89CAL

It's a pain the first time you do it. I've had mine out a few times so pretty good at it now lol.... Need 14mm ratchet spanner, 14mm socket and extensions and maybe a swivel. 3/8 drive is best

Seen plenty of cars htting 300rwkw + without cutting the mesh out of Z32 AFM's etc

Looks great with some fresh paint on it Ben And those rims.... Perfect on the car Looking very good

Well it sounds like your clutch hasnt started slipping, sounds like theres not enough travel to engage the pressure plate to disengage the clutch so in that case.... some sort of pivot ball issue? I'm not sure what happens when the pivot ball fails, I know it leads to clutch issues. You could maybe grab a torch and pull the rubber boot for the fork aside and see if theres anything obvious. But I'm not sure how much you will see. How much travel does the slave have?

Its a bit of both. The gates belts are known to be noisey when there newish and gradually over time as they wear in they get quieter. I dont have a gates belt but have heard of this being the case. Have a friend with a gates timing belt that makes the same noise. Still running fine. Unless you recall it being a bit tighter then you think was right then it should be O.K

I would bleed the master and slave just to make sure there is no air in the system, or a leak. Did you replace the clutch line? I know the master and slave are new but new doesnt always mean it will work. better off catching it now if thats what it is and claiming waranty. If you bleed everything and then its still the same then you probably have a clutch problem. If it works all good then gradually goes away again then you have a problem somewhere between your pedal and the clutch fork. Fork is moving, but may not be moving through the full motion

1. Search 2. Search 3. Anyones guess 4. Anyones guess

You should never "change" the water In a battery. Just buy some distiller water and top it up with that

Hey phil. Edit some photos and put them up. I want to see lol

Very vague info you've provided. How wide. What offset. What tyres. What size rims. You need to provide what you want to know and what your thinking

Easy. Drain coolant from radiator. Remove radiator hoses, put your garden hose in the port for the radiator hose on the block and blast water thrrough the block, put everything back together. Run some coolant through it and get temp up past your thermostat opening temp, let it circulate. Drain that if you want then put your fresh coolant in Or something like that

I'd say that will be your problem....... there is a guide on here to adjust the timing. The best way to check it is to get an ignition lead. Remove Coilpack number one and put the lead on the spark plug at one end and put a bolt or something in the end of the coilpack so you can put the other end of the lead on there. Then you can check the timing as usual The loop method (wire off the ignitor) doesnt work all the time Standard timing should be 15 degrees at idle (must unplug the AAC valve or TPS, I forget which one, have a search around here, the guide is somewhere) To adjust, loosen the bolts for the CAS and move left to right till its 15degrees BTDC Cyl 1

Sweet I'll look into that. And just to rub it in - LBP + patch took all of 1 hour to download. No problems here with my 2mb/s download speed I was tossing up between dead nation and another. Def not wipeout but. Pretty dull game that one I got a new LG 47" Full HD LED Cinema 3D tv the other day. And wow black ops and GT5 in 3D is something different lol

Check your timing? Basics first before jumping to conclusions. Might be your CAS

I'm downloading little big planet for my first game, which of the others is the best?

My wheels are still for sale. $1200 Worth trying again I guess..... Lol

To easy. Worth a try lol

Price Drop: $1300

Buy my wheels, there similar Wheels

Is this with atmo BOV cause the best place for AFM is where it is in stock position Z32 handles up to 350rwkw I think

I think the turbosmart ones you can remove just the ball... I'm not sure what the deal with it is but I did it with my dual stage and it worked.... Can't say it worked any better cause this was a long time ago Worst that can happen is it will run actuator boost I guess

Mmmmmm Brembo's haha You gonna get your photo DVD from airlie? That goes for all who were there to

Nah packing with grease and pushing something that will fit down the guts should be fine. You may not need to replace the spigot bush but. May just need greasing

The GT2835 KAI does not perform as well as the Pro S. I have just over 240rwkw with one and the most I've heard of out of one of these is 250ish rwkw, with noncoms but Stao from hypergear thinks it's because of the anti surge holes that cause a slight loss in flow

Hicas has nothing to do with airbag. I suspect it's just a cheap boss kit that doesn't work. Get a photo of the boss kit (where it mounts the the steering column not the wheel) and I will tell you what the problem might be I suggest getting a quality boss kit. I got a works bell one that works fine (HICAS Compatible)