89CAL

I thought they had pneumatic valves? or are they only pneumatic assisted? or is this a new thing with the new engines? I'd like to know much more about the new engines, why do they have to be so secretive

How much are you chasing for that engine Phil? I have a mate thats after one (unless he has found one by now), but it might be a bit of a longshot, not sure if he is able to go pick it up. I'll let him know if you give me a rough price

If you can get it to work by bypassing the pressure switch, then is it likely that your pressure switch is no good? They do stop the AC system running if the pressure is low to prevent damage to the compressor

CV's if everything else looks fine. Can also be the Nut that holds the shaft into the hub is a little bit loose. They run a castleated nut and split pin. If you can isolate if it is one wheel or both then you can tighten the noisey one up by one hole. Unless it seems way to tight already

Id love to get some storm shots. But it never really happens here. And when it does the rain hits to quick or im nowhere near my camera. Love shots of cities with lightning hanging around. Would be great

Link or vipec

Bump

I can never get my HICAS to go into Diag mode, not sure why that is What is your fuel level when the light is coming on under acceleration?

In regards to more wear on the cams etc. I dont think there will be an issue. I pulled my oil cap off the other day and theres plenty of oil splashing around in the head. I have the middle feed blocked and a 1.5mm restrictor in the rear I think. and this was up the front of the engine. Looks like plenty of oil getting around Plenty of other people have done the same thing anyway with no issues

What exactly do you want to know? Someone might be able to give you quick answers + more specific photos of what your chasing

Yeah no worries send us a PM when your ready and ill see if its still available

Did you read what I wrote? I never once said anything about leaning the AFR's under load and clearly said in the second paragraph 'off boost' Its not as simple as only tuning cruise AFR's, off boost means anything that is not positive pressure. This is where your fuel economy is. Tuning this sort of stuff is most of what I do with my car. I dont pretend to be a fantastic tuner at all but I know enough to do these sort of things

Not many places in aus are going to get cold enough to need it. Obviously I wasnt suggesting it was ok in all cases but usually once the cars warm there is never going to be sub zero temps around the throttle body In aus

Yeah as above My car isnt built for economy, but there is alot you can do to have the best (possible) of both worlds. This way you can baby it around town/on the highway and still get half decent economy and then have some fun when you want to. The RB25 will never be the most fuel efficent engine but there is a bit you can do to make it half decent. It's not like we mod it and go 'yeah its got power now so f**k fuel economy, I'll run AFR's of 12:1 everywhere' it doesnt work like this, the big benefit of turbocharged cars is it is possible to drive off boost and not be demanding piles of fuel

Pretty much what I thought, it doesnt matter at all which way it flows through the throttle body but figured he wanted to plumb something in as a water return If you are purely asking so you can hook the throttle body coolant lines up, I wouldnt even bother. I havent had coolant lines to mine for about 4 years with no problems at all

Id say from right to left (usually front of the engine is water returning to the rad. Are you trying to tee into the return?

Sweet as ill send you a PM

I've been having fun collecting bounties on people running rampages in tanks. Going to army base and stealing a fighter jet. It is slightly annoying getting thrown into a game with 2 people or so running around in tanks. Have had my car blown up about 20 times in the last week or so Got shot at by someone so killed them, planted a sticky bomb on their car. was waiting for them to get in but for some reason the bomb blew itself up, still good enough for a laugh, then proceeded to sniper and generally annoy the f**k out of him after he put a bounty on me. It's so much more fun when they have a mic. I'm still having fun but dont find alot of people keen on doing jobs/races anymore. Still havent raced anyone around the track I made yet

Might take the Canards off you, do they just need to be drilled to suit the front bar and location you want them?

http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bproduct.php?type=engine&subtype=Fuel%20Pumps&brand=TOMEI&series=&name=Fuel+Pump&fromlink=1

HKS GT2835 KAI Turbo for sale as per title. Located in Mackay, Queensland $1200 Info in other for sale thread: Here PM me for more info

Bump, $1200 including postage Z32 no longer available

Nah the leak was the fitting on the wastegate head (it has the option of water cooling) We modded it, cut the 90 degree fitting off the hose and put a straight in, then was supposed to have a 90 degree fitting straight onto the wastegate but the hose guy didnt have any on him, had just used them all at his previous job funnily enough. So it has had 2 x 45 degree fittings on it in the mean time. The way they were sitting and vibrations just caused it to come loose by the look of it so it wasnt a drama to fix, just a shame I never noticed it straight away. It still had coolant in it which was lucky, and checking the logs from the link the temp only got up to around 96 degrees so pretty confident at the moment that no harm was done. HOPEFULLY How much extra power do you expect with the NOS cooling the combustion down? Or is it all about pushing a bit more boost/timing in with the cooler combustion temps?

The way that you have it hooked up (as per the top right picture) seems a bit weird to me, But you really need to work out what the solenoid is doing. Having it hooked up as per your picture, does the solenoid allow airflow straight through from pressure source to wastegate? (Blow through one port and see if it comes out the other) If so then It will work The reason you want to check this is so that you know there is a failsafe in place. If there is no flow to the wastegate in the normal position then if the solenoid/wiring fails then the wastegate will not be able to open at all. which is bad obviously. I would assume that the setup is designed with this in mind but could be wrong. Actually..... After writing this and looking at the setup you have pictured, I dont see how that would work at all. because the bottom half that the solenoid is hooked into is trying to overcome spring pressure + Boost pressure (because of the boost feed on top) So therefore it is impossible to ever open the wastegate (Spring pressure constant, boost pressure rises proportionally both sides) I think that drawing is wrong and it is supposed to be drawn with no boost line to the top of the wastegate so it is only ever spring pressure.

Bit queit in here Was going to go snap some HDR photos of the skyline tonight but when I got to where I was going I noticed it had a coolant leak and the temp gauge had shot up. Bit worrying but think I managed to catch it quick enough. Lost about half the coolant so at least something was still in there. Can only find readings of about 97 on the logs so fingers crossed I avoided a bit of devastation. Might try again once im sure my car is ok. Have to go get the replacement for the source of the problem tomorrow. Was supposed to have a different fitting for it ages ago but hadnt come through yet. Lucky it was only a short drive