89CAL

Pretty serious here in mackay. Everyone is getting txt messages to move to higher ground (but I think it's the same everywhere between cairns and yepoon). Pretty wild stuff, here's the evacuation zone for mackay

Im in Sydney march 11th till 16th or something. So you'se cant go then if you want photos taken

Yeah but I thought it would be just as easy and cheap to get a DET manifold lol. Oh well, guess theres no real differences apart from that boost nipple

Boost feed for your BOV you can probably just use the one that normally goes to your carbon canister if you want to go that way, or tee off another boost feed as long as its on the manifold side Why are you putting a DE plenum on?

The heat on Decel would be due to the lack of flow through the system into the engine due to the throttle body being closed? And I guess without flow the air will will absorb heat from engine, pipes etc. Something I've never really thought about till now

looks dodgy but sounds like they are saying what is written on the T is wrong and the Arrow should face the boost source instead. Personally I would either get one of those $20 boost controllers, someone should know what I'm on about Or fork out for a decent electronic boost controller if you are going to be chasing more power later on down the track. Looking at your first set of photos, it looks like you have a in cabin adjustable boost controller perhaps? Just from the looks of it, looks like the in cabin ones, but I dunno

At least the games seem to hold together alot better now, far less dropouts then when it first came out

Pretty sweet spot nah just Woolworths in andergrove, Thought the car park lights would be on but I was wrong, so we got shop front photos lol Might have to search for some better lighting tonight

I'm never happy with the photos I take. Let me know if you want me to blank out your number plate to. Forgot to do that lol

Few Quick photos from last night.....

Not from memory. I will give that a try Any more ideas?

As did I....... In FC-Edit the option for changing VCT is what Revs you want it to turn off (pretty sure). If you sit in neutral and rev the car slightly it should click on

you dont need a 100mm thick intercooler for that sort of power. A decent quality 76mm core will be fine. The thing im guessing from your setup is that your core is not flowing well (as said above) and therefore creates a restriction. Now your boost signal for your boost controller or wastegate is most likely taken from your hot side (turbo side) of your intercooler so its boosting to 24 psi as it is seeing on that side. however it is hitting 24psi due to a restriction in the intercooler which is all of a sudden non existant after the outlet so the air can flow nicely into the engine, and theres your 18psi. Ive never heard of anyone needing a 100mm core to hit 300ish rwkw, I mean if thats what you want to do then go for it but remember, Quality over quantity

Ok My problem is with FC-Hako and FC Edit to start with. And before I start I'll say I basically bought the FC-Hako to see if I could get it to work on 64-Bit Windows 7, even though it is not officially supported. This was talked about before I ordered it, and if I couldnt get it to work it wasnt the end of the world Anyway. FC Edit will work with the HAKO on my laptop, however it will after random time intervals apparently lose communication (get a warning "Interface Not Responding") There doesnt seem to be anything obvious that triggers it and I have tried a few things so far to fix it. First up I am running the latest Prolific USB to Serial drivers, have changed the COM port on the USB port I was using from COM 13 to COM 2, played with some of the basic settings for the device and also the FIFO buffers as well. I think lowering the FIFO buffers helped the problem but its hard to say because I could log from the Power FC for longer (it seemed) but it would still drop out At the moment with the latest drivers, and how everything is now - When it drops out ("Interface Not Responding") I have to close down FC-Edit and restart it to get it to log or read again, sometimes have to disconnect and reconnect the FC-Hako as well. When I had the original drivers on there (the ones I had used a while ago to trial a friends Datalogit, 2007 drivers that where on the datalogit disk) it would drop out and I could sometimes get it to start logging again nearly straight away by starting the log again Thats basically all I can think of now, basically taking a long shot and seeing if someone on here might have the magical answer for me. Its not an issue as I have access to a 32-bit Windows 7 laptop (which it works flawlessly on) but its not as convinent as using mine. System specs if it matters..... Windows 7 - 64 Bit version 4GB Ram 320GB hard drive Intel Core 2 Duo 2.4GHZ Thats all I can think of thats relevant lol..... Thanks Callan

It may just be the way your doing it if it's just a little chirp. Have you tried doing a static burnout to see if it spins two? If the fluid hasn't been changed in a while then it could help, change it anyway

Tailshaft should be marked when removed so it can be installed back into the same spot I guess the driveshaft can only go on 3 other ways but if it hasn't been taken off since it started doing this it's more likely to be another problem

I didnt really notice any throttle issues when I first got my front mount. I think the best reason to upgrade to a front mount is for security to keep the air nice and cool. But in saying that I think the R34 side mount is pretty decent for your setup though

Id say so, the clutch melted itself to the flywheel not the other way round? Get it machined and it should be fine. Or if your thinking about getting a new clutch consider buying a billet lightweight flywheel from NPC

I Just got an FC-Hako, basically decided I would see if I could get it to work on windows 7 64-bit. I had datalogit working on my windows 7 64 bit laptop and initial testing with the Hako was promising... Got it to recognise the box and read data from the Power FC straight up (using the existing drivers installed for the datalogit COM12 and COM13 used) However, I got an error after idling and reving for a bit, when I took it for a drive, It came up "interface not responding" (or similar) I havent really got time to test it anymore then that today, but despite the popular belief that it wouldnt work on 64 bit windows 7, I managed to get it running for a bit anyway If anyone has an advice I'm open to hear what you think as well

If it's dry But if so I'll be there. Hopefully looking at a much faster time then my cars done before

If it's the same as r33 gtst (I don't remember If it's r200 or not) then it's 28 spline and about 29.5mm But yeah as I said not sure if the s1 33 gtst diff is the same or not

If you get a can of Aerostart or similar and spray it around while the car is idling it should raise the revs if theres a leak as it will suck it in. Perhaps not as good as the method mentioned above but if your looking to do it without spending to much that would be the the way to go

BTW, Why is this in the Drivetrain section?

Sorry I was half asleep lol....... Thats the way I was trying to say, small stuff up on my behalf sorrry about that

All good lol come for a drive fag