89CAL

ID Tag info or photos will help a lot. Could be anything without more info

Huh? Have another go at the spelling..... Did you lose fluid from the whole system? If so you will need to bleed master cylinder then start at the furtherest caliper from the resivior (so rear left) bleeding one at a time working to the closest caliper If there's air in the system then it hasn't been bled properly

The bit I've got pictured or the whole assembly?

excellent, new bits for me. Suppose I will have to give Rob some money now but lol Give me a call this afternoon (Mackay Rob)?

Yeah I'm trying to find one from a wrecked 33 off here, stuff going through Nissan lol. Was gonna repair mine but I'd need a new seal and who knows what else would break so would probably end up costing to much Thats a tidy R32, almost makes me wish I'd got one

$120 per litre? :S

have you got some old bits of plastic from the front bumper? If so grab them and the front bar and take it to a plastic welder and get them to repair some of the bar, then you should be able to give it another go

Hi I'm chasing the main sunroof glass section for my R33 Series 1 (2 door) It's this part: Mine has rust around the outside (water has got in the seal by the looks of it) and I'm hoping to find someone with a good condition replacement so I can just do a swap NEED to make sure it doesnt have rust like mine: This can be seen pretty easily with the sunroof fully closed and shining a light to the outer edges (from inside the car). This is how I saw this in the first place The sunroof is easy to take out, two trim pieces and 6 nuts and it just pulls out the top. I'm in Mackay Queensland (4740) so if you have a good condition one give me a PM Thanks Callan

So pulled my sunroof out today and saw the extent of the rust damage. So if anyone knows someone with a this part of the sunroof that wants to sell it then let me know, I was gonna take it in to get repaired but that might cost a bit to much.

you'll know when i know lol

Looks like im out for Easter. my roster for my new job is good for everything but Easter think some of you guys were coming the week before? If so ill see you guys then Phil and Rob: i think fritz and Rob are gonna pick up my stuff for me

Hey Ben. how much you thinking of selling the 350 for. have a mate who's after one (PM me if you want.

yep deff series one heres how the series 2 fits

Ah ok. Yeah still not sure about the spaces.... Look at the photo. theres a big gap between the grille and the bonnet and the top of the headlights and the bonnet.

What about this one? SAU BLUE THREAD

The best thing to do is trial fit, mark, cut trial fit, mark, cut When I had the series 1 front on mine I didnt have to cut that far into the bumper to get the FMIC to fit. From the front you couldnt really notice the bar was cut at all Just trial fit everything and adjust it to fit. My intercooler ended up being mounted on an angle (one side sat further forward then the other and tilted back a bit to) and it JUST cleared everything. Best part was I didnt really have to remove much from the front bar and reo

O.K so are you going from a series 1 bumper to a series 2 bumper? If so you will need: The Series 2 Front bumper The Series 2 REO bar (reinforcement bar that the bumper clips/bolts onto) Series 2 headlights Series 2 bonnet (The series 1 bonnet does fit but doesnt look good Series 2 Grille This is what it looks like with the series 1 bonnet and series 2 everything else: As for the spacer.... Well I dunno, that could be a bit of foam that I know some other car manufacturers use just to take up space between the metal work and the bumper (My girlfriends old astra had this) But I dont think This is on the series 2...... Perhaps the white clip that holds the bumper on and in position? Did you get a price on it? If I'm completely off track then disregard All I have said lol

9" or 9.5" rears 8.5" fronts I've run both these combos. good amount of grip and look good if you fit decent tyres. i had 235 fronts and 265 rears on both combos

4" might look neater but like you say leaving it 3" is cheaper/easier

You can just use a 4" to 3" silicon adapter, some of the HKS kits come with this The GTX3071 is only a 4" inlet because of the port shrouding, if you look at the compressor wheel, its only about 3" when you dont include the port shrouding. I dont think a 3" intake would ever be much of a restriction with this turbo

so its all good now? Ah well thats a bonus then I'm not sure the differences between the 34's and 33's. But I know on mine I have a loom that runs inside the guard, so it would be the earth for that. I think That may include the lights but so it may have been the issue. As for why it happened in the first place.... well not to sure. May have just been pure coincedence, just keep an eye on it

you can check your earths if you have a multimeter by putting the negative on the chassis (at a good earth point or on the battery negative would work) and then probing the earth wires at your headlight circuits checking for resistance. If you get a high resistance on your earth circuits then that might be your problem. Basically if you know a thing or two about using a multimeter I would just go around checking as much as you can. If you want some help doing this I can tell you what to check for, but really it sounds like your drawing a hell of alot of current which might not be so easy to check for, unless you know someone with one of these: Linky Measuring the current draw will help alot when putting the high beams on

Power FC's are the opposite. The setting is the RPM you want it to turn off. The VCT is only needed in lower RPM. This is how it works in simpe terms. Its not on at idle, I think it switches on at either a certain RPM (Which is low anyway, just above idle) or once certain conditions are met (like throttle position/load etc) But the adjustable setting with the Power FC is for when it will turn off EDIT: Why was it necessary to dig up a thread from 2010 to point out a (wrong) fact?

it just seems a bit odd that its causing the revs to drop and your head unit to restart. So was anything changed/broken/swapped/touched before this started happening? So high beams and foglights? Check for a shared earth I guess. so when you say the car recovers, does that mean the revs drop etc then slowly the revs pick back up and voltage returns to normal (14ish volts)? Ill have to have a think about that one

My Girlfriend has one. Its a nice gearbox, drives like an auto when in drive, and is lots of fun in sport. Personally, I couldnt live with it cause I hate autos and its a bit to much like an auto for me, but absoloutly cant fault the gearbox. For a daily but its great, I drive it when I cant be bothered driving around with my button clutch haha