89CAL

No. Supposed to be a flanged bolt (basically a washer built in) and one thick washer, about 5mm or so thick I think it is. This is from memory but looks like someone may have possibly used an RB20 bolt and washer or something?

Yes s1 and s2 power fcs are the same

Yep and you can set the output as a TEST (PWM) to test it. I think I tested mine and it clicks ona nd off rapidly. Think I did it at about 20hz

As per your other thread. You shouldnt go jumping to conclusions and warning everyone off somewhere. It hasnt eaten your paint just heavily watermarked

get your VIN off the car, I'll find what you need on fast. Amayama will be able to get it. PM me the VIN and the exact stickers you want and I'll see what I can do

Be very careful if you have never used an orbital polisher before, you want to keep the thing moving and not focus on one spot for too long. Even doing it properly the paint gets pretty warm I have used drive in car washes heaps of times before, havent really had any issues. The spot free rinse usually works pretty well, but I still would rather wash it at home. And like I said before, its pointless going back there and firing questions at them about the service. Water is water, they wouldnt treat the water they get so you cant expect to much.

Use bulkhead fittings to go from engine bay to outside, means you have to buy some extra ends for the braided line, but prevents rubbing and having to cut holes (or run the lines further to existing openings) Mine are run with short braid from the oil cooler sandwich plate, to hardlines that go along the chassis rail to bulkhead fittings at the front to 2 more small braided lines to the cooler itself. The hardlines were free, and not completely necessary, but they just prevent things rubbing and look pretty neat Bulkhead Fittings : Mine are ones for hydraulic hoses so are steel instead of aluminium. Might be cheaper for steel ones. Pirtek or any hydraulic hose shop should have them

Altenator? Yeah that'll do it, R terminal wire dodgy means the altenator would not have been charging properly or at all figured it must have been a general electrical issue for 2 systems to be playing up like that Easy fix, good to hear

HICAS problems shouldnt affect the engine/engine ECU so perhaps you have a bigger problem? Have you done anything at all to the car recently? did tthe battery cable look O.K? If its a standard ECU can you get any fault codes out of it? Sounds like more than one issue here, and I would look at whatever is causing the engine issue first as if its something electrical it may be shared with the HICAS ECU and fixing it will fix both problems

That just looks like water marks to me. High calcium in the water I think? Don't quote me. Something in the water. I used the bore water at my parents house once to wash my car, never again. Left water marks everywhere and had to buff them out. I wouldnt stress and go starting shit with the place that where you washed your car, listen to Hadouken's advice, Mine was similar to that and it just buffed off (with a mechanical buffer and some good polish) From memory, hand polishing didnt achieve a great deal. Just take it to a car detailing place and at least ask their advice. Honestly I dont think its that bad, might be a good excuse to blow $200-$300 on a full detail to have it looking like brand new

recirc adapters do exist for those BOV's, not sure if they are different depending on what BOV you have but this will get you started: http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_kw=HKS+PUMP+BACK+Recirculation+Fitting+SSQV+1+-+4+Blow+off+Valve+29MM+71002-AK004 easy and cheap enough if you want to keep the BOV

My tuner used the link knock box with the headphones not using it through software or the ecu.

No way will it be the crankshaft locking up. You should be slipping the belt long before that happens. I drove an 89 corolla once were the ac compressor died and siezed up and it still ran Sounds like a problem with the idle, like its not compensating for the little bit of extra load from the engine What ECU and mods do you have?

My tuner uses the vipec knock sensors. Says they are great and he picks up knock long before anyone can hear it, even on a dyno Think the link one is essentially the same. If I get a knock box. Think I will get the link

If its so secret...... why is it on the internet?

533 RYC's suggestion is great if its easy enough to get hold of all of that stuff, but for a more low budget soloution you can use an oven and a freezer. Overnight in the freezer and 20mins in the oven (at about 100 degrees or so) should give a good enough temperature difference to make it alot easier Liquid nitrogen is awesome shit. Creating a temperature difference between the 2 is definently a great way to do it, because if its done right it usually literally falls together. However if the specialist you've taken it to says he cant see any signs of incorrect installation, then you may have to look for other issues before installing another bearing. It seems to me like if you are having problems with 1 bearing then something is wrong on that hub or shaft, if its a problem with 2 or more, then it might be an inferior bearing (this is rulling out a bad install) Bearings arent that fragile when installing, As long as you are hitting/pressing the inner race and not the bearing cage, you shouldnt do any damage to it

Yeah havent had any problems with strange oil pressure readings. They are pretty much spot on where I would expect them to be. Originally was going to just tee it off the block but this seemed smarter in case anything ever went wrong its so easy to fix I've painted everything since then so its all black now bar the braided line, can just see it in this photo, it blends in pretty well now

Great having dampers on the bonnet very happy with them

I don't want to be negative. But it sounds like you are having a problem, then you immediatly jump on here asking questions, then you go look at stuff and find problems. Please go and have a proper look over everything and test things out properly first

I remote mounted my 2 oil pressure sensors. Just used a -4 braided line (I think it was -4 or -3) and put a fitting in the block and a T piece and the 2 sensors up the top. Pretty much the same as above, but remote mounting it for easier access. Probably not as good for oil temp, but works for oil pressure

The part numbers that appear in the pictures are not the full part numbers. they are just an abreviated part number Mick: Turn the A/C Unit to recirculate (the light should come on) When the unit is off but it is still in fresh air mode, it allows some air to enter the car from outside the car. Because the air is still passing through the evaporator/heater and the mix door is still doing whatever your previous temperature was set at (but the compressor is not running to cool the evaporator down) you will get warm air through the heater. Turning the temp down closes the heater side of the mix door and the air should just be around ambient temp

The Tacho's were an option on Silver skylines, had to pay an extra 99c for it to be enabled. I feel like Taco's now

Yeah think they got Leightons contract out there. Also got the contract at South Walker AFAIK? Just know that Leightons are losing an awful lot of contracts

Yeah not looking good, I have march off now so will give it a run then. Probably going tomorrow to look at dyno run. But will see how motivated I feel lol. Been struggling lately

It did appear in 1 car Tommy Kaira M30