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I chased a noise for ages, had a weird noise from the front of the car. Checked everything and couldnt find a thing Then one day with the car over a pit, I noticed that for some reason there is a bracket on each front hub that holds the brake line and both had no bolt in them. These had been hitting against the hub. Funny how I never noticed it the first time I looked

499-X001 Looks like the proper Part number from APEXi http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bproduct.php?type=electronics&subtype=Engine%20Management&brand=Apex&series=APEXi&name=Power+FC+Option+Part&fromlink=1 I sold my PFC boost control kit or I could have a look what it said.

I'd use it on a MLS head gasket. But if you have been running the engine with it like this for a while now then chances are the damage is either already done, or you wont have a problem Seriously.... the bolt is not that hard to put in, just do it

They look like they are interchangeable All starters here 23300-08U11 looks like its from a 94-95 model Skyline is the only difference between the 2 the number of teeth? If so it doesnt mean it wont work, there might be either a different gear reduction or the 08U15 superseded the 08U11 with more teeth to make it a bit more efficent or wear better

Link to the map sensor you bought? I can't find one that looks anything like the Apexi one on their Ebay page, and thats about all I can find

Sweet, I need my carbon fibre spoiler bits lol

It could be anything really. I have a clunk that only appears in the wet and its from the Diff bushes. I noticed it after I did all 4 diff bushes and we got a bit of rain, it disappears when it dries out I know its not much help but just shows it could be anything, even if you have replaced it with something new. Because you think its not a new problem since the coilovers it makes it a bit harder. The Coilover bolts/nuts are all done up nice and tight? coilover bottom mounts on the right way? (They do only go one way, but usually they wont fit the other anyway) Sorry its not much help

yeah i think you need the apexi sensor or you will have issues. Because you cant tell it what sensor you are using (on the boost control side anyway), it will assume its the apexi sensor. So anything different to that will not work properly

Have you got a multimeter on the battery and checked the voltages with the car running and stationary? Its a good place to start, especially seen as Stagea batteries are in the engine bay (if I remember correctly?) you should see voltages being output by your Altenator fairly well. If it seems a bit odd you may have a wiring or earth issue. Just get a multimeter and check battery voltages first before doing anything, you may end up saving yourself alot of money

You cannot re-scale the MAP sensor, if its giving you false readings then there is either a problem with the MAP sensor, the wiring, or the Power FC itself. If you have tried a different MAP sensor then it is unlikely to be that (are you using the right one?) So that leaves either a wiring issue or an internal Power FC problem Easy enough to check the wiring, put a meter from one end to the other checking for minimal resistance between each end of the wire If this fails it may be a problem with the Power FC I take it you have checked the connections to the MAP sensor? It would be a bit odd for there to be something causing this with the car off, but might pay to unplug the boost feed to the sensor and just hold it in free air. You could also check nothing is stuck in the map sensor inlet but I would be very suprised if this was the problem

Yeah I leave mine on there for that reason ^^^^ I searched not long ago for these and they are still available from amayama. Not sure on shipping but its not overly expensive Link Here Shipping might be the killer but if you wanted to replace it with a new one, its still probably not going to be to bad

Yes indeed you need a thermostat. I had issues with HEL when I bought one of their oil cooler kits. I went specifically with it because it was a good quality setrab cooler and had a thermostat. They sent a kit over from the UK and when I got it the cooler had a large dint/gouge in it and the sandwich plate was just a normal one with no thermostat. I emailed them about it and sent a photo of the cooler and they said "is it leaking", to which I replied "does it matter? it doesnt look brand new to me", reluctantly they agreed to replace the cooler And when I asked about the oil cooler they said "We sent a normal one because of hotter temperatures in Australia the thermostat is not needed" which is complete crap. The thermostat is there to warm the oil up to operating temp quicker, not to keep the oil cooler then it would be without one. HEL make a good product but their service (at least from the UK division) is hopeless.

My bet is it does not have a thermostat. The Grex Sandwhich plate does from memory, not sure what the best option would be cant comment on the kit being either good or bad

First of all if its a 1994 model, its not a series 2 Are you sure its not pinging up the top? not sure what mods it has? Gearbox problem could just be old/crappy oil, but not ruling out a bigger problem. Sounds a bit like it could just be oil but

Your tuner is the best one to ask because he can physically check and adjust it to suit. Mine is 4500rpm from memory

New site looks good Stao My SS2 made 270rwkw on the dyno the other day, but I believe it has an exhaust restriction from what my tuner said and the dyno sort of backed that up. power stops climbing and starts dropping before redline. Going to check the Cat isnt restricting the exhaust and if so will chuck a new one on and get a touch up tune and should be a winner. The Cat is a ceramic high flow cat and has been on for about 5 years so its probably due for replacement anyway. Very happy with the turbo anyway, hopefully thre is just a small exhaust restriction and it will feel even better soon. I'll try and get a video of it soon if I can

I've never seen that one before ^ something different

Hope my Carbon turns up soon. Dying to get the wing carbon fibred up to finish it off

And much more current then you will find in your fuse box in your car Some people are lucky and get away with welding with everything still connected, but for the small amount of effort it takes to unplug stuff, its not worth the risk

Remember that some ECU's require a 5V power source for sensors and dont generally like higher voltages then that. OHMS law proves that voltage is proportional to current. Voltage goes up, current goes up

Think about it, Your shorting a battery accross the terminals. Basically you are bypassing everything between the positive and negative circuit in the battery. The only damage will be to your ratchet. Unplugging sensitive electrics when welding is a good practice to do, in theory if you have the earth lead close to where you are welding (and provided it isnt near an ECU etc) then the chances of damaging it are minimised Because the circuit wants to take the shortest route to the earth lead. So if the earth lead is at the back of the car and you are welding on the front reo bar, you can imagine that the circuit is much more likely to join with the ECU circuit then if you have the Earth lead closer to the welding area. Having said that, I would never weld on a car without unplugging ECU's etc because its alot of current to pass through the chassis Shorting across the battery terminals is not much different to shorting from the positive to the chassis (because the Battery negative goes to a nearby Chassis earth anyway) The most likely thing you will damage is the battery. This is a bit more of an issue if the battery is in the boot, has been through some charging cycles and there is hydrogen gas around. Arcing the terminals can result in battery explosion. I've seen plenty of horrible photos of people messing with batteries in dump trucks/dozers where this has happened and the battery is a mangled wreck. Summary: Shorting battery terminals, not advisable but generally doesnt end in disaster Welding with ECU's plugged in: No

The Bolt is: 13012-75T00 The Washer is: 13013-60U01 Do you have the spring? It is: 13072-45V20 You already have the cover and cover bolts from memory, and the O-ring as well I'm guessing so that should be it This is how it all looks:

Still appears every so often. Only seems to happen when the car gets hot but is still pretty hard to predict. Think ill just have to meter the circuit and see if there is a wiring issue. But like I said it was never an issue before the engine swap. Have pulled the HICAS ecu out to have a look at the pins and plugs but it all looks brand new

What exactly are you comparing your car to? Mine feels plenty tight enough with softish coilovers, subframe collars, a couple of bushes changed to polyurethene ones and a front strut brace. I think once I do sway bars ill be pretty damn happy with it, will be very nice for a street car Does the car have any previous accident damage? Im not sure how tight you want it to be so not sure if its just something not quite right with the car or its just not quite at the standard you want

The bolt and washer? Not on me, my laptop isnt with me atm