89CAL

Try the manifold before you change things?

I dont mind the last model SL55 and the newer S-classes (with the 2 squarish headlights next to each other?) Some of there cars are pretty nice but I'm not sure about build quality. some are making rediculous power but

Do you have any idea at all what you want to do?

I snapped a rear axle with 195rwkw. But I think that was no real indication of the strength of the axle. Know plenty of other GTST's with more power or harsher drivetrains that have been fine I think I was just unlucky. have you considered a 1.5 way? A friend went from a locked diff to a 1.5 way in a 32 and was very happy with it. seemed very predictible and locked hard (Nismo 1.5 way I think it was) There not terribly cheap to buy outright but he got his second hand at a decent price so if your lucky something like that could show up, or you might find something on import monster or a japanese spares site. I dont know much about the GTR Diff's but I can tell you for sure that the axles are thicker and stronger. But I didnt really think at 300rwkw you would be snapping axles (despite me snapping one with 100kw less)

Does sound rather good. Its not much more then what I'm paying for Motul Oil and a filter I assume the HKS oil is good stuff that they use on there race cars? I havent really heard much about it, but imagine being HKS it would be good

Nothing wrong with being a TA and getting payed $26+ an hour I reakon. I'm a Forth year diesel fitter. Operators at the mines are payed well as are TA's even in town. I dont know why your so worried about being a 'shit kicker' as above, put in the effort and someone will notice then if one day you say "hey I want to be an electrician" or whatever, they will put you on an apprenticeship straight away.

What do you want to do?

As above. It just puts load elsewhere in the engine. You may get slight benefit of there being no drag when the thermos are off but still. Its alot of effort for little benefit

I got sick of my wireless being crap to my ps3 so I bought a d-link powerline AV I think it's called. Plug one in near your router (power socket in wall) and the other in near our ps3 and it turns your electrical cables into a network basically. I was skeptical but it works great! I run my t-box and ps3 through a cheap router in my room and never ever have issues with Internet dropping out with this setup. But that's just how I did it and I think mine was just because of bad signal BTW: GT5 b-spec iPhone app would be amazing

Hot pipe? Pull it off and take it to an exhaust shop and say you want "one of these but shiny" and they will make you a nice stainless one

The 6U9000 is just an AUS number or something. Try it without that and just start from the ECR33 and it should work

Might be best pulling the fan off the water pump and having a good look at it. If your lucky something might have just come loose

Ring NPC . They make a good product and will tell you everything you need to know an recommend a clutch

Prob 2 hours or so depending on your tools/experience Need to take back seat out (for r33) and have an extra jack because you might need to jack the hub up. FYI I had to raise the rears by 25mm and fronts by about 15 for it to sit nice and not scrape so maybe do the same before putting them on the car. Im guessing they ship them all the same way anyway?

They dont really rob much power at all, and are work better then some thermo fan setups..... Check all the bolts, it sounds like something is wrong... Is just the plastic part with the fins loose? or the whole thing (viscus hub as well)? Might have loose bolts on the water pump but id think if that was the case youd have lost it by now.

Yes but I was giving an example of how the turbo behaves respective of load. Not wether or not it will stay consistent if it reaches it's boost level. I felt it was a better example then saying you won't hit target boost in neutral (unless maybe your on limiter) as opposed to flat to the floor in third. The hill thing was just an easier comparison of load. OP: read the manual to see if what I have said in my last post is in there and if it says the reason behind doing that mod. Might be for boost creep rather then your problem I forget. Otherwise I'd try putting stock parts bak on to trial (BOV and boost solenoid mainly) if it starts working then it will show you your problem

Doesn't really matter when you tighten the bolts for the coilover. Putting it on the ground wont effect tension on the bolt/studs. When I did mine I just did them nice and tight so can't help you with the torque settings

Greenline as well www.greenline.jp or something like that

Front has driveshafts in 4wd models

Boost is proportional to load really. As someone said go up a steep hill in first and you'll make more post then going down a steep hill in first. On a straight road you should really reach a decent boost level, maybe a few psi short of set boost depending on what your running. I def hit 10psi on stock turbo in first and am able to do about the same with my new turbo which is only set to run 13ish psi ATM. I had a dual stage on mine and it seemed to work fine right up until I installed the power fc boost kit. My dual stage was turbo smart and they did recommend that you remove the ball (and possibly the spring as well) in the t piece (where it splits to go wastegate one way and boost feed the other) I did this and it seemed a bit better. I'm not sure if the HDI kits are the same. Is there anything like that in the instructions?

3" intake pipe 3" cooler pipes 3" exhaust Ive got a trend going

just jap seems to be about the same as Nissan is here

check the resevoir in the engine bay (its to the right and dow a bit from the brake booster/master cylinder) it looks kinda similar to the brake master cylinder but smaller. to bleed you will need someoe in the car to pump the pedal then hold it down, crack the bleed nipple (theres one on the master cylinder, and one on the slave cylinder, best to do master cylinder first then slave) once the air/fluid has stopped coming out (starts trickling out) Then tighten the bleed nipple and repeat. keep your resevoir topped up throughout this. basically like bleeding brakes lol

not the cheapest to replace if your looking at a new one to. Id try to find a good condition second hand one personally

i had a funny feeling it was the aac plug because if its still plugged in the computer can open or close the AAC valve? But hey it probably is the TPS. It should work if you can get it into base idle mode anyway.... dunno why it wasnt changing the idle Screw in for revs down and screw out for revs up I think? Been far to long since ive had to do this lol Perhaps try resetting the stock ECU if its still the standard one