89CAL

Pedders sell an aftermarket tie rod ends for R33, there are 3 different sizes (thread) from memory. mark where your old ones are and then try and install your new ones to the same spot. I'd recommend getting a wheel alignment afterwards.

Better built, but everyone loves an underdog lol One of the reasons I never skid = axle tramp. Shook the sunroof controls from the roof it was that bad. Hopefully will be getting much better launches when i head back out to the drags

No i stuffed up and said they would sit in the guards more lol. But yeah that's more of a gtr/silvia fitment (+12)

EDIT: I screwed up basically, go outside to your current rims, get a ruler and measure 18mm, imagine your current rims are sitting that much extra outside the guard basically. I dont know how +30's sit on a 34 so you will have to see if that helps with what will need modifying, or if it is possible

More importantly they are a reliable turbo

The new rear one is this one: Nolethane Rear Diff Bush The fronts are whiteline, would have liked to have gone whiteline rears but nolethane seem to be the only ones that sell the rear kit. Ah well there easy to fit, just slip in from the rear and diff bolts up. Think I need to put the spacer washers they supply in mine but, it clunks a bit on take off. I dont really think you'll be able to yank the old bushes out the way you've described. if you pull from the middle steel section your gonna be pulling the rubber section basically which is just going to expand and contract and not really do anything (unless you manage to pull the rubber out of the outer section of the bush. I'm not sure how much room there is in there with the diff out completely, but for me there wasnt really much space to put anything in there to knock the bush out. As far as I can see, the way I did it is the only way I can really see it being possible unless there is more room with the diff completely out to swing a hammer and punch/socket that matches the outer steel section of the bush short of working out how to use a pressing tool to get it, or pulling the subframe out and doing it on a bench, which would be easier but take alot more time

I've just replaced all my Diff mount bushes and the car is now near perfect. Have only done a quick test but it seems to have eliminated the axle tramp completely I've posted this in another thread but I'll repost the same here. The front bushes are easy enough, just have to drop the diff enough to slide the old ones out and slide the new ones in. The rears are a bit of a pain in the ass. You dont have to push them out if you have the right tools Heres what I used, Die Grinder and air hack saw: All I did was use the die grinder to basically "drill" into the rubber then use the air hack saw to cut through the metal parts of the bush. Could probably use the air hack saw to go through all of it, but found it easier to do it this way. Then I used a large flat blade screw driver to peel up the outer steel part of the bush. Be careful not to cut into the subframe or anything. End result: And this is what it looked like with the new bushes in: and the old front bushes: New bushes installed: Hope this helps anyway, you can do it without pushing the bush out anyway

Last laptop i bought was a 13" Samsung. Its been the best laptop I've had so far. My last Toshiba laptop was pretty good, but so far the Samsung is performing better advertised 7 hour battery life (although I can only get about 5hrs out of it, its still pretty good). I use it for tuning every so often and its a good size/peformer for that Has a graphics card, but dont really remember the specs, didnt buy it for that anyway lol

Rocker Cover Gasket Kit - $88

thats been on for a while, diff mount bushes are new

Axle tramp elimination (hopefully)

E=MC2

So I changed all the bushes for my Diff today, front ones are easy, just have to drop the diff a bit, pull the old ones out, put the new ones in The rears are a pain. Have some photos to show what I did for anyone who wants to replace them Ok so I used a Die grinder and air hacksaw: Basically i pulled the diff out slghtly so it had dropped down a bit and was out of the way (was to much of a pain to get out, would have had to drop the exhaust and sway bar possibly So I got the die grinder and basically just used it like a drill to get rid of some of the rubber, then used the air hack saw to cut through the steel parts, Could probably have just used the hacksaw for everything but i found it easier this way. Then once I had done this in 2 spots I used a large flat screw driver and a hammer to curl them up a bit and knock the bush out. They looked like this afterwards Finished product: Old front bushes: New front bushes fitted: As for the play I was experiencing in 5th, well its still there, so pretty sure its a gearbox issue for me. But theres something that just feels a bit better now with the new bushes in. Yet to see if its fixed the axle tramp, will try that out sometime soon

*sigh* BOV has nothing to do with controlling boost, leave the BOV system how it is (assuming its all working fine) If your talking about the small VAC line that runs from the steel BOV return pipe to the standard solenoid then yes block this off

For a start you havent listed what boost controller your using which would have made it hard to help if you hadnt already listed the soloution to the problem. The return hose from the BOV will have no boost pressure in it while the throttle body is open (ie making boost) so therefore will not activate your actuator to control your boost if the book says to get the feed from the intercooler piping or turbo housing, and your getting the boost feed from somewhere else, do you really need to come on here and ask what the problem is Incase you are talking about the boost/vac line to the top of the blow-off valve then that should work but is not ideal, much better off getting your feed from the turbo side of the throttle body not the manifold side. If this is what you meant then you may have the lines on the solenoid back to front.

Bask in the GM Glory: Wow..... I feel as dirty as that engine for posting this...... lol

Everyone knows 202's are the best engine ever...............

Coppers don't perform better. they perform the same but are far cheaper, they just supposedly don't last anywhere near as long You can't just say there better. if i could get iridiums for the same price id probably run them

ix are irridiums or platinum aren't they? Just get some copper heat range 7 plugs to try out

What heat range are the plugs?

20w50 seems a bit heavy in an rb......

AluFab (or AIS I think it is now) do some great work as well. Dad had them make a new piece for a fender made and it was a great quality product they produced, just by having the damaged one as a base to.

Fixed And it all depends how much effort you are putting into it. Are you going to source the parts yourself and do it yourself? Or have someone else/a workshop find all the parts and do it all for you? Cost will vary according to which end of the scale you are at

good results on what looks like a very safe tune

Both housings are 0.68 i think just the KAI comes with the Nissan dump style flange and anti surge slotted front cover. Ill have to double check the housing size, may be .64 Anyway: If i had to do it again id go for a gtx3071 or a hypergear. don't get me wrong, its a great turbo if you want to make around 250rwkw, but its certainly not a replacement for the pro s. seems a bit like a gt-rs replacement really 255rwkw is the most I've heard of bolted to a neo with cams. when i sort a few things out ill probably send it off to Stao for a look, so it will probably end up a HKS/Hypergear hybrid and ill win this thread