89CAL

Mine did this on cold start before tuning. Havent really looked since the tune but it was just condensation, clear liquid with carbon bits made it look black. Not coolant so had to be condensation I'd say if it goes away once it warms up a little then its probably just conensation

Usually the ones that retain the stock runners are pretty good because you don't lean out individual cylinders (but I don't want to get into that discussion) Without any history on it I would stick with Greddy, I'm trying to remember where I've seen one of these before but.....

Really depends on what temperature it is during the day, this has the most affect on it if everything else is working fine on a 25 degree day, cruising along, mid/low 80's is good

Looks similar to Plazmaman but is a bit different, think I have seen it before but cant remember the brand. Or it might just be one someone has made. Not too sure If you Greddy is genuine, may as well keep it?

Have you checked voltage, both resting and during cranking? Check the earths for loose bolts, corrosion and general bad connections. Also breaks in the wires (both positive and negative)

Id still use a softer hammer on cast iron, you shouldnt need a hard hammer The reason its smart to twist it to break the seal is so you dont hit one side of the housing and have that side snap loose and then snap the exhaust wheel off. I know people who have done this, It needs to come off straight or you'll need a new turbo anyway

Edit: Sorry, you said it was M12 thread, I thought it might have been the stock oil pressure sensor but with that thread I dont think it can be, pretty sure Nissan used the same 1/8 sensor for all Skylines

Injectors, coilpacks and fuel pump are all triggered off the ECU, so if your ECU isnt getting power, none of these will either

series 2 dont have an ignitor (built into coilpacks), so a bit confused at what you have done there? I assume your problem lies in the spark, as the injector harness plugs into the main loom so that shouldnt be an issue, I dont think there is a difference there between S1 and S2 (could be wrong) Have you checked it is actually sparking? To rule out the injectors you should hear/feel them pulsing if you pull the CAS out and with the key on slowly rotate the shaft.

Formula 1 2030, single cylinder Lawn mower engines

Do the R34's (GTT) have an oil temp sensor? I know the GTR's do but your Username suggests you have a GTT?

Yes the reading for timing you will get on a computer etc is an output not an input

Have you blown a fuse?

Yeah this is right. If using a single wideband then you have to remember that there are 6 cylinders feeding the one, and you can have 5 really rich and 1 lean cylinder and the wideband will tell a story somewhere in the middle

I'd wait till the next test or race day before writing the new engines off. I'm sure they are not going flat out yet. There must be plenty of engine and car tuning going on there. I know the engines have probably done thousands of hours on engine dynos, but thats different to taking it out on a track. After all they went from 1:27's on the first day to 1:24's on the second day (unless my memory has failed me ) Just shows you how much they were holding back day 1 Last year they were sub 1:20's, with all the aero differences I dont expect them to get near last years times, but there is probably still a bit left in them Or maybe I'm just saying this stuff so I will convince myself I like the new sound lol If you can hear some turbo whistle maybe it will make up for it

My experience: N1 oil pump, billet gears oil feeds - 1.5mm - blank - VCT standard Spool head drain Catch can run from cam covers to catch can - catch can to intake pipe (Baffled proflow catch can) PCV connected as standard Penrite Full synthetic 15w50 (15w40 mineral used for run in) Have had no oil burn issues so far, catch can has been dry, car has been given a hard time during tuning and havent exactly babied it since I got it back

First few laps were more installation laps, you can tell he's not flogging it I'm wondering what the Caterham nose would look like if it was JUST the dildo front end all the way, might look OK. To hard to tell but. Still want to see the Lotus in the flesh, at the moment I like it one minute, hate it the next, strange design

Going with the High IAT temps, Was there high ambient temps on the day and how long had it been on the dyno? (I'm sure you said it was being dyno tuned lol.....) Just asking because of all the hot weather Vic has had of late, might be cooking in a shed. It's a pretty obvious one so probably not the issue, but just in case noone had thought of it Can you log the timing to see if its acting normal (apart from being low)?

What is the boost doing? Is the boost dropping off when it hits this brick wall, or does it hold pretty steady?

You need to use a timing light. The ECU is telling the engine to fire at 15 degrees, its only an output. It doesnt know where the base timing actually is thats why this has to be set. Consult will help to make sure the ECU is outputting timing at 15 degrees but you can move the CAS all day and the value on the computer will not change

What oil pump, what oil and any oil control (restrictors etc) fitted?

This

Yeah but then you get full power steering all the time. I dont like light steering at high speed. Will look more when im home from work at it anyway. Have some wiring diagrams now so can check for faults between front and rear

Nose looks the best of the lot so far (maybe the lotus will look better in real life but) The black at the rear looks nice. Kimi's year

Excellent Wouldnt even mind if they changed it a bit.