89CAL

Yeah you cant bridge the reverse plug or your reverse lights will always be on. I agree with above, best way to do it. From memory the transmission loom unplugs around the starter motor, so its not to bad to swap

Yep Pic 1 is Auxilary fan plug Second plug is stock boost solenoid plug You need to get your Water temp sensor (for the ECU) working properly or the thing will run rich all the time. The O2 sensor is only really used on cruise/light throttle, so will not affect the fuel as much as the ECU thinking the car is always cold

so the Toyota gear is interference fit but no grub screws like the crank collars? Looks pretty good, I'm not real sure what the hold up with the Nitto version is? there was alot of talk about it a while ago. Didn't think it was that hard to make a gear instead of a crank collar and adapt the oil pump gears to suit? But perhaps it had to be tested fully before putting into production

They sold these shirts and jackets a while ago after his abu dabhi win last year. There was another slogan, cant remember what it was off the top of my head......

Just realised, I went from a polyurethene mount to a nismo mount so I cant really compare, the Nismo mount feels good but.

Speaking of Mclaren, thought they were supposed to announce their new title sponser at the start of this month?

Same faults as this. On Galaxy S4, running the latest software for the phone and the app is up to date

Yeah expect alot of noise/vibration with solid mounts. No thanks. Absoloutly nothing wrong with stock or nismo mounts.

I miss that Lucky Strike BAR livery, worst thing they ever did was the Earth Livery but.......

I've got Nismo mounts all round now. Havent driven the car, but no complaints Hard to compare, my old LHS engine mount was in 2 pieces when I pulled the engine out, so it feels nicer now, but thats to be expected

From what I'm hearing it is quite a step up from the PS3. I want one, but I dont mind waiting for stock to come back into Aus Maybe someone was nice and pre-ordered me one for christmas... doubt it but lol

I may be missing something, but if you have a turbo motor sitting there, why not jut put that in? Sounds easier then changing bits over, not to mention the comp ratio will be right on the turbo motor If the turbo engine is blown then disregard this

Put a stock BOV on (if you have access to one) or a plumback BOV and then reset the stock ECU 90% of the time this is the problem. It has nothing to do with the valve sealing, its got to do with the way it can operate when you come off throttle. It can let some of the metered air out, the ECU will throw to much fuel in (Because some of the metered air is gone) and this can stall the car or get it close to Even if you dont think its the issue, try it anyway. By the sounds of what you are doing, the AAC valve solenoid will be opening fully and might just be enough to keep the car running. From what I understand, the AAC valve never gets to full open under normal conditions.

what I said might have been a little confusing on each side there are 2 fixings for the bar, one is a bolt into the chassis, the other is a stud that comes out of the chassis with a nut on it. So there are 4 altogether, 2 on each side. 1 nut and 1 bolt on each side. If you get me

That'll do it lol. Your going to have to re-write your essay of a signature you have there to be even longer lol

Tell that to all the people that will lose their jobs, the increased unemplyment rate in the country and the economic impact it has. To say 'oh yeah other people make better cars so it doesnt matter' is the stupidest thing I think you could possibly say Have you even looked at the VE commodore? Holden were targetting mercedes etc with it and I must say (and I wasnt really a fan of the VE) They have done a pretty good job. Maybe its not quite there but they are also a hell of a lot cheaper. Honestly, grow a brain

nope, one bolt on either side, one nut on either side. It's as easy as it looks

With ignition key on, their should be voltage between AAC valve terminal 2 and earth Also should be continuity between ECCS C/U (ECU) Pin 4 and AAC terminal 1 The other test it shows must be using some sort of diag tool or laptop (possibly Consult) because you can raise or lower the AAC valve opening degree to test it. Have you tried cleaning the AAC valve? Reset the ECU (If it is standard)? What mods does it have (does it have a vent to atmosphere blow off valve)? Is the problem new (Since you have fitted something) or been happening for a while? Also found that resistance accross the coil (AAC Valve) should be about 9-10 ohms)

I hate all the stuff to 'reduce speed' and 'reduce downforce' When will they stop? Cars will look like they did when they first started exploring wings. Just a cylinder with a a board on the front and back Good find with that video though. Probably the best visual show of 2014 rule changes I've seen

Yeah but I still want to see them lol

Auto?

I see where they are coming from with the double points for the last round, but its not the right way to go about it I want to see 2014 cars!

You can shoot the shells backwards too hey....

Why the change of heart back to skylines?

I blame you Phil