89CAL

Dont think im going to bother buying gt6. Will wait till a ps4 version comes out..... when I get a ps4

Whats going on? Everyone stopped playing? I need some crew members to run rampage with Cargobobed someones car to the roof of a highrise today. Quite funny. He ended up blowing me up at the last minute but

Mine did 9.9L/100km on the highway once. Best trip to a fuel station ever but this was back in 200rwkw days

Get 2 x ring open end spanners around the same size (eg 14 + 15mm), put the ring end on the bolt and then use the 15mm spanner ring end inside the 14mm open end to piggyback the spanner and then yank it. Any decent spanner should handle this. Im assuming you have limited room. If not then long breaker bar or short breaker bar with some pipe on it and pull They are tight, but the spanner thing always works for me in limited space

If it has just light rust its fine to clean it up a bit. Honing it with a small hone would be best if you wanted to go buy one Mine just had light surface rust near the end where the piston was not running. I gave it a light cleanup and it probably would have been OK to run again but decided to go get it refurbed. They can be reconditioned alot cheaper then buying a new one so no need to throw it in the bin unless its completely f**ked. They can re-sleeve it anyway. Mine was going to be sleeved for $50 but turned out it was fine for just a hone, even after id cleaned it up

A proper intake temp sensor is best fitted on the intake manifold (like a gtr) However I didnt know this was a stock sensor so makes sense I guess if it normally went in the side of the airbox. I thought someone had added this later (moving it from the intake manifold) hence my statement. Sorry for the confusion

Im sorry, but why did you start a thread asking this and then go buy a non direct fitting pump?

It may have jammed. Mine did this not long ago If so take it to a brake shop and get them to re-kit it or sleeve it if its to far gone Should be able to push the internals out and give the inside a light sand if its not to bad. Then if the seal is still ok you should be right to re-use it

Silly to have an intake temp sensor there. Air will heat up and cool down (through intercooler) before it gets to the engine Not sure why someone would have put one there

My Tomei was direct drop in to the R33, no cutting no changing anything, just unplug the old one, plug in the new one. Easiest thing ever

Haha thatll do it. Yeah just trying to work out what the issue is. Seems a bit odd because as you said, NPC clutch failures are pretty rare when treated right

I got new ones from Pedders, had them in stock, have a grease nipple on the bottom. Havent had an issue at all

I think if you are dead set on getting cams, then go for the baby 256 cams. Seen as you have a larger turbo you dont want to go losing your bottom end so you definently dont want to get a cam that loses the VCT I'm not sure how worthwhile cams will actually be with your setup though

Link goes nowhere. Think because it looks like a mobile link Mine is setup like this and the port from the wastegate is the normally open port (If you blow through that port on the solenoid it should come out the middle port) This is how the Link ECU/Solenoid works anyway, so that if the solenoid fails its in a failsafe position that will allow the wastegate to open (at spring pressure)

I was doing about 12L/100km when I first got my car tuned at 250rwkw It started to get worse over the next 2 years, but was still getting about 14L/100km around town before I pulled the engine out. Found out the other day the engine that came out was a little (not to bad) unhealthy so might have had something to do with the drop in economy I live in a smaller city, Theres not too much start stop traffic, but still a little. I think 20L/100km is a bit crazy. Tune might need a bit of work in the cruise cells, or your driving style might need a change Can't comment too much on E85, I know they use more fuel then 98 but not sure how much

Tomei/Nismo/HKS, all the same pump. All direct replacement

Yeah as above. Just trying to remember what lines go were. I had mine hooked up wrong for ages and it wasnt letting the fuel tank breathe real well. I think one line goes to the tank (sounds like that one is connected), 1 goes to the throttle body vac port (cooler side of TB), one goes to the intake manifold, and I think one is just a vent near the wheel arch? Not sure about the 4th line

Is there a coolant leak or oil leak into the clutch area at all? Seems odd your having these troubles. My recon NPC clutch feels really good and just as bitey as always

Wastegate line should be fed from as close to the turbo outlet as possible to the actuator. I think the vac line you have pictured (coming from the intake tube to the turbo) is for the stock boost solenoid and was blocked off on mine The BOV needs a feed from the intake manifold because you need the vacumm under closed throttle to help lift the BOV off its seat

I dont think you needed to start a new thread. You got some answers in the other thread. I honestly think its either a problem with the way the gauge is wired in or a problem with the gauge/sensor itself. If it is a boost gauge made for use in a car then there is no reason why you should need to setup something to keep 12v at the gauge while cranking. All cars suffer a drop in voltage when cranking so I would find it highly unusual for the manufacturers of the gauge you have to have overlooked this I have 3 electronic gauges in my car, all 3 stay on while cranking and I dont have any issues. So I think you should follow some of the advice given in the other thread and have a look at your setup

If your set on going stock internals then at least get some ARP studs and a good head gasket

Would have been good about 8 months ago. But im done playing engines now lol

I need the handle or extension for the jack. Cant remember which one lol

Did you get into drug dealing or something Phil? You still selling carbon bits?

Need more carbon lol Once you start you cant stop.....