89CAL

If you can get one new for $200, I wouldnt go 2nd hand. I've seen plenty of used ones with cracked rubber. Its just general wear after near 20 years $200 is cheap for a new OEM one

I never said 'it will leak' go back and look. It was more of a 'for the sake of 3 bolts you will be disappointed if it leaks' I'm not sure what HG OP is going to run, but if its an MLS then it wont re-seal if the coolant leaks, and I wouldnt fully trust a standard HG to re-seal after having coolant between it. I was never saying it would definently, 100% happen, but I honestly dont think it is that much effort. If you could get them out to pull the head off, you can put them back in.

Whats ur psn name? Think I can add you into the crew for some reason I seem to get alot of requests and didnt think I had the right clearance to accept. But I'll give it a go anyway

Yeah cause it will seal real good with slippery coolant between it.... If yours is not a newly assembled engine then its not an issue. As the op is putting a head back on the block, im assuming he is using a new headgasket. It is more important on a new headgasket as far as im concerned. The bolts arent that hard to get if you are putting a bare head on but if youve left all the manis etc on its a bit harder Look at the design of the headgasket and where the small bolts are. Nissan wouldnt put them there if they werent needed........

Its not that simple. If the timing fluctuates it can create a little bit more vacuum. Going off the boost gauge might work but I dont believe its definetive. Do you know what it sits at with 100% positively no leaks?

I thought there was a DIY on doing the centre bearing floating around here somewhere. You can by them from just jap I think I know a mate did a centre bearing on his 32 gtst a few years ago. Never complained about it being a crap job so cant be to bad

If you are putting a new gasket it, I would strongly suggest putting these bolts in. They are there to prevent the outer coolant ports from leaking out the head gasket. Better off to do up 3 'Pain in the ass' bolts now then have your headgasket leak and have to pull all the head bolts back out to replace it I'm not saying it will leak, but on a new head gasket I wouldnt take the chance BTW: They are 6mm bolts not 10mm bolts

Have you got the gasket/rubber and spacer washers for the CAS? the proper ones must be used But you may have solved your problem. Hopefully its as easy as that

I havent had mine dynoed yet, but my tuner thinks over 300rwkw, less than 350. It is a fair range but guessing is hard. I was aiming around 320 and I think it will get that. The balancer looks fine, the belt is straight and spins nicely, everything looks good? I bought mine at the start of last year Last time I read the thread, some issues were popping up while ross still owned it, now he has sold the company the issues have been/are being sorted.

Im running a metal jacket with all the belts. No problems at all

Im confused. You mean centre bearing?

$250? Last time I looked they were more than $400

The Ross Metal Jackets have a power steering belt groove? I run one on my RB25, all good so far If the stock ones weren't so expensive Id say go for one of them, but for a little bit more you can go a Ross balancer

Try Holden parts. They still stock some rb30 parts or should be able to give you the part number

I do, have been pretty slack the past few days but

Download PC Link G4 from the site. It comes with the base maps. Some of the sensors are in the wrong input and output slots but the help file tells you where they need to go

F$#@Kin miners

These are +30ish offsets: Dont think the ones above are -4

By far the cheapest thing would be to buy a second hand rb20det box. If you have the money go an rb25det box conversion

From memory its the implosion of the air bubbles that causes the issue. This is going back a bit but I think the air in the bubble gets superheated around the cylinder walls then when it implodes and has an immediate temperature drop its not good at all. But anyway, seen as I cant remember 2nd year tafe from a few years ago I wont say that what I have said is fact But as GTSBoy has said, running high glycol concentrations is pointless. My last post was slightly ill informed on the glycol side but this was only because ive never needed to research it as I have never had any cooling issues, either with water or premixed coolant which is all ive ever used. I work on heavy mining equipment which runs premixed PGXL coolant in sometimes 50ish degree ambient air temps and no breeze and they rarely have problems unless its caused by something else (e.g radiator blockage) I replaced my viscous fan hub today because it was getting up around 90 degrees when you came to a standstill and without even plugging it in to a laptop I know its made a difference. Dont remember my fan ever making so much noise driving around. So OP keep in mind that if your temps seem normal at speed and higher when parked, you most likely have an airflow issue

Part number isnt right from what I've found have a look here

Mine fluttered with an AFM, had the bov plumbed straight into the intake pipe at 90 degrees, not facing the turbo as recommended. Never had any issues Mine didnt flutter like crazy because I softened the bov but when it did it was fine

If you need to increase the concentration of glycol, you are really just bandaiding the problem. And a higher boiling point is kinda irrelevant, because if glycol boils at 197 degrees, you cant honestly tell me you want your engine getting anywhere near that hot anyway. If the car is hitting 110 then you have a problem. And even distilled water will barely be poiling at this point under 1 bar of pressure I ran around with pure distilled water in my new engine for the first 2 weeks with no issue, the corrosion inhibiting properties of coolants is why we use it. To me, there is no point raising the boiling point if you never want the car to run over 100 degrees c. Im sure a stronger concentrate of glycol must have a disadvantage that would outweigh the advantage of higher boiling point

I just gently cut a groove in them so I could unscrew them. It's just solder on the screws from memory, but I had trouble getting it to melt off the screws

Well I think if you could easily have got the housing off it would make it much easier to clean. You would have to been able to clean the whole exducer, all of the internals of the exhaust housing and anything else that you might want to at the time But cleaning it while it being together saves possible damage to the exhaust wheel