorta sounds like the wastegate flap opening and closing really quickly and the gasses flowing out then stopping etc, not the compresor wheel itself making the noise. Running just the actuator has improved it a little but still not sure what this issue is. Other mods: Power FC Z32 AFM Tomei Fuel Pump Nismo 555cc injectors 3" Intercooler piping and GKTech 76mm thick FMIC Front facing Plenum (Greddy rip off) HKS GT2835 KAI 3" X-force turbo back exhaust One thing I havent thought about is the exhaust but I wouldnt have thought it would be an issue at the power it should be running (wouldnt be seeing more then 280rwkw atm I dont imagine, Road tuned so far) The turbo itself has the anti surge slots, similar to the T04Z's as well...... Just after some peoples thoughts on this. My tuner tried playing with the map a bit but couldnt seem to fix the problem with the tune. So hopefully someone else has had these issues and can help me out Let me know if you need any more information Thanks Callan

I don't think the stock AFM would max out that early. Hes probably seeing 210rwkw at the most on stock ecu (if it is stock ecu) The afm is not maxing out. It is seeing abnormal air flow and putting the car into fuel cut or R&R which is causing the miss. There is a difference between maxing out the afm and what is happening here. Wind the boost down. 14psi is to much for a stock turbo and you may not see stable performance till you drop it to about 8psi

Yeah I forgot to play with iso lol oops

Pfft, Liebherr (or however you spell it) I build bigger trucks in my sleep Me next to a Komatsu 960E, I build dump trucks every now and then BTW: QSK 78 Engine = 78Litre capacity, 12 turbos, 18 cylinders. 3500hp and alot of torque driving an alternator and 2 GE Wheel motors. Max Speed 64km/h I did some night shots of my car the other day, To much ISO but there was a fair bit of noise in the photo (to much ISO right? haha) but this one turned out OK

What I did was Disconnect the injector loom and the ignitor so there was no fuel or spark to the engine and just wound it over for about 10 seconds, then stopped, then another 10 seconds. something like that just to get oil flowing through the turbo. Worked for me, but thats the first time I've put a new turbo on

for some reason I thought my car just came with the filter on the return side, but I dont remember lol. And I was lazy to go check

The filter is in the return line isnt it? If its coming from the FPR on the rail to the filter then it is in the return line I'm pretty sure

yeah mine was only a cheapy as well, and was giving me weird readings, spark plug lead worked a treat

The ecu only learns to a degree. Most of this is done after a reset. Certain things it cannot fully compensate for. If your timing is way off it probably won't be able tocompletly fix this