89CAL

2 R33's in the marina? I'm thinking about CP pistons and spool rods. But I'm not going for big numbers

probably not much It was a private sale so I dont think theres alot you can do about it

Wish the sorting system was better on the PS3's. I've got all my top gear on there. Wish you could make folders to put stuff in but oh well

That pro bolt site has an Australian site. Think I'm gonna order some bolts soon

Better to use 98 if possible. But if you cant then octane booster is prob a good idea. 98RON is a lot cheaper then 95 + octane booster

Reset ecu, clean AFM, clean AAC Do these simple things first

Pm taleb tyres (there a trader on here) I've bought 2 sets of mags through them and they have done done a great job with my offsets and Ali is very helpful

Yeah might be good to learn a few things. There's a few places I know I need to fix up, especially where it comes on to boost as I want it to be a bit more fueley and run a bit more timing there. Once I fix up my wiring for my wideband it will properly dump the AFR's straight into map watch, it does this already but the earth point to my FC-Hako is not where it should be so I don't trust the values to much (but they are pretty close anyway As for knock, well I'm pretty sure my sensors are wrecked or picking up some random noise as it registered 61 knock the other day when I had been off throttle (no braking or clutch either) for a whole second or more. There shouldn't be any knock at that point, right after foot off the gas I might consider it engine noise registering as knock but not after parts have already begun decelerating Theres more things to make me think my knock sensors are wrecked but I won't go into it. Inconsistency is one of the main reasons but Lean cruise AFR's are what I'm looking at ATM. Been getting good fuel economy since my last little tweak but it still needs a bit more work at certain speeds but so far my fuel needle is still on F and ive done just over 100km, it will plummet soon but As for the coilpack dwell, I'm interested to learn it, not sure how far I want to push it given the way ive been f**ked over for money in the last few weeks. That's enough iPhone typing...... That shit is annoying haha

Formula 1 Style DRS would be cool lol best of both worlds

they look like series 2 lights with the top bit painted/vinyled to look like eyelids (havent ever seen eyelids for S2) Love it with the Miesters

AFAIK they have to be removed and tested with an oscilliscope, but you must know the frequency at which the sensors register knock as well

Group buy on some bolts (Allen key style) in various colours? Not sure if anywhere in Aus does colored bolts like this?

Heating the crank is not a great idea...... If it's not twisting then you have a bit of an issue. It shouldn't be that tight

Ring NPC and talk to them. They are really helpful and they make a great product Have had my NPC 10" sprung button clutch for over a year now and it's a great clutch. It's softer then the exert cushion button I used to have and bites unbelievably well. It is still a button clutch so it takes a bit of getting used to but it's not to bad around town where I live. Also have a billet flywheel off them which is good as it has cooling slots that direct some air into the centre of your clutch. If money isn't an issue then maybe ask about there twin plate cushion button. Sounds like a good product and doesnt cost much more then getting the single plate and a flywheel anyway (from memory)

Vice grips, twist and pull should be the easiest way? Adjust them so you can use the tip of the vicegrips to grip it tight

Yeah check AFR's to make sure its all safe and will be good to see the difference 2.5" sections of exhaust running that boost and power would have been restricting so you will probably pull a little more power, wether the tune needs touching or not

You don't necessarily gain more power by running it right on the edge (12:1 or so). It was discuss not long ago that the japs run 10:1 AFR's and more timing to get just as much or more power as tuning done over here with leaner mixtures and less timing. I think 16.5:1 is a bit lean for the lean cruise AFR's personally. But that's more up to you

Yeah im talking about power not spool time but

leaning out the tune under high load/boost wont really improve fuel economy. You want to have the AFR's there Safe rather then economical The economy comes from your lean cruise points, so at constant 60km/h, 80km/h, 100km/h etc. Having your own wideband + tuning software makes this easy and you can get it running pretty good My best friend used to tune my car for me and he said my car actually responded better to having a bit more fuel chucked in when boosting

The instructions for my AEM wideband said the best spot was about 1m from the turbine exit but this may be to prolong sensor life?

I dont think they know what Skylines are in Gladstone? lol You might have to drive to Rocky for a tune

no, the problem with atmo BOV's is that your AFM has seen x amount of air flow through. Then you have an atmo BOV which then makes some of that air disapear. So your car then has (I'll over exagerate it to prove a point) say half the air the AFM has registered. So instead of getting x amount of air with y amount of fuel, your getting 1/2 X with 1 Y Therefore it runs extra rich, nearly stalls till the BOV closes and the AFM can catch up. as long as the BOV is plumbed back it shouldnt matter all that much where the air is returned as long as it gets back in before the turbo. As air will always flow towards the turbo (unless your getting compressor surge) so the air from the plumback pipe will flow that way as well.. The problem I'm guessing you had is that you ran the Atmo BOV for a little bit, changed back to plumback and your ECU went weird. I had the same problem. Pulled an ATMO BOV off and it still had all the symptoms of an Atmo BOV. Cleaned AFM, cleaned AAC, did this and that and nothing worked. Reset ECU and ran fantastic. The ECU's are touchy, I think that might have been the issue and changing the pipe somehow fixed it. Where the air inserts back into the system shouldnt matter to much as long as its between the turbo and AFM. But thats just the way I understand it from what little I know about fluid dynamics.

nah, was hoping to get a 12 on street tyres did a 13.0 at 110mph in full street trim at the drags when Ben and co debuted the R32 GTR. Since then I've run slightly faster MPH but not a faster time Will get some sort of rubber on smaller rims when I have money again lol

lol no, cant afford that at the moment the MPH is there Just have to put it all together, I dont care if its a 12.999999999999, I just want a 12 lol the tune has a little more left to give I think just have to check my base timing. If not then I'll get some slicks, still waiting to get answers from HKS about this turbo. Really regretting not buying the Pro S 3 months earlier instead of waiting for the exchange rate to get better but anyway.... Brisbane will be fun to

I'll be in Bris, otherwise I'd be touching up the tune, stripping some weight and getting my God Damn 12 second pass haha